Poulan 3400-3700-4000 fuel line replacement revisited

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The only problem with using the screw for the vent line is without the double barb fitting in the line inside the tank is that the 3/16" OD line is too small for the vent hole in the tank. The barb is needed to swell the line to fit tight in the hole.

I found that you will need a 117x211 line to fit the vent hole without a barb.
 
Luckily enough my barb was still in the tank but my duck bill was a melted ball of goo. My 3700 started and ran like a champ today after turning the high side back about a 1/8, the plug was black as tar from being so rich.
 
Vent barb part number

I'm going through a PP375 and a PP335 right now. Found the barb in the PartsTree schematic for the 335.
Barb is PN 530024475. I think it's only $1.03 !!
 
I just did this job on my 3400 last weekend. Used 3/32"ID-3/16"OD line as that's what I had. Worked fine. The old lines were there, but hard and brittle. The vent 'double barb' fitting was there, along with the duckbill. It was installed backwards however. It was on top of (outside) the tank with the 'tail' end of the line slipped through the hole into the tank. The saw had "needs repair" written in sharpie on the rear handle. Between the gunked up carb and that backwards vent routing (which would cause a vacuum to build in the tank), I'm not surprised that the saw needed "repair". A carb cleaning and some new lines (plus a good overall degunking and a new spark plug) and it runs strong now. I should have taken a pic of the 'custom' vent routing before fixing it...

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Thank you so much for this post. This is exactly what i need to fix up a Poulan Pro 305 I've been needing to get done for a while.
 
Congrats to you for being able to find this Thread. Btw the PP 305 is a great saw. Same as the Poulan 3000 and with a modded muffler might give a Husky 346XP OE a good run.
Bob
 
One of the hardest things for me was getting the fuel lines attached to the fittings and filters. I purchased Oregon fuel line, same size, from True Value. It seemed impossible at first, but then I decided to try and carefully heat up the ends of the line, stretch out the tips a bit to get it started, and then was able to heat them up a bit again and slide the filter/fittings right in place. Once it cools, and you don't have much time, it shrinks back up super tight.
 
In a tight fit I use a ballpoint pen and heat the line up with a heat gun. I then stretch it over the end of the pen and let it cool. Makes it easier to put the line on the carbor filter.
 
I just did the line in a Craftsman 3.4 and the duck bill was missing now im gonna have to find one soon. All the lines were brittle and cracked. to add to that does this saw have a line into the oil tank? if so im guessing that is also brittle and junk by now. mine leaks bar oil right by the chain catcher any tips? View attachment 308595View attachment 308596
 
I just did the line in a Craftsman 3.4 and the duck bill was missing now im gonna have to find one soon. All the lines were brittle and cracked. to add to that does this saw have a line into the oil tank? if so im guessing that is also brittle and junk by now. mine leaks bar oil right by the chain catcher any tips? View attachment 308595View attachment 308596

Any Poulan or Husqvarna dealer can get you the duckbill valves if they don't already have them in stock. I can help you with the oiler question but let's not sidetrack this thread with that.

Post it in the Poulan thread. .
 
Can do sad news today my favorite saw shop closed their doors. was just there anyways ill have to try someone else now. Was going there to get a duckbill and hoping for some 55/51 covers ah well.
 
Threads like this make Arboristsite so valuable to people like me. Sincere gratitude and appreciation to Modifiedmark and all the others who consolidate and share what they have learned. Does anyone know if there is any move to restore the photos lost in the grand meltdown?
 
Hello mark,
Would be able to some how add the beginning of this thread again with the pictures? None of them are there and I am a definite hands on picture type of guy.


Chris
 
Seems fuel line issues are the fad now days and it seems new members are popping up more and more wanting help with fuel line replacements.

I did a brief how-to on this series of saws before but not thinking ahead I posted it in the Poulan thread where it's now buried in amongst 400 or so pages making it extremely difficult to find when needed.

I know we don't need any more stickies in the chainsaw fourm but maybe at least by starting a new thread on it, it can be found easier with the search function.

I plan on doing a couple other Poulan saw series when time permits like the 25 series and Micro's at least as I know they come up a lot as well.

For now I'll show how I put the new version of Oregon brand fuel lines that is supposed to withstand 30% ethanol in my Poulan 4000. The Poulan 3400 and 3700 use the exact same fuel line setup as well.

Here is the patient my Poulan 4000 that had some ethanol damaged lines on it.

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Outside of a screw driver to remove the top cover and recoil, on the Poulan here are two things that I consider necessary when doing fuel lines on almost all chainsaws.

Some thin gauge stove pipe wire from almost any hardware store and a medium size pair of curved hemostats.

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Remove the air filter cover and filter. Remove the 3 screws holding the cyl cover on then lift and turn the cover to remove it.

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You then need to remove the 4 screws holding the recoil and make note of where the different length screws go. Mainly remember that the shortest one goes in the uppper left corner and the long ones go in the rear by the fuel cap.

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Why can't I see the images
 
Thank you for taking the time and effort to post this, I'm currently working on my first 4000 and you post is very helpful, my fuel lines were entirely disintegrated but the duckbill and barbed fitting were still in the gas tank, now I know where they go. Thank you again.
 

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