Poulan 3400 counter vibe

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My 3400 was a cranky starter even after I cleaned the carb with a USC (and reused the diaphragms and gaskets as I didn't have a kit). Got a kit and put in the new needle, screen, diaphragms and gaskets. Started and ran fine after that. Sometimes we can get away with reusing the soft parts....but it's not a good idea.

The kit you need is K10-HDB.

Totally,totally agree. I never use the existing carb parts. Not worth the aggravation and kits aren't that expensive.
 
OLD POULAN??? series???

...........and then there's the larger displacement 3800, 3700, PP375, PP395, and 4000 Poulans on the same chassis. Not really any heavier than the 3400, and much more beans than the stihl.:cheers:

I just picked up one from a friend not sure what model and cant hardly read the number series appears to be something on the PTO side cover and the starter recoil is missing but have trouble making out what it says... will post up some pics when I get back near the shop its wearing a 20" B& C and the guys grand dad said it would cut circles around a like sized Stihl..........
 
I just picked up one from a friend not sure what model and cant hardly read the number series appears to be something on the PTO side cover and the starter recoil is missing but have trouble making out what it says... will post up some pics when I get back near the shop its wearing a 20" B& C and the guys grand dad said it would cut circles around a like sized Stihl..........

Sounds interesting! Looking forward to the pics.
 
Carbs rebuilt and it starts if I use this sequence that Joe25DA posted in another topic Switch OFF, Choke FULL, Set trigger lock and half, pull 3-4 times. Switch ON, half choke pull till it pops choke off
 
I am wanting to like this saw but its so temper mental. I have checked crank seals, rebuilt carb,new spark plug and air filter and sometimes it just dose not want to start or starts real slow then comes up to idle. Only thing I changed is I went to 40:1 over 50:1

Sent from my MB855 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
 
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if you are sure that the saw has no leaks (not only from the crank seals,check the carb-manifold gaskets as well),then i think that the problem is on the carb,not proper tuning,wrong seting on the needle etc.My 4200-306A need 2-3 pulls when are cold and only one hot.
 
I am wanting to like this saw but its so temper mental. I have checked crank seals, rebuilt carb,new spark plug and air filter and sometimes it just dose not want to start or starts real slow then comes up to idle. Only thing I changed is I went to 40:1 over 50:1

These saws are not known for being tempermental and if yours is then you still have a problem with it.

You should be able to start the saw with the switch on, pull choke all the way out, then pull until it pops, turn choke off, then pull until it starts. If you saw does not do this then there is still a problem with the saw. I have 5 of this series of saws and none of them are tempermental.

When working on a problem like this I will pull the plug upto 10 times just so I can see what is going on inside the engine. You need to know if it is getting fuel or is lean on trying to start it.
 
I am wanting to like this saw but its so temper mental. I have checked crank seals, rebuilt carb,new spark plug and air filter and sometimes it just dose not want to start or starts real slow then comes up to idle. Only thing I changed is I went to 40:1 over 50:1

Sent from my MB855 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

Magnum,
I have about 10 of these saws in this series. They all pretty much start the same way. I had put together a 4000 one time, the odd blue one..;) I did everything I normally do to them, rebuilt carb, fuel lines, tank vent, plug, etc. The dang thing gave me fits. I had the carb apart, I don't know how many times. Tried different plugs, you name it.

When I replaced the fuel lines on this saw, I did not replace the filter. Looked "looked like new" I thought. I eventually changed it with a new filter. That dang saw started right up!:dizzy: All I can say is, don't over look ANYTHING, no matter how small. Like the hight of the metering lever in the carb, filter, vent, and plug. If the H & L needles are set yo one turn out...the thing should start, using the procedure described before.

I wish ya luck with it!! Sounds like your not far off, but there is a fly in ointment somewhere yet.

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Wanted to add, These 3400's aren't known for high compression. Most are in the 130l b. range. But they do need some compression to run. Don't remember if you checked that before or not.
As far as your fuel mix goes. 40:1 will be fine. I used to run mine at 32:1 with the older dino oil. Switched to Synthetic some time ago. I think ModifiedMark runs 50:1 in all his. No problem.

Gregg,
 
Carbs rebuilt and it starts if I use this sequence that Joe25DA posted in another topic Switch OFF, Choke FULL, Set trigger lock and half, pull 3-4 times. Switch ON, half choke pull till it pops choke off

Not sure why you were told to use this starting procedure, but its not a good one. No point in pulling it over with the switch off. If the carb is rebuilt and working properly, that only serves to flood the saw.

These saws are not known for being tempermental and if yours is then you still have a problem with it.

You should be able to start the saw with the switch on, pull choke all the way out, then pull until it pops, turn choke off, then pull until it starts. If you saw does not do this then there is still a problem with the saw. I have 5 of this series of saws and none of them are tempermental.

Exactly the procedure to use on these. I have none that do not work right when doing it this way.
 
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