Poulan Pro 330 muffler mod.

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Thanks for this post. Excellent info and photos. Question: Where can I find a 20 inch bar to fit this saw, like you have in the pic?

That bar can be had from Poulan part# 952-044544.

Another option is
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF+200SLDK041&catID=

If you want to stay with 3/8's chain the K041 mounts are not that plentiful.

I am going to be trying mine with a .325 setup soon. There are lots of bars for that.



4492011 Another member made and sent me those spikes! Great guy and he did a great job.
 
spikes

Thanks for the reply. Those spikes really look great just wishing that there was a part number for those.
 
"If you want to stay with 3/8's chain the K041 mounts are not that plentiful."

I modified the small Husqvarna mount bar from my 262XP, works perfectly with the 68 drive 3/8" chain set-up. It was mentioned someplace, and it's an easy modification, just opening up the oil slightly with a round file.

The 330 is a lot better suited to the 18" bar than the 22". I was cross-cutting some hard maple yesterday that was full of knots, and it was only OK with the 22" set-up. It does a LOT better with the 18" for all types of work, no real need to go on down to .325", IMHO.....Cliff
 
Thanks for this post. Excellent info and photos. Question: Where can I find a 20 inch bar to fit this saw, like you have in the pic?

A small mount husky bar, which I think is a K095 in oregon nomenclature, can easily be modified to fit. I have two on my saws. All you need to do is drill the center of the bar out between the rails where the tensioner holes are. this allows oil to get to the chain through the tensioner holes. If you start with a laminated bar, this is super easy. Drill one hole in front of the tensioner and one behind. What is left in the middle will pop right out.

IMG_2378.jpg


FWIW, if you are buying a bar, I would just buy the right one. I just happened to have a few of these laying around
 
muffler mod on 330

I just done a muffle mod on mine today. I drilled two 3/8 holes and two small holes also, and took out the croos over tube. I left in the spark arrestor to hold the bolts to put in easier. I also had a local chainsaw shop make me a new chain for the 22" bar out of Oregon 72 lg chain, full chisel. I will try it out tomorrow and write about how it done.


The muffler on this saw stock is like trying to blow up a ballon with a twisty straw and being a super bad asthmatic.
 
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Saw tested

I tested my saw today with the new muffler mod and the new chain and it performed better, still could use a little more power. The only thing I cut that lugged it down to almost a stop was some 22" seasoned hickory (hard stuff).
 
Video test?

I took this the other day, lets see if I can get it to show up.

http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/9670/poulanpro330vid.mp4

Well I guess it at least worked that way.

I was trying out the Partner 7000 plus at the same time and really the 330 cut this piece of hard Oak just as well as the 70cc Partner did.

Muffler still isn't all that loud and I may try opening it up a little more later on.
 
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Has anyone compared the 18" 3/8" to the 20" .325 yet?

Once I get to work with mine and make sure the carb is not one of the problem ones...I am going to muff mod it and - I am either going to order the 18" bar or just mod the new GB/Husqvarna .325 bar I got from Amicks. Both will run Woodland Pro round chisel.


Thanks,
2Door
 
Mark are those 330's magnesium crankcases or plastic?
 
They pack a bit of heft, but they are good built saws. With a little work on the muffler and a 20" bar they run real good in the wood. I might be doing a carb switch on mine from the hda 164 to the hda 137 off the super 380.
 
They pack a bit of heft, but they are good built saws. With a little work on the muffler and a 20" bar they run real good in the wood. I might be doing a carb switch on mine from the hda 164 to the hda 137 off the super 380.

Might I ask why your thinking of doing that switch? Are you haveing problems with the 164? The 137 is the same size and just a earlier model of the same carb.
 
yeh it idles funny most of the times, but the change will be a while down the road, other than the carb idling funny i haven't had a probably yet with mine, cuts fine and rev very nice.
 
yeh it idles funny most of the times, but the change will be a while down the road, other than the carb idling funny i haven't had a probably yet with mine, cuts fine and rev very nice.

Try this..

" Note the exact position of the throttle butterfly plate and lower jet apertures, remove the plate and use a 6mm diameter Dremel grinding stone (#932) or rat tail file to cut away a small half moon so that the notch is aligned with the idle pick up hole (the lowest hole in the carb throat). "

be carefull,a little at a time untill idle smooths out.
 
yeh it idles funny most of the times, but the change will be a while down the road, other than the carb idling funny i haven't had a probably yet with mine, cuts fine and rev very nice.

It has a 2 year warranty on it so if there is a problem with it, why not let Poulan fix it for free?

You can find a servicing dealer at PoulanPro.com if you don't know of one already in your area.
 
I opened my diffuser up a little more and I belive that fixed the idle proper, has anyone noticed the hump on the bottom side of the exhaust. It is back from the edge so i'm wondering if removing it would make some more power.
 
I know this is an old thread but i found something interesting. A few hours ago i was tinkering around with my muffler and pulled the sleeve out of the exhaust port and measured to see what difference in size it made. The sleeve cuts 3mm out of the height and 5-6 mm out of the width. I removed the sleeve and cut the top of the diffuser out and it seems to have some more power. Im goning to put it in some wood tomorrow and might try to make my first vid for here.
 
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