Poulan Pro pp5020AV

[HeavyWater]

Hey guys, Im new to the forum and I've used chain saws before but I'm just starting to get very interested in them, I have some questions on my saw, Im looking to make some improvements on my 5020AV, Im looking for a better BAR, current part number 545196102, 20" 3/8-70 QH, is there a better bar out there for this saw? Also I don't have much experience with better chains as I've always only used the chains that came with my saws, Im looking to get more aggressive, but I'm a little hesitant to get anything to wild.... I've read some post and Im thinking if I could I'd like to drop down to a 18 inch bar and a better chain. what do you guys think?

 

[Modifiedmark]

Hey guys, Im new to the forum and I've used chain saws before but I'm just starting to get very interested in them, I have some questions on my saw, Im looking to make some improvements on my 5020AV, Im looking for a better BAR, current part number 545196102, 20" 3/8-70 QH, is there a better bar out there for this saw? Also I don't have much experience with better chains as I've always only used the chains that came with my saws, Im looking to get more aggressive, but I'm a little hesitant to get anything to wild.... I've read some post and Im thinking if I could I'd like to drop down to a 18 inch bar and a better chain. what do you guys think?

I think your wasting your money going to a 18" bar as the saw you have uses a bar mount common to a small mount Husqvarna and a 18" bar only uses 2 less drive links then the 20" on your 5020.

Go to a 16" bar if your wanting to go smaller.

 

[CTYank]

What Mark said.

Why do you want a given length bar? You do know that the stock bar is actually 19", no? I've used the OEM bar on my 5020 for a year plus- the label paint is long gone- and it still works fine. I'd love to know what you consider "better" for a bar.

Shorter bar could help for maneuvering while limbing deciduous trees, but that's why I like the 40 cc RedMax.

The OEM "vanguard" chain still works fine for me. You might look for a non-safety chisel or semi-chisel chain, depending on dirt level anticipated on the wood.

Much more important than all of that, much more important, is to keep the cutters like razors, and the depth gauges .025" to .030" below the cutting edges. If you don't do that, all else is noise. Learn how to properly file a chain- best way IME is a clamp-on guide like Granberg "File-N-Joint" that'll do the depth gauges too. That's the one "stroke-job" that matters here. :cool2:

 

[ncpete]

Just ordered up one of these saws, and I am excited to see another user opting for a shorter bar. In reviewing options for consumer-grade 16" bars from Oregon, I am overwhelmed with the choices. Any thoughts on which model to choose are much appreciated.

 

[Chris J.]

Yes, it's a long thread, but it contains a lot of good information.

Somewhere in it Mark mentions which 16" bar & chain he chose to replace the original 20" b&c.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/192321.htm

 

[Chris J.]

Well, that certainly some digging, but here's the quote from the long 5020 thread.

Well after some investigation, I found that I am the one with egg on my face. I was wrong on the bar mount, this saw does indeed use a K095 mount bar. Here is a picture that I took when I first broke this thing down to inspect it. I am so used to the K041 mounts on these mid sized Poulans I never noticed that the bar does indeed have the K095 style oiler hole in it. I can't belive that I missed that, but this is not a bad thing.

It just so happens I had a 16" 3/8's Power Match in K095 and put it on with a new 60DL Oregon 72LGX chain to try out.

I showed before how wide open the muffler was and how only the outlet was a little small and even though I had my doubts about how much could be gained from a muffler mod I went ahead and tried opening up the outlet a little more. It sure didnt hurt anything but there was no major gains or even noise for that matter. Not at first impression anyway.

Before

After

I ran it a little bit and it run pretty darn good. I tuned it in the wood and checked it in the shop later and it was turning 12700 no load. I had it on the safe side of rich and I'm sure after its broken in, it could be leaned out a hair.

Here are the videos, just remember this is some hard White Oak, so I think it done pretty darn good.

<embed src="http://img717.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=P8wm" width="320" height="260" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/><br/>
<a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Modifiedmark">[More videos from Modifiedmark]</a>

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/3377/8wm.mp4



<embed src="http://img10.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=P2uc" width="320" height="260" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/><br/>
<a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Modifiedmark">[More videos from Modifiedmark]</a>

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/8260/2uc.mp4



<embed src="http://img51.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=Pl4d" width="320" height="260" allowFullScreen="true" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/><br/>
<a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Modifiedmark">[More videos from Modifiedmark]</a>

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/1216/l4d.mp4

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Put a 16" on mine from the get go, never even put the 20" on it. Get a good chain like RSC LGX etc for clean wood or something semi if cutting dirt covered wood.

 

[ncpete]

Yes, it's a long thread, but it contains a lot of good information.

Somewhere in it Mark mentions which 16" bar & chain he chose to replace the original 20" b&c.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/192321.htm

Yup, I spent a lot of time reading that thread last night. Around page 6 I decided I had already stayed up too late. Sorry to have you dig through it to find the other reply you put on here, but THANK YOU!

 

[Chris J.]

Yup, I spent a lot of time reading that thread last night. Around page 6 I decided I had already stayed up too late. Sorry to have you dig through it to find the other reply you put on here, but THANK YOU!

You're welcome, but to be honest I've been meaning to track down that info for my 5020 rebranded as Craftsman.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

5020 16" compared pics beside the 545. Paid $165 to my door for new 5020 with 20". Paid $400 for new 545 PHO to my door.

 

[ncpete]

which model bar did you go with on that? It's funny how, in my opinion, from many angles, the PP looks like a beefier saw than the Husqvarna.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

which model bar did you go with on that? It's funny how, in my opinion, from many angles, the PP looks like a beefier saw than the Husqvarna.

K095 bar

The poulan I think is from a husky 450 with different cylinder etc. The 5020 has husky emblems all over it.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

 

[ncpete]

Those emblems stamped all over the saw I am getting.... (will not select ship to store next time. I would have been just fine paying the extra $13.75) are very re-assuring. Now to see if my local saw shop has a k095 in 16" available.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Ooh, it's a Poulvarna!! Nice saw, the fact that it has so many Husky parts makes it feel like an even better deal. I haven't seen any symbols on it but I wonder if my 4620 is descended from the older Husky saws. If I'm not mistaken many of their homeowner saws from the 90's had the same handle and anti-vibe design and boxy appearance.

 

[Chris J.]

Ooh, it's a Poulvarna!! Nice saw, the fact that it has so many Husky parts makes it feel like an even better deal. I haven't seen any symbols on it but I wonder if my 4620 is descended from the older Husky saws. If I'm not mistaken many of their homeowner saws from the 90's had the same handle and anti-vibe design and boxy appearance.

It's my undestanding that the 4620 is a newer version of the 2750, 2900, & 295 (maybe other models as well?). I don't know if there are any equivalent or very similar Husqvarna models, hopefully some of the Poulan gurus will post their thoughts.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Ooh, it's a Poulvarna!! Nice saw, the fact that it has so many Husky parts makes it feel like an even better deal. I haven't seen any symbols on it but I wonder if my 4620 is descended from the older Husky saws. If I'm not mistaken many of their homeowner saws from the 90's had the same handle and anti-vibe design and boxy appearance.

It's my undestanding that the 4620 is a newer version of the 2750, 2900, & 295 (maybe other models as well?). I don't know if there are any equivalent or very similar Husqvarna models, hopefully some of the Poulan gurus will post their thoughts.

I dont know these saws at all and was given this info when I was working on one for fellow.

Here is what a poulan parts dealer said on ChainsawRepair thread on subject.

Poulan Pro went from the 295 to the 4620. Parts will interchange on the Poulan 2750, 2775, 2900 and P.Pro 295, 315, and 4620. The older of these saws with the black muffler were some good saws. It was originally built as a Partner.

I cut all of the middle part of the reply out and just put a little info. The differences are posted in the original 4620 thread. I also wonder about the Partner part on these early on.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks alot, see my post in the thread "I'm an old Farmhand." Where can I find more info about the 4620?

 

[Modifiedmark]

. It was originally built as a Partner.

This series of saws were Poulan saws, built by Poulan.

Yes there were some Partner saws like the Partner 365-405 that were built on this series of saws but they were relabeled Poulans, just like the lots of other Poulans were rebadged for Partner after the Elux buyouts.

I have never seen any proof otherwise.

 

[cobey]

i got the 16" bar in the mail and full chisel chain put it on and never put the 20" bar back on.
50cc will run the heck out of a 3/8 chain on a 16" bar. the 20 was ok, but the 16 lets it pull harder.
keep the chain sharp and make sure no dust is getting past the air filter, if it does you can put a LITTLE
grease around the sealing serface and that will keep dust out. have cut 25" trees with the 16" bar