Poulan Pro pp5020AV

[cobey]

BTW thanks for the cool 5020 thread Mark!!

 

[ncpete]

Okay, so I finally got my saw today, and I am stoked! This thing is, from the perspective of a homeowner whose prior saw was a 38cc McCullouch with 16" bar, a FREAKING BEAST.

but, it took me WAY too long to start it. I somehow flooded it, right out of the box, which was disappointing. I tried the tricks I was familiar with to no avail. Wrapped up the other work I was doing at the overgrown yard I am clearing, and called it a day. got home, sent my brother who works on a golf course a text, asking what I was doing wrong. He told me to try the following trick:

1. Turn switch off, turn choke off. pull string 10 times.
2. turn switch on, DO NOT choke, pull string 3 more times.

It worked. On the third pull, it started firing, another couple pulls, and it was running right.

However, it won't idle well, I let it run long enough to warm up, and when dropping back to idle, it will stall. Any thoughts?

 

[7sleeper]

Get a dealer to set the carb correctly.

7

 

[ncpete]

Dealer had too long a wait to leave saw there, so today I was out working on that yard again, and saw started just like it was supposed to! 3 pulls on full choke, it burped, moved to half choke, and two pulls she was running strong! Still not the best idle characteristics, but I can live with that until after the shops summer vacation, and I may be done the big project by then, anyways, so I will be able to wait while they have it.

 

[ncpete]

After 6-7 tanks now

Seems my saw is pretty well broken in. Starting is easy now, and it only has an issue idling when starting from a cold start, it will idle for around 15-20 seconds, and kind of drop out, if I haven't already engaged some wood by that time. When warm, I can set the saw down with the brake on while moving some stuff around, and it's never a problem. I haven't yet moved off the 20" bar yet, and sharpened this chain a few times. I like the way it runs, but this does not keep me from wanting bigger and better saws. CAD, it begins.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

ncpete, mine wouldnt idle right out of the box and was a hard starting. Quick carb adjustments and havent touched it since. About the easiest starting saw I have and idles all day now.

 

[ncpete]

ncpete, mine wouldnt idle right out of the box and was a hard starting. Quick carb adjustments and havent touched it since. About the easiest starting saw I have and idles all day now.

Thanks for the confirmation, I am getting the same feedback from most 5020 users. I will have to order the carb adjustment tool next time I have extra $. As it is now, it runs great once warm.

On the way out to sharpen it after yesterday's cutting. Looks like the thunderstorm rolling in will preclude my getting any work done today.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

You can make Redneck tools to do carb adjustments till you get the splined one.

Came up with this one after a few brews. :msp_biggrin:

You will need to pull the black dust protector if it has one to reach H and L. ( I cant remember on this saw)

 

[ncpete]

You can make Redneck tools to do carb adjustments till you get the splined one.

Came up with this one after a few brews. :msp_biggrin:

You will need to pull the black dust protector if it has one to reach H and L. ( I cant remember on this saw)

I tried that trick on another machine that has the shrouded adjustment screws, and all I did is wear out a few different whatchamacallits, so I kind of gave up on it, but that was also an OLD carb in a piece of junk Weedeater hedgetrimmer where the H side was bound up. Low side moved fine, until I stripped the plastic on the H. Did not think about it for this saw. perhaps I will play with that this afternoon.

 

[neoborn]

Can someone tell me what 16" bar and chain I am looking for to fit my new PP5020AV? I see alot of talk about a 16" bar and chain but no specifics, please can someone elighten me, this 20" is way too big

 

[dougand3]

PP5020AV takes an Oregon K095 bar mount (AKA small mount Husqvarna). Clutch sprocket is 3/8" (standard, not LoPro).

Would work:
Prolite 160SLHK095
ProAm 160SFHK095

16= 16". 0 = .050" gauge. so, a 168SFHK095 would be a .058" gauge. Chain and bar gauge must match.

 

[DrewUth]

I read the long thread a few months ago before I became a member. I bout my 5020 back in February, and have used it HARD ever since- I was hired to do some tree work for a friend that does solar panel installations. Aside from occasionally having to fiddle with carb settings, I have no major gripes with this saw and it has been very reliable.

One thing I did do was install a plastic brace between the rear handle and the main body. I found that when I was lifting or pressing down on the saw in a cut, as the anti-vibe mounts flexed it was actually affecting the throttle position while I still had the trigger wide open. It was frustrating until I discovered the cause and eliminated it. With the brace in place I get WOT no matter how I flex the handle. Lastly, my biggest gripe is the stupid airfilter design. Sure- the grease around the edge is an old dirt biker's trick that I use on all my equipment, however the main issue is that it doesn't come with a cleanable foam element. I bought a few replacements and I have modified on of my original ones with a foam element glued into the plastic frame, and its pretty good but not great.

 

[neoborn]

Drew can you post a pic to your brace? I would love to see.

 

[DrewUth]

Photos attached. Very simple piece of plastic (I believe from an MX fender), large pop rivets holding it to the engine case and two small screws holding it to the handle. Works perfectly, has held up under very hard use for the past 6 months. Best mod I have done to this saw so far, however I did do a simple muffler mod to it last night and I am anxious to see how it performs. The garage feel is great, it really barks now!

 

[ncpete]

any pics of the muff mod?

 

[DrewUth]

My apologies for not taking photos during the process, no excuse for that! There were some neat looking indentations on either side of the muffler. I simply made a cut across what would be the mouth, then heated the exact are I wanted to bend out with a propane torch, and used a screwdriver to pry it out gently. Probably could have been done without the torch, but you are more likely to bend the exact spot you want and not the surrounding area if you heat it up red.

Haven't gotten to saw with it yet, but fired it up in the shop and it seems to have snappier throttle response. I can't wait to bury it in a log and hear it really scream now.

 

[neoborn]

Do the muffler mods make the saw alot louder? Pros / Cons? Is this usually the process, cutting a small area of metal away etc? Links etc are appreciated.

 

[DrewUth]

It is slightly louder, but far from obnoxiously so. The only Con I can see is if you were sawing somewhere that The Man might come up and check your equipment for proper spark arresting screens. Pros are that the saw breaths a bit better, resulting in snappier throttle response and a bit more power over all with some higher RPM capabilities.

Regarding a "usual" process, I imagine that it differs from saw to saw, muffler to muffler. I did't really remove any material, just made a cut/slice into the side and then "pried" a U-shaped area up/out a bit by slipping a flat screwdriver into the cut I made. My main goal was to not go crazy and do too much, and also not to do anything that wasn't reversible. If I wasn't happy with my modification, I could tap the portion I pried out back in and tack weld or solder/braze the cut and be back to stock.

 

[Beck-45]

Alright guys. Did a muffler mod on my poulon pro 5020av. Sorta copied DrewUth. Great idea Drew. Fired up and tuned and yeah! Definatly improves performance and response. Gonna try it when i head up to camper during 4th of july.