challenger
Cheese is good.
I really hate to post about this saw again but I am desperate. I am ground zero post hurricane Florence and I need a working chainsaw that is lighter than my dolmar 120si or my partner 500.
I completely rebuilt this saw (labeled as a Dayton) a couple of years ago. New cylinder, piston, rings etc. Essentially everything but the case and crank. I also either rebuilt or got a brand new carb. I had it running fairly well after rebuilding it. What I mean by fairly well is that I always seem to have to hold my tongue just right in order to start it and keep it idling like a decent saw should. Now, after starting to clean up all this hurricane wood I can't keep it running. I will list below some symptoms:
Doesn't start easily and once started doesn't stay running and is subsequently hard or impossible to restart. Sometimes ether will help sometimes not.
With no start WITH ether I figured no spark BUT I do get spark and the plug isn't fouled and actually looks very good.
It starts and runs best without the carb cover on so I thought maybe the excessive chain oiling was blocking fresh air. I emptied the bar oil but still get bad results with the cover on. The filter is not clogged with debris or oil.
I notice a lot fuel spraying from the carb when tuning the high rpm needle. This is the case if I have the saw running full out and smooth or full out and out of adjustment. I'm thinking that seeing the fuel spray is normal? Fwiw I see liquid gas coming out of the brass orifice at the opening of the carburetor. Is this right?
I'm using new gas and amsoil Saber 100:1 mixed at 50:1.
Now for some theories about what to do:
Get a more tacky bar oil than the Ace bar oil I'm using so it isn't running out of the saw (and potentially ruling the fresh air???)
Tear into the carb AGAIN (can a carb spew fuel through the high nozzle even with the high needle adjusted lean??? )
I'm tempted to take this saw and smash the **** out of it has me so frustrated. At the same time I m so ****** stubborn that I hate to be beaten by it.
I am seeking a logical, thorough and systematic troubleshooting program to help me with this saw. The other two saw are just too big for almost all the stuff I do around the house so I keep them in a storage unit. The 25DA does everything I need to do if/when it runs. It's chain is sharp as hell and it cuts like mad. It also burns my ass like a midget with a lighter when I have to **** with it. BTW I store it dry and run the fuel out of it. Dang! This reminds me! I shouldn't assume that doing so still guarantees I don't have a fuel delivery problem. I'll check it tomorrow but am still requesting information and input from the knowledgeable folks here.
Many thanks.
Hurricanes really blow[emoji16].
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
I completely rebuilt this saw (labeled as a Dayton) a couple of years ago. New cylinder, piston, rings etc. Essentially everything but the case and crank. I also either rebuilt or got a brand new carb. I had it running fairly well after rebuilding it. What I mean by fairly well is that I always seem to have to hold my tongue just right in order to start it and keep it idling like a decent saw should. Now, after starting to clean up all this hurricane wood I can't keep it running. I will list below some symptoms:
Doesn't start easily and once started doesn't stay running and is subsequently hard or impossible to restart. Sometimes ether will help sometimes not.
With no start WITH ether I figured no spark BUT I do get spark and the plug isn't fouled and actually looks very good.
It starts and runs best without the carb cover on so I thought maybe the excessive chain oiling was blocking fresh air. I emptied the bar oil but still get bad results with the cover on. The filter is not clogged with debris or oil.
I notice a lot fuel spraying from the carb when tuning the high rpm needle. This is the case if I have the saw running full out and smooth or full out and out of adjustment. I'm thinking that seeing the fuel spray is normal? Fwiw I see liquid gas coming out of the brass orifice at the opening of the carburetor. Is this right?
I'm using new gas and amsoil Saber 100:1 mixed at 50:1.
Now for some theories about what to do:
Get a more tacky bar oil than the Ace bar oil I'm using so it isn't running out of the saw (and potentially ruling the fresh air???)
Tear into the carb AGAIN (can a carb spew fuel through the high nozzle even with the high needle adjusted lean??? )
I'm tempted to take this saw and smash the **** out of it has me so frustrated. At the same time I m so ****** stubborn that I hate to be beaten by it.
I am seeking a logical, thorough and systematic troubleshooting program to help me with this saw. The other two saw are just too big for almost all the stuff I do around the house so I keep them in a storage unit. The 25DA does everything I need to do if/when it runs. It's chain is sharp as hell and it cuts like mad. It also burns my ass like a midget with a lighter when I have to **** with it. BTW I store it dry and run the fuel out of it. Dang! This reminds me! I shouldn't assume that doing so still guarantees I don't have a fuel delivery problem. I'll check it tomorrow but am still requesting information and input from the knowledgeable folks here.
Many thanks.
Hurricanes really blow[emoji16].
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
