Premature bar wear mystery on new MS 661 C-M

[IMSkywalker]

1st. If it cuts to one side your chain needs to be properly sharpened. One side is sharper than the other. 2nd. Your bar has a burr on the bottom because you’re pushing on the saw rather than the chain feeding itself through the wood. That’s the second indication your chain is dull.

Thank you for the reply. I wondered the same thing. However, the teeth were "sticky" sharp on both sides with no damaged teeth. Also, the burr is only on one side. I would think pushing the saw would burr both sides. I did flip the bar and using the same chain cuts laser straight with large chips. I don't need to push this saw it cuts oak like it's a softwood.

 

[Trdoldtreecutter]

Well, one things for sure, it’s getting hot. Lots of things can cause it. If your dogged in on every cut it’s going to make a difference from a guy using more of the tip. If those trees have blown over, there’s likely some grit in the bark that’s not gonna help. I know when we work a blow down patch, we chip the bark off on the butt cut. Flooded areas will be the same even if they’re still standing. If your dogged in you can definitely make things hot with a little pressure on a semi sharp chain

 

[IMSkywalker]

Does anybody know normal oil consumption for a MS 661c with oil control set to "E"?
There is approximately 1/2 a tank of oil remaining after running most of a tank of fuel. I my 3 fuel refills (top off, not empty) I've just topped off the oil when refueling without paying attention to the quantity used.
This would help me determine if the Ematic oil system is outputting correctly. However, is the output being correctly channeled to the bar?

 

[RED-85-Z51]

Does anybody know normal oil consumption for a MS 661c with oil control set to "E"?
There is approximately 1/2 a tank of oil remaining after running most of a tank of fuel. I my 3 fuel refills (top off, not empty) I've just topped off the oil when refueling without paying attention to the quantity used.
This would help me determine if the Ematic oil system is outputting correctly. However, is the output being correctly channeled to the bar?

I don't have a 661 but i have a couple other Stihls with 25" bars i cam do the 10 second test you did and see how they produce

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

 

[PV Hiker]

if you are comfortable with your dealer you bought the saw from, take all this information you have collected and pay them a visit. If dealer is sharp then im sure you'll get to the bottom of things.

Could be as simple as a defective bar from the factory they'll swap out....

 

[Trdoldtreecutter]

The oil adjustment is there for different bar lengths. Someone else posted that the fancy injector hole can be drilled out if it’s not giving good results. Doesn’t hurt anything and in your case might solve the problem if/when you replace it which is probably your best option at this point imo. Once them rails are toast, they can be ground but they never seem to last.

 

[SteveSr]

1st. If it cuts to one side your chain needs to be properly sharpened. One side is sharper than the other. 2nd. Your bar has a burr on the bottom because you’re pushing on the saw rather than the chain feeding itself through the wood. That’s the second indication your chain is dull.

^ This!

 

[Short timer]

Does anybody know normal oil consumption for a MS 661c with oil control set to "E"?
There is approximately 1/2 a tank of oil remaining after running most of a tank of fuel. I my 3 fuel refills (top off, not empty) I've just topped off the oil when refueling without paying attention to the quantity used.
This would help me determine if the Ematic oil system is outputting correctly. However, is the output being correctly channeled to the bar?

You need to punch in the limiting pin like it explains in the owners manual so you can turn the Oiler up to max. This is more EPA ********, they’d rather you burn up your bar than splatter a little bar oil on the forest ground

I explained earlier how to do this. The red arrow points to the limiting pin that needs to be knocked in. You’ll see a dramatic increase in oil output once you do this. You’re running it at half output in hardwood, not good.

Then go get a new bar and chain and keep it tensioned properly and sharpened properly.

 

[SteveSr]

Also keep in mind that the MS661 is a very powerful saw so there is a tendency for the operator to use this "extra" power to force your way through logs with a dull chain. This can lead to the problems that you have noticed. If the saw won't pull itself through the wood the chain needs attention.

If your bar groove width measurements are correct either the rails have been splayed (bent), which can be fixed or worn from lack of oil and exposure to grit (dirt). If it is wear the bar is toast as others have said.

 

[BradSt]

Does anybody know normal oil consumption for a MS 661c with oil control set to "E"?
There is approximately 1/2 a tank of oil remaining after running most of a tank of fuel. I my 3 fuel refills (top off, not empty) I've just topped off the oil when refueling without paying attention to the quantity used.
This would help me determine if the Ematic oil system is outputting correctly. However, is the output being correctly channeled to the bar?

1/2 tank of oil to 1 tank of fuel sounds about right, with it in the E setting. With the pin pushed in and oiler at max, there is still some oil left after a full tank of fuel, but not much.

If this were my saw, I'd get a new bar and chain, push the pin in, set it to max oiling, and run the saw for a couple of minutes. Then do an "oil spray test", and see if you have different results. If you see a lot more oil on the paper, start doing some cutting. Check for chain stretch, and any abnormal bar wear after a handful of cuts. Keep cutting, as long as you don't notice anything weird. When the tank of fuel is empty, you should be down to a few ounces of oil in the oil tank, if the oiler is outputting correctly.

If the wood is remotely dirty, use 33RM chain, not 33RS. The RM lasts significantly longer between sharpenings. You do not want to force a dull chain. Not saying you did, but it can cause excessive wear. If you're not seeing large chips, the chain needs attention. Your existing RS chain is still probably salvageable, but I'd run new chain/new bar for now.

 

[Westboastfaller]

It shouldn’t be sagging on the bottom like that, especially cold.

It gets tighter hot and loose when things cool.
Most chain throws happen after a short stop, like after a fuel up if you are not mindful of this

 

[Short timer]

It gets tighter hot and loose when things cool.
Most chain throws happen after a short stop, like after a fuel up.if you are not mindful of this

You tension your chains like that cold? With the drive link almost out of the bar?

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Does anybody know normal oil consumption for a MS 661c with oil control set to "E"?
There is approximately 1/2 a tank of oil remaining after running most of a tank of fuel. I my 3 fuel refills (top off, not empty) I've just topped off the oil when refueling without paying attention to the quantity used.
This would help me determine if the Ematic oil system is outputting correctly. However, is the output being correctly channeled to the bar?

That's not right. oil tank should be about empty along with fuel. My 661 throws all sorts of oil. Even with a 42" running 52AJ in 40+" Eucalyptus it oils fine. Something is clogged somewhere. have you checked the ports on the bar for crud? Same on the saw...any crud in that channel? Sometimes it doesn't take much.
I run oilers maxed out regarless of bar size...24-42" for the 661, same on the old 066 that has the Ausie oiler mod.

 

[Short timer]

It gets tighter hot and loose when things cool.
Most chain throws happen after a short stop, like after a fuel up if you are not mindful of this

If that’s the case why do people back off the chain tension after running to not put stress on the crank?

 

[Westboastfaller]

If that’s the case why do people back off the chain tension after running to not put stress on the crank?

Backward c**ts!
That's hilarious

 

[Short timer]

Backward c**ts!
That's hilarious

Explain your gibberish please.

 

[BangBang77]

1. Cold steel = contraction (atoms take up less space due to kinetic energy loss as cold decreases the vibrations of the atoms in the metal)

2. Hot steel = expansion (atoms take up more space due to kinetic energy gain as heat increases the vibrations of the atoms in the metal)

3. Chains do not contract when heated, hence the need to re-tension after a few cuts. It's also why we loosen the chain at the end of a cutting session as the chain will contract as it cools.

 

[Trdoldtreecutter]

It gets tighter when it’s hot. Just forget to put bar oil in when you fuel up, that will tighten the chain right up and if you flop the saw over your shoulder, it will leave a nice fallers bump

 

[BangBang77]

It gets tighter hot and loose when things cool.
Most chain throws happen after a short stop, like after a fuel up if you are not mindful of this

Negative Ghostrider.

 

[Short timer]

It gets tighter when it’s hot. Just forget to put bar oil in when you fuel up, that will tighten the chain right up and if you flop the saw over your shoulder, it will leave a nice fallers bump

thats because the bar overheated.