Might be replacing the carb on my 034. Any experience with Proline carbs, or should I just go with OEM?
No clue on proline aftermarket carb.Might be replacing the carb on my 034. Any experience with Proline carbs, or should I just go with OEM?
50:50 success rate for aftermarket carbs in my shop. The one for a 200T worked flawless (L and H screws don't turn as smooth as on the OEM carb, but that's it), the one for a 024 was junk right away. Couldn't adjust it properly no matter what.
Aftermarket in general.Was this with aftermarket carbs in general, or Proline in particular?
I'm at a 0% success rate for the cheap aftermarket carbs, and the one aftermarket carb kit I tried. Never again.
Proline is supposed to be somewhat better, but at $60 for the Proline carb and $90 for a new OEM carb, unless there are plenty of people saying they've had good luck with Proline, it's only a small jump to get to OEM.
I had an 034S with a Zama carb C3-4S? Zama is known for main nozzle check valve issues. Since that carb was NLA I found and replaced the main nozzle. No more problems.Might be replacing the carb on my 034. Any experience with Proline carbs, or should I just go with OEM?
I had an 034S with a Zama carb C3-4S? Zama is known for main nozzle check valve issues. Since that carb was NLA I found and replaced the main nozzle. No more problems.
80% of the carbs that go down probably just need a main nozzle and/or a diaphragm. Had very few cheap carbs with issues. Most had a stiff diaphragm or metal in the carb from manufacturing. Always plan to clean a new AM carb. Only one of dozens was junk.That's exactly my issue. Have a nozzle check valve on order, just getting my ducks in a row in case that doesn't work out for whatever reason and I have to replace the whole carb.
According to Luis at Walbro (now retired) it is best to pull these from the metering side rather than push them all the way through which may cause a leak. I drilled and tapped the old one and made a puller out of a sleeve and a screw with a nut.That's exactly my issue. Have a nozzle check valve on order, just getting my ducks in a row in case that doesn't work out for whatever reason and I have to replace the whole carb.
Thanks for the tips!According to Luis at Walbro (now retired) it is best to pull these from the metering side rather than push them all the way through which may cause a leak. I drilled and tapped the old one and made a puller out of a sleeve and a screw with a nut.
Just be sure to remove the "H" needle before messing with the nozzle. I also sealed the new nozzle and welch plug with water thin super glue. Just leave it in a humid location for it to cure a few days before reassembly. Super glue cure time is proportional to film thickness.
Thanks for the tips!
The 034 responds very well to mods being an old dog.BTW, you should also muffler mod that saw if you haven't already. The Pre-EPA outlet under the gills measured 0.642" x 0.865".
If it where me I would open up the stock outlet a bit and keep the spark screen. It won't be too noisy like that and it will make a bit more power and run cooler.Muffler mod is way down the list for this saw. Bought originally to run a chainsaw winch, didn't need any more power there, and the extra noise definitely wouldn't have been welcome. It's going to be my truck saw, and need to get it running correctly and responding to tune before I worry about any more power. It'll need to keep a USFS compliant spark arrestor.
Enter your email address to join: