Proper pull-cord adjustment.......need help

[STIHL-KID]

I have a Stihl 015L and I am having trouble with the pull cord having excess cord hanging out while the saw is being used. Today while using it to cut some small tree's around the yard, I noticed that the entire cord was pulled out and swinging in the wind! The cord would not retract at all. I took apart the recoil assembly and discovered that the coil spring still has good tension. What is the proper way to put back the pull cord and have it retract correctly. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, STIHL-KID

 

[Treeman67]

Not familar with the 15L but this works for most saws.

Take the starter side cover off. Be careful to watch how the dogs and springs are set up because they may fall out when you remove the cover.

You should be able to wrap the cord around the plastic bobbin that is designed to hold the cord. It's going to take lots of wraps. The cord is still through the hole in the side cover and the handle is still attached to it while making these wraps. There is not a lot of room to do this. Maybe 7 or 8. Keep wrapping that cord until the handle is up against the side cover where it belongs. Take a few more wraps. Give it a few pull and see how it feels. Add or subtract wraps until it is working like it's supposed to.

Dan

Dan, you got it right in most part expect if you have excess line, need to shorten to starter handle before you to final round cord on bobbin, give alittle slack final cord around spring tension 2 more turn within, it will keep tight, however i not familiar with 15L but i done same procedure most saw husky and shtil
Treeman67

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

I've done it a couple of ways depending on how things worked. I've actually wound the spring by hand like 7 or 8 turns, and then manuall wrapped the cord. I think I've seen this method listed in a couple of service manuals. Duh.

You can also wrap the cord backward, relative to how it would normally be. Pull it all the way out, which will wind the spring, then release it, in theory winding the cord back in, but you may have to give it a wind or two to ensure you've got tension all the way down to the end. That may not make sense, but I know what I'm trying to say!

I usually use the first method. It's just as fast for me, and less thought involved! :jester:

Jeff

 

[STIHL-KID]

Great Advice

These methods all sound really good. I will have to try them. Is it possible that the coil spring loses its temper after many years of use? The tension still seems strong, however the line is not tensioned all the way up. I will keep on messing with it. STIHL-KID

 

[NWCS]

rewind spring

usually if you have a good spring thats acting picky, shoot some WD40 in under the pulley and give a few pulls. things should quiet down and work alot faster! rewind springs usually just flat break when they die, i have had a few that broke and seemed good, the corrosion was sticking the busted parts together till you got the rope pulled out then it let go and restuck.. kind of like sandpaper on sandpaper.

 

[retoocs555]

My only advice is to be patient, AND if you have the recoil spring out and loose (avoid taking the spring out at all costs, it's a bear to put back into one of these) But, I've done this on 015's many times and they're about the hardest saw I know of to replace the spring and pull rope on. That side cover that holds the recoil is just so deep it makes getting access in there hard. Good luck.

And, wear some safety glasses if you have a loose spring that you are trying to re-coil.

And, if you're going to all the trouble of taking it apart you might as well put in a NEW pull rope. It would stink to go to all the work and then have the rope snap on one of the first few pulls.

 

[carvinmark]

Some thin mechanics gloves would be a good idea if you are dealing with the spring.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

You dont need to remove the pully/spring to get this corrected.


Most pullies have a notch in them. This notch allows you to pull the cord out, hold the pully from rotating and grab the cord between the case grommet(where the string exits when you pull it) and the pully with a seal tool or needlenose.



Once you have the loop pulled up, (about 5-6") you insert it into the notch and wind the spring up tighter a few turns.


Since the cord is in the notch. it dosent unwind when you turn the pully and your cord is now tight.

 

[rupedoggy]

Just a couple of things that might be checked out. The pulley is plastic on most saws and it will wrap, crack and distort over time. Check the slot for running smooth as you pull out the rope. Look at the groove to see if it is pinched or flared out and maybe rubbing somewhere. Also the rope starts out one size and gets a little bigger as it absorbs oil and gets frayed. This takes more tension to retract because it rubs on the sides of the groove. A new rope, of proper size is a good idea. Mike

 

[Lakeside53]

The correct way is to use the correct length AND size of rope. This allows for about 1/2 to 2/3 of a turn of "reserve" in the spring... Almost all Stihl saws use 960 to 980mm of rope. The length is in the IPL.

Wrap it around and then add one or two more turns after the slack is taken up to get a good tension. Then extend the rope and make sure you still have at least 1/2 a turn of spring left. This way, it won't jamb or break the spring


The correct rope and length for the 015 is 3.5mm diameter and 960mm.

If the spring appears to not work correctly (jambs or won't retract the last section of rope), just pull it out, clean it and lube with a spray Teflon dry lubricant, not oil. I sometimes squirt some WD40 as well if I see any moisture. Tension loss is unusual; usually just dirt or rust causes the problem. Sometimes the case (if metal) gets corroded under the spring and grabs the spring as it retracts - polish it out.

 

[Lakeside53]

My only advice is to be patient, AND if you have the recoil spring out and loose (avoid taking the spring out at all costs, it's a bear to put back into one of these) But, I've done this on 015's many times and they're about the hardest saw I know of to replace the spring and pull rope on. That side cover that holds the recoil is just so deep it makes getting access in there hard. Good luck.

And, wear some safety glasses if you have a loose spring that you are trying to re-coil.

And, if you're going to all the trouble of taking it apart you might as well put in a NEW pull rope. It would stink to go to all the work and then have the rope snap on one of the first few pulls.

Yes, definitely wear glasses!

For the open spring (not in a closed metal retainer), there is a little carrier that you wind the spring into, then just pop it in the case and remove the carrier... Most service shops have lots of these lying around as they come with each new spring (of the open type)

Deep cases are a bear to wind the spring directly into, and I've sometimes (if I don't have a carrier) put three small nails into wood, wind the spring into them and tie it with miniature tie-wraps. Pop it in, then snip the tie-wraps.

 

[STIHL-KID]

More good advice

Thanks everyone for your help! My 015L is equipped with a aluminum pulley that has the "built-in" notch. The actual spring is counter sunk into the case housing. I have had this spring out before. It really was a pain to put back in and I finally had an experienced friend help me put it back in. The rope itself is pretty dirty and the pulley end seems to be frayed. The entire rope is black looking and has ground in dirt/grease on it. I will definitely be replacing it.

 

[Lakeside53]

The "trick" to not having the spring come out while changing the cord is to release all the tension from the rope first (unwind it in the notch, or cut it off), then gently wiggle the pulley as you remove it.

You may have corrosion on the underside of the pulley. Sand/polish it all off.

 

[STIHL-KID]

This is my situation

Here is a pic to give you all an idea of what I'm dealing with.

 

[Lakeside53]

I'd just clean the pulley and put on a new rope. The spring looks fine. Make sure you use a real pull cord rope... not junk from the hardware store.

 

[STIHL-KID]

Good pull-cord installation........one problem found

My pull-cord installation was a success and seemed fairly simple. I used the new proper cord "provided by the STIHL dealership" and rewound the cord. I did notice that after this process the cord would not engage the flywheel every other pull or so. Some pulls it would engage the flywheel, other times it would easily pull out and simply retract back in (couldn't feel the flywheel engagement). What would cause this to happen? This process was done on my 028WB. It has one small plastic tooth that rotates on a clip, and engages with the grooves on the flywheel. Is this plastic tooth getting stuck? Any help on this matter would be appreciated. STIHL-KID

 

[Lakeside53]

Maybe, or maybe the spring that holds it in place is too loose, or you forgot to put the washer over the pulley...

Check it before putting the cover back on the saw. The pawl should move out immediately the starter is pulled and snap back immediately it retracts.