Proud owner of a 4012 44hp grinder and am looking for all the tips and tricks!

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1 Quote from service manuel.[after the Poly Chain belt has been adjusted,check the V-belt tension and alignment.When the V-beltis tensioned properly,it will deflect 3/8" with 25lbs. of of force applied.] If to tight tough on jack shaft and cutter wheel bearings.I would put a straight edge on sprockets and check alignment. 2 Usually takes a good 20 pumps maybe 30 to purge cutter wheel,on jack shaft around 20 usually listen for a purge sound.3 I have a MS 660 with a 32" bar,i cut all my stumps flush before i grind unless they have metal or rocks in them,makes it quicker and less mess.You can unbolt 5/16 "bolt on guard on and let it flop,i do when next to wall or fence,i bungie it in up position but is dangerous!!! I have a wireless remote so i can see where the cutter wheel is.
 
1. Squeezing it firmly by hand, mid way between sprockets, mine deflects about 1/2" ea. side. Orig belt 650+ hrs so is going well.
I have a home invented thingummy that checks that the sprockets are orientated OK, I'll take a pic later and put it up.

2. Purges, usually by no more than 20 pumps of hand held grease gun that uses cartridges.

3. Its a PITA, took mine of within a couple of weeks, never been back on!

I always cut any stump off that has any height, a 24" bar on a 066 does anything I've needed, only been once or twice in 8 years I wanted
something a bit longer, and even then 28" would be as long as I'd go for the work here.
 
1) My polychain also favors away from the cutter wheel and it seems there is no normal adjustment to center it (sprockets are aligned). I'd be interested in more input on that.

2) Mine take 30 pumps to get any grease to purge and the cutter bearing opposite the polychain is always the dirtiest so it gets more.

3) I don't usually have to flip it back, but have used rope to hold it temporarily. A bungee would have been better.
 
Okay, glad to hear a bunch of pumps is what it take to purge. Guess I am going to have to buy stock on lucas oil red n tacky.
 
Creeker,Had a few stumps this year that i cut in quarters,over 60"in diameter and 24"high,Even after cut ground level lots of chips,7015 territory !!
 
Alright. Internet isn't helping me at all. I'd like to do an oil change right now.

I know I need oil and an oil filter but should I do the fuel filter too?

Also anyone have recommendations on filters/oil to use.

Any tips you guys learned over the years so I don't make a fool out of myself on this first change?
 
Yep, I also used 15w40 Rotella

I don't have a manual nor can I f******* find one online. I assume with the oil change I should change the 3 filters as well listed with the engine info on my radiator? It's the oil, fuel, and pre filter.

Any other tips?
 
I run full synthetic winter and summer. Mobile 1 5w40, Dello full synthetic 5w40 or rotella full syn 5w40. whichever is cheaper. Walmart usually has the best price on oil.
change mine every 70 hrs. Prolly overkill but sold my old 4400 deutz with well over 2000 hrs and never had an issue or used any oil.
 
Incase anyone was wondering, I took My 2014 SP4012 with a kubota 44hp to the scale today and she weights 2200 lbs. Far cry from the 1650 listen on carlton site. I assumed it was more seeing how the listed wight was for the 35hp gas.
 
If I remember correctly, my 2008 33hp kubota weighed in at 2160 lbs. I'd be interested in the actual weight of a 7015 if anyone has weighed one. This is from the manual:

upload_2016-12-20_22-33-13.png
 
If I remember right my SP7015TRX is 5400 pounds. This is the track version. She ain't light, but she's right!
 
If I remember correctly, my 2008 33hp kubota weighed in at 2160 lbs. I'd be interested in the actual weight of a 7015 if anyone has weighed one. This is from the manual:

View attachment 544882
Our 7015 weighs 4300 give or take a few pounds, according to our crane scale, which is supposed to be pretty accurate. Dutez 2 wheel drive no plow

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
Quick questions, my machine is at 230 hours. I am looking to stock a spare belts in the event of a breakdown. When and if I do snap the polychain belt, should I replace the pulleys with it? I feel the cogs on the pulleys and when I run my hand across them in one direction, they feel a little sharp.

I would hate to replace a 190$ belt to find out 50 hours later that it snapped again.

Also, anyone run aftermarket belts? I am thinking of buying a cheaper aftermarket belt so that in the event of a break down, I can quickly throw the aftermarket belt on, order a new OEM from gates, then run the aftermarket belt for a day or two until I receive the Gates belt. Let me know what you guys think.

Also save anyone a call to the manufacture, here are the part numbers for the belts on a 2014 Carlton 4012.

Polychain: 0400112
Drive: 0400144
Fan: 0200134P1
 
In my opinion, and from my own experience, you should replace the drum pulleys on the poly chain if they are developing sharp edges.
I also did what you mentioned for the belts. I kept a cheap replacement belt on hand for temporary use in an emergency. Then I could order a good belt when needed.
Jeff
 
In my opinion, and from my own experience, you should replace the drum pulleys on the poly chain if they are developing sharp edges.
I also did what you mentioned for the belts. I kept a cheap replacement belt on hand for temporary use in an emergency. Then I could order a good belt when needed.
Jeff

What is the replacement belt you use?
 
I took my factory original to a power transmission/bearing supply shop, and they matched it up with a common one they had in stock. Have sold machine and retired, so I do not have a record of the belt size/number.
 
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