Proud owner of a 4012 44hp grinder and am looking for all the tips and tricks!
- Thread starter dontbthatguy
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Mowingman
ArboristSite Guru
My 4012 came with the hydraulic blade. It is mounted on the steering axle end. This type of factory setup is not something you could add after the fact, as a lot of welding, cutting and modification would be required. They may offer a kit version, but I am not sure. Personally, I would not waste my money on a blade mounted on the cutting head end. Look at how much space it takes up. It will always be in the way there. Mine just happened to have one on it when I bought the machine used.
AlexEquip
ArboristSite Lurker
Yes there is a blade that slips onto the cutter wheel boom, and in the past we have fabricated custom ones that flip down in front of the cutter wheel, I'll see if I can find some pics of those...
fatheadon1
ArboristSite Member
dontbthatguy
ArboristSite Operative
That's great. I'm outfitting mine as we speak. I picked up a 7x16 08 haul-mark yesterday. Can't wait to save all that time not having to load, unload every day.
Doesn't seem like my 1500 likes the extra weight tho.
Mowingman
ArboristSite Guru
I strongly suggest making some modifications to ANY BRAND of enclosed trailer you buy. Especially if it is an aluminum trailer with a fold-up ramp/door and wooden floor. The 4012 and 7015 grinders are both too heavy for your typical off-the-shelf enclosed trailer. The floor supports are not strong enough for either machine. The tailgate/ramp/door is not strong enough for either machine, as they come from the factory. I suggest buying a trailer that has swing-out barn doors, then building your own heavy duty loading ramps. With either machine, you get kind of a shock load right at the rear crossmember of the trailer when loading or unloading. Here is what I did to my 16', tandem axle trailer.
1. Put a retractable, loading support leg on each rear corner to stabilize trailer during loading and unloading. With the 7015, you will raise the back of a 3/4 ton pickup nearly off the ground when loading over the tail of the trailer. Not so much with the 4012.
2. I had a welder, box in the rear angle iron crossmember, to double the strength and absorb the shock load better.
3. I had a welder, box in all the other existing crossmembers.
4. Had an extra crossmember added where the rear tires of the 4012 sit, when machine is parked in the trailer. The machine bouncing in the trailer as you go down the highway will cause the floor to sag, and eventually destroy the plywood flooring.
5. Have the fold-down tailgate, if you have one, reinforced to handle the weight of whatever machine you are going to load and haul. Most tailgate ramps will barely handle a 1500 lb machine, let alone a large stumpgrinder.
I suggest these changes, based on my past experiences. In other words, I learned the hard way, and I started with a heavy duty steel trailer, not a cheaper aluminum type.
Jeff
1. Put a retractable, loading support leg on each rear corner to stabilize trailer during loading and unloading. With the 7015, you will raise the back of a 3/4 ton pickup nearly off the ground when loading over the tail of the trailer. Not so much with the 4012.
2. I had a welder, box in the rear angle iron crossmember, to double the strength and absorb the shock load better.
3. I had a welder, box in all the other existing crossmembers.
4. Had an extra crossmember added where the rear tires of the 4012 sit, when machine is parked in the trailer. The machine bouncing in the trailer as you go down the highway will cause the floor to sag, and eventually destroy the plywood flooring.
5. Have the fold-down tailgate, if you have one, reinforced to handle the weight of whatever machine you are going to load and haul. Most tailgate ramps will barely handle a 1500 lb machine, let alone a large stumpgrinder.
I suggest these changes, based on my past experiences. In other words, I learned the hard way, and I started with a heavy duty steel trailer, not a cheaper aluminum type.
Jeff
fatheadon1
ArboristSite Member
American hauler is the trailer to buy for a stump grinder the ramp door is rated for 4500 lbs and has a dovetail so it's a smooth transition no flap needed. My haulmark has gotten me 3 years with just a sheet of 3/4 under my grinder. But the time has come I'm ordering a bigger trailer to stuff my grinder in and a to be purchased Soon. With American hauler you can get gvw up to 16000 lbs also
Mowingman
ArboristSite Guru
Yes, I have seen those trailers. They are very well built. A company called Sundowner, makes a very heavy duty all aluminum trailer, with heavy floor and fold down ramp door. However, it comes at a cost of around $8000.00 or more.
gorman
Addicted to ArboristSite
I run a 4012 and one trick I've found is to extend the tongue all the way out when unloading the grinder from the trailer. It helps with the steep angle.
I run a sandvik wheel so I can't speak to the greenteeth.
Just try not to run the thing at a high angle.
I run a sandvik wheel so I can't speak to the greenteeth.
Just try not to run the thing at a high angle.
dontbthatguy
ArboristSite Operative
When you say high angle, I believe the front to back scale turns yellow at 30•
Do you try to stay in the white at all times? Or is it okay to run the yellow sometimes?
Stump Grinder52
ArboristSite Operative
Good luck with your machine,my machine has wireless remote,4 wheel drive,push blade and Sandvic wheel,great machine.How many hrs. on it?I would start off saying keep the jackshaft pillar and grinding wheel bearings greased,the owners manual says once a day.If i run mine all day i grease it twice a day.When you grease you pump grease to you purge[see grease come out],i would remove cover to jackshaft bearings and remove excessive grease,when you grease you can hear a popping sound when they purge.If you want to check your grinder bearings for wear,the easy way is to remove the cover to the poly chain,and squeese the poly chain,if the bearings are worn you can see the shaft lift up.I keep a spare fan belt, and jackshaft belt,[belt that drives from motor to jackshaft pulley] if they pop your dead in the water.I also keep an eye on my radiator,in a big grind they seem to plug up with chips,if it gets bad i routinely stop idle down and blow out both ways with my leave blower.Removing the dual wheels, i use down pressure,and use my cordless impact,both wheels off in about a minute.On a large stump i grind on the right side of stump first till drive wheel hits stump,drive forward apply down pressure swing grinder over.On grinder wheels, i would go to a Sandvic or Revolution wheel,most people run those Green Wheels Quad Wheels on low horsepower machines like the one you had.My last machine had 900 green teeth,i find this machine grinds faster and keeps 90 percent of the chips in the hole,i hardly ever tarp around stump .I don't know Shoreline Ct. is ,i deal with Shelter Tree in North Attleboro Ma. 508 809 6514 George is great people and will do anything to help you know matter who you bought it from.In fact i'm heading over there tomorrow will let you know about your blade if its feasible .
gorman
Addicted to ArboristSite
George is the man. I deal with him too. He has walked me through repairs.
I try not to ever get to 30 degrees. 15 or less if you can.
I try not to ever get to 30 degrees. 15 or less if you can.
Stump Grinder52
ArboristSite Operative
I agree,stay in the white,and watch climbing and descending a hill, their a bit top heavy,i go either straight up or down.
dontbthatguy
ArboristSite Operative
Awesome advice! I will absolutely stock the extra belts. Anything else to keep in stock for breakdowns?
dontbthatguy
ArboristSite Operative
That kinda stinks. I find myself doing a lot of hill stumps. I was almost thinking about mounting a couple of trailer jacks to the frame so I can jack up one side or the to level it out. Seems like it might be more work than it is worth.
Stump Grinder52
ArboristSite Operative
I talked to George at Shelter Tree since you have 4 wheel drive ,do you have a adjustable tung and and stake?If you don't you have an extra lever,that means you have an extra section on your valve body that could be plumbed to the blade system.My last grinder had a adjustable tung setup which i liked when you get up to the stump to grind you disconnected the drive wheels and you extended the tung as you made the plunge into the stump nice smooth operation.With the blade/4 wheel drive they elimated it which is ok.When i grind on a hill i grind up the hill and put a chock block and my blade down when able to so the machine won't slip away from the stump.I didn't mean to scare you on the top heavy issue,i just don't go up or down a steep slope side ways[common since].As far as parts go,when i bought the machine two years ago from Storrs Conn.,the owner gave ma a clevis/turnbuckle that goes on the linkage that the engagement connects to,said he had one break,i keep it in my truck but have never had a need for it.You should be good to go,happy grinding!!
Stump Grinder52
ArboristSite Operative
One last thing on maintenance,after running it hard,[grinding stumps]give it a 3/5 minute idle cool down,so turbo can cool down, i use Shell Rotella 15/40 in all my diesel engines.
Fyi our 7015 weighs 4300 pounds according to our crane
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
dontbthatguy
ArboristSite Operative
Had the 4012 out yesterday for what I thought would be a full day of grinding.
I was home counting my money by 2!
I am loving the power increase, even when I intentionally try to take larger bites to see if I can bog her down, it is hard to do so. I keep to my smaller bites so when I find rock, I don't total my teeth.
I must say I miss the maneuverability of my 1625. The 4012 isn't that much longer, but the way she is weighted makes the front tires barely grip and there for hard to turn. I think there is a small issue with that turning cylinder as well. It is slow to shorten unless I am moving.
Also the hydros on my rayco where much smoother. Even as I mess with he valve, just opening and closing the levers was much smoother and easier on my 1625.
Either way I am happy and I'm sure I will get better as the learning curve gets easier.
I was home counting my money by 2!
I am loving the power increase, even when I intentionally try to take larger bites to see if I can bog her down, it is hard to do so. I keep to my smaller bites so when I find rock, I don't total my teeth.
I must say I miss the maneuverability of my 1625. The 4012 isn't that much longer, but the way she is weighted makes the front tires barely grip and there for hard to turn. I think there is a small issue with that turning cylinder as well. It is slow to shorten unless I am moving.
Also the hydros on my rayco where much smoother. Even as I mess with he valve, just opening and closing the levers was much smoother and easier on my 1625.
Either way I am happy and I'm sure I will get better as the learning curve gets easier.
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