Question about relief valve

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pelhamjeff

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Evening, gents! I feel the time has come to put a pressure relief valve on my home made splitter. Whenever the piston is run all the way in or out, either the engine stalls or a hose blows, largely depentent on engine speed. I feel bad when either thing happens. So, my first question is where to put it. The valve inlet would be easy. Next, I dont know what make and model to get. My pump is a dynex-rivett 2008-2191 and I cant find out what kind of pressure it is capable of. I think it moves 6 GPM at 1800, and I probably spin it to 2400 or so. The point is, I'm looking at a Prince valve on which the max pressure is 3000 psi. Could I need a higher max pressure than that? Could my control valve really not have a relief valve? I cant see one. I would appreciate any comments/suggestions! Thanks! By the way, I accidentally attached this to an old post concerning modifying system pressure, so if anybody sees it elsewhere, my bad!
 
Post a pic of the valve most have a relief in them. Probably would be easiest and less plubing to but one with the relief if yours is without. Dont run it without a relief anymore somebody is going to get hurt.
 
You got a nasty commercial pump there.

Here's a link
http://www.dynexhydraulics.com/cbfix.htm

Most components in the mass mobile hydraulic market are rated 3000 psi. That's why you keep tearing stuff up. The pump is not compatible with the rest of the system. You're going to need a relief valve rated at 5000 psi working pressure minimum, set open at about 2500 to 2800 psi. You want the relief right after the pump and you'll need to plumb a return line from the relief back to tank. The hose and fittings from the pump to the relief valve will need to be rated at 5000 psi working pressure as well.

Parker and Weatherhead have the hose and fittings. Any number of manufacturers will have the valve. Make sure to size the valve so it can pump the whole flow. If you're pushing 6 gpm, a 3 gpm relief isn't going to cut it.

Depending upon mounting dimensions of the existing pump set up you may find it less expensive to replace the pump with a Cross, Haldex, or Prince 2 stage unit.

Hope this sheds some light.

Take Care
 
probably cheaper to replace the control valve and get one with RV (and detent return if you don't have that) than to buy a separate RV and the plumbing back to tank. Prince valves under $100 at surplus center or northern.

don't run it without, surprised nothing has blown. There are wicked high pressure spikes in there that the pump sees.

k
 
I'm trying to get a picture of the valve posted but I'm having some trouble. I have taken 3 pictures and have them in "my pictures" but how do you get them posted?
 
probably cheaper to replace the control valve and get one with RV (and detent return if you don't have that) than to buy a separate RV and the plumbing back to tank. Prince valves under $100 at surplus center or northern.

don't run it without, surprised nothing has blown. There are wicked high pressure spikes in there that the pump sees.

k

what the guy above said is right on. I'm gonna try to describe it slightly differently though.
your pump CAN make 5000 psi. If you provide a relief anywhere, it will keep the pressure down under 3000 psi.

You can buy and plumb in a relief valve. one side goes to the pressure line of the pump, the other side goes to the return side.

Or, you can just replace your existing valve. almost all valves have a relief built in, and the guy above is giving you 2 great sources for them.
 
Evening, gents! I feel the time has come to put a pressure relief valve on my home made splitter. Whenever the piston is run all the way in or out, either the engine stalls or a hose blows, largely depentent on engine speed. I feel bad when either thing happens. So, my first question is where to put it. The valve inlet would be easy. Next, I dont know what make and model to get. My pump is a dynex-rivett 2008-2191 and I cant find out what kind of pressure it is capable of. I think it moves 6 GPM at 1800, and I probably spin it to 2400 or so. The point is, I'm looking at a Prince valve on which the max pressure is 3000 psi. Could I need a higher max pressure than that? Could my control valve really not have a relief valve? I cant see one. I would appreciate any comments/suggestions! Thanks! By the way, I accidentally attached this to an old post concerning modifying system pressure, so if anybody sees it elsewhere, my bad!

You don't need everything else rated 5000psi because your pump is rated 5000psi. Just make sure you set the new relief valve 3000psi or below. What ever solution you choose, ALSO T in a pressure gauge between the pump and the operation valve. Choose a liquid filled, 0-5000psi (or 0-3000psi, a few $ less). They are chep, less than 20$ + fittings. Mount it so you can monitor the pressure while splitting. That way you'll know what you are doing setting the new pressure, and it's also educational for your operation, that way you'll know what splitting force different woods take. You see that most of the splitting cycle is low pressure operation, but you'll need max pressure, for some 1/10 sec's to make the initial crack.
 
I'm trying to get a picture of the valve posted but I'm having some trouble. I have taken 3 pictures and have them in "my pictures" but how do you get them posted?

There are many different way to do pictures, either from your computer or from another website.
addpix.JPG

To upload from computer click Manage Attachments
addpix2.JPG

Browse to find your picture....
addpix3.JPG
 
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I have never seen a single spool valve for an open center system that does not have a relief but It is possible. Somebody could have screwed it in tight or it could be stuck. A pic of the valve when you figure out hhow to do it will help.
 
Boy, that's cool! Took me forever too, but there they are! Thanks for the help. OK, if there's a relief on that thing, I dont know where. I thought it would be under that cover in the third pic, but that's the detent spring assy.
 

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