Question about wood filler

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Brushstomper

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My wife and I are in the process of making some cutting boards for kitchen use. The wood we're using is mesquite and has some imperfections that need filling. Question is what to use that will not contaminate food that is cut on these boards. They will be finished with either mineral oil or vegetable oil for the last step. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
 
For small imperfections you can try mixing some very fine wood dust from the same species with some wood glue to match the color. My grandpa used to have little drawers full of different wood dusts that he'd saved for this purpose in his cabinet shop. For large voids, you'll need some kind of epoxy. I don't know if they are generally foodsafe or not. I would guess probably not, though unless you're going to throw it in the microwave or something I wouldn't personally be too worried.
 
I have had very good results with sanding and adding a few drops of super glue to the sawdust that collects in the void.
For larger voids I have collected and packed coarse saw chips mixed with dust into the void and added a few drops then a few strokes with sandpaper. quick dry times allow several coats in a short time.

one could use linseed oil if there is time to allow it to dry for longer periods.
 
My wife and I are in the process of making some cutting boards for kitchen use. The wood we're using is mesquite and has some imperfections that need filling. Question is what to use that will not contaminate food that is cut on these boards. They will be finished with either mineral oil or vegetable oil for the last step. Any suggestions will be appreciated.



I would use 100% Pure Tung Oil, FDA approved for food contact.... LOOK HERE

Ted
 
What about filing the imperfections with clear epoxy? Don't know if its safe or not.

I don't use any oil on mine - just plain it down smooth once in a while. I've always heard the natural acidity of the wood will prevent the growth of bacteria.
 
What about filing the imperfections with clear epoxy? Don't know if its safe or not.

I don't use any oil on mine - just plain it down smooth once in a while. I've always heard the natural acidity of the wood will prevent the growth of bacteria.

That may be true for some woods like Oak, Walnut, and Teak which have some very potent natural substances in them such as tannins, but I'm not sure some of the more mundane woods like Birch, Maple, and especially the softwoods would share this trait.

It's true that normal vegetable oils are not durable and will spoil after a while. I haven't heard the same things about true nut oils like Walnut or Almond - many people use these oils exclusively on cutting boards and butcher blocks, so they can't be that bad for spoilage. Peanut oil, on the other hand, I wouldn't trust - and for food use, I think it's generally a good idea to avoid using a nut oil altogether due to allergy concerns. I'm also fairly sure that Danish oil should be safe, but don't quote me on that (unless I'm right!). Personally I use Tung oil if I want to darken or yellow the wood a bit, or just plain Mineral Oil if I want to leave it more natural. Any oil will yellow the wood a bit though.

Here are a couple boards I made last Winter out of some Birch crotchwood:

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On the backside you can see a bark pocket void that I filled with regular, 2-part hard-set epoxy that you should be able to get from any hardware store. I forget who the stuff I used is made by specifically though. I have no idea if it's foodsafe and to be honest it didn't really cross my mind at the time, since I had no intention of actually using this thing AND the defect was on the back. The handle here is actually Douglas Fir and is a bit undersized but I was limited to the thickness of the piece, since I lost a fair bit planing the warp out of the original rough cut.

Another:

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This one was otherwise going to be a scrap piece from another smaller crotch. I cut the one edge irregularly to maximize the amount of figured wood I could keep - the wood I cut away at the corners had heavy edgewane and prevented the piece from being left as a larger rectangle. As you can see, it also has an epoxy-filled bark pocket on the birch side. I wanted a sturdier handle, so I augmented the piece's thickness by gluing a panel of contrasting wood on the other side since it really had no character anyway. The dark is Mahogany, and I have no idea what the white is. Both were salvaged from pallets though. My cousin and his wife liked this one so much they bought it off me a while ago. I told them they could HAVE it but they insisted on paying, citing my being laid off right now. Fair enough, I guess.

Both of those boards were finished with just plain mineral oil, which I actually got from the pharmacy. Couldn't find any at woodworking supply places locally. I've never had it spoil on me though, I just give the pieces a light sanding and another coat of oil as needed every year or two.
 
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That may be true for some woods like Oak, Walnut, and Teak which have some very potent natural substances in them such as tannins, but I'm not sure some of the more mundane woods like Birch, Maple, and especially the softwoods would share this trait.

I read a report several years ago about a study done by the University of Mich. about this. They used a Maple Board vs one of the new composite boards. It blew everybodys mind, the wood was far superior.
 

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