Questions from newbie homeowner saw user

[Gark]

Have lurked here many months. Thanks to so many for their experience and inputs. I threw away previous saws (Poulan 110- tossed it 20' against a garage wall, emptied it and found a metal recycler), regretably gave away the old Homelite Zipsaw (20' bar, 3/8 chain, TORQUE GALORE- you could NOT bog that saw down nohow. Gave it to a saw local shopowner for 'recommendation' for all-around new saw - it quit and I'm too dumb to fix it).
Now using MS290 with 18' bar for homeowner occasional use to gather 5 -7 cords firewood yearly to warm the home. Have graduated from a few 'green' 26RM2 (.325) loops to 'yellow' 26RS-74 (.325) and always aware/respectful of kickback and binding. Using PPE except for chaps. Cutting mostly maple (soft-silver maple or hard sugar-maple), elm, black locust, hickory and wild cherry. The yellow chain is way better. The MS290 is 3 years old, has black plastic guard around the HI and LO carb jet screws. With patience and well sharpened chain, it is sufficient for my needs. Wondering how it will do when sunk into some oak (haven't found any available yet).
Sharpening chains myself using the Oregon file guide (about $30) to hold the angles/depth correctly every 3 sharpenings with freehand filing between fuel tank fills because the local Stihl dealer wrecked 2 chain loops I gave him to sharpen (they had MAJOR chisel length differences between left and right cutters and he said "no, we never check/grind the depth guages (rakers) and I don't know anybody that does"). I sharpen 'em just until you feel the tiniest little burr on the sideplate and chisel-top. Man, they MELT through wood just after sharpening. Round-filing with 3/16.
MY QUESTIONS ARE THESE:
1. Is it normal for the drive link channel to get clogged with sawdust impregnated by bar oil? Even the oil port (into the bar channel) gets clogged. Changing to a new/sharp chain always requires cleaning out the channel and oiler port. The MS290 ain't a heavy bar-oiler, but every saw I've used seems to do this. Are the chains sharpened wrong, or is my chain too tight?
2. The saw cuts better at about 3/4 full throttle than full tilt. The bar/chain gobbles through wood faster and makes fatter chips at lower RPM's. I tighten the chain only until the bottom chain barely contacts the bar. I let the chain drink its way (feed itself) through rather than pushing it.
3. The chain won't stay sharp. I never let it contact dirt (earth) -cut logs halfway, roll 'em over and finish the cut. But 10 - 20 bucking cuts later it needs a newly sharpened chain or another '30-second-tickle' sharpening. What's up with that?
Thank you folks for your inputs.

 

[Buzzlightyear]

Hi,

1) Yes that's normal, cleaning out the bar should be part of your daily routine, it's cleans itself upto a point. I do mine weekly i guess depending on what i'm doing.

2) Not sure about the throttle thing as i've never really paid that much attention to mine ! To tighten the chain rest the nose of the bar on your wooden workbench or a surface that won't blunt the chain. Press down on the handle and tighten the chain so the drivelinks can't be pulled out of the guide bar halfway along the top run.
Finish tightening the drive plate cover nuts, re-check the chain and run her up.
You'll find new chains stretch quite quickly. You should always lift the nose of the guide bar when tightening the chain otherwise they'll still be some slack in there.
3. That does sound a little strange, you should be able to cut allday with just a tickle at lunchtime. Have you been taking down your depth guages as well as sharpening the teeth ??

 

[Lobo]

MY QUESTIONS ARE THESE:
1. Is it normal for the drive link channel to get clogged with sawdust impregnated by bar oil? Even the oil port (into the bar channel) gets clogged. Changing to a new/sharp chain always requires cleaning out the channel and oiler port. The MS290 ain't a heavy bar-oiler, but every saw I've used seems to do this. Are the chains sharpened wrong, or is my chain too tight?

Yes ! very normal besides the larger chips the cutters makes very fine wood dust and grit collects on the oil like steel to a magnet.

2. The saw cuts better at about 3/4 full throttle than full tilt. The bar/chain gobbles through wood faster and makes fatter chips at lower RPM's. I tighten the chain only until the bottom chain barely contacts the bar. I let the chain drink its way (feed itself) through rather than pushing it.

I am not sure if you are referring to the link tang only (barely contacts the bar) if so IMHO that is a little too loose. Have you had your carb readjusted since originally purchased, normally new saws get a lot better on power after running 12-15 tanks of fuel is used up.

3. The chain won't stay sharp. I never let it contact dirt (earth) -cut logs halfway, roll 'em over and finish the cut. But 10 - 20 bucking cuts later it needs a newly sharpened chain or another '30-second-tickle' sharpening. What's up with that?

Logs that have been dragged in dirt/sand/grit have it embedded in the bark which somewhat acts as sandpaper to dull a chain. If your wood is like that revert back to Stihl 26RM chain it will stay sharp longer under such conditions. It could also be your sharpening job, have you set your file guide and 0º horizontal and 30º for your cutter angle. Be careful not to drag the file against the cutter on your return stroke. You sharpen on the forward stroke only.

 

[TonyM]

Hey, where in SW Michigan are you. I'm in Hastings, actually south of about 10 miles. I'm picking up some sharpening from the local Stihl dearler here because they have a habit of giving back sharpened chains that refuse to cut. If you're close by, come visit the shop sometime. You can try out some Dolmar saws and shoot the breeze.

A saw should cut faster at wide open throttle, not 3/4. I'm not sure what's up with that. I suspect that what your experienceing has something to do with the chain.

Wood alone will not dull a chain that fast. Often wood can have dirt and debris impregnated right in it, especially near a crotch in the tree. Or as Lobo said, the bark is full of dirt. If cutting in those conditions, you may be better off with a semi-chisel chain. The little speed you loose in the cut is more that offset by the fact that it stays sharper longer.

 

[Gark]

Thanks for the replies:

(Lobo)
I am not sure if you are referring to the link tang only (barely contacts the bar) if so IMHO that is a little too loose. Have you had your carb readjusted since originally purchased, normally new saws get a lot better on power after running 12-15 tanks of fuel is used up.
.................
I will get my carb re-adjusted. Holding the bar nose up, the chain gets tightened until the drive links (underside of bar) disappear completely into the oil groove and the tie straps touch the bar.

While sharpening... Yes I keep the depth guages at .025 and have the file guide set to 30 degrees chisel angle and file is perpendicular (90 degrees) to the bar. Filing only on foreward stroke, not the return stroke.

The frequent dulling (I needed a reminder) is likely from dirty logs, as the wood I visit is sometimes already falled and has been dragged around some.

(TonyM)
Hey, where in SW Michigan are you.
..............................
I'm in the northwest corner of Barry County. The Stihl dealer I won't bring my chains to anymore is in Middleville. Soon as I figure out how to work this website, I'll PM you Tony. Would like to watch a pro tune up my carb.

Thanks, guys.

 

[West Texas]

Don't know if you have a two jet or three jet carb. But on a three jet carb, I adjust the L and LA for 'optimum' starting and idle conditions. Then I adjust the H jet while making a full throttle cut in a good sized log. Have a buddy make the cut, while you adjust the H jet, and the sound and perfomance of the saw will tell you when its 'fine tuned'.

Tom

 

[clearance]

Gark-you wear all p.p.e. except for chaps, wear chaps. If you cut the big vein in your leg (femoral artery) you will bleed out faster than it takes to piss. I know you are using a little saw but meat cuts quick and it ain't pretty.

 

[TimberPig]

I'll second what clearance said, if you aren't wearing chaps you are missing one of the most important pieces. It only takes a second and your leg is severely cut. Your eye protection, ear protection and your chaps are the most important saw specific safety gear, along with the obvious work boots, pants and gloves.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

I'll second what clearance said, if you aren't wearing chaps you are missing one of the most important pieces. It only takes a second and your leg is severely cut. Your eye protection, ear protection and your chaps are the most important saw specific safety gear, along with the obvious work boots, pants and gloves.

Nice to hear some pros taking safety gear seriously. I see a lot of pictures on this site of people cutting with ZERO safety gear.

If that's what makes a man tough, I guess I'm a sissy. I mean, I DO wear those funky orange chaps!

I USED to be tough, though. Didn't even bother with hearing protection around loud noises. Now I continually have to ask people to repeat themselves.

 

[Patrick62]

I agree with chaps, having been there and done that. It is amazing how far into your leg you can go without getting anything vital.

Cutting skidded wood: Dirt embedded can dull a chain like crazy. Cut from the clean side to the dirty side, if possible. File the chain at 20-25 deg instead of 30. Cuts slower, but stays sharp longer.

Chain tension, Chain should "snap" back in when pulled out. Sounds like it was running a bit loose.

 

[J_Ashley]

2- Sounds like the carb needs adjusted. If it loses power at WOT then chances are it's leaning out too much. Check you sparkplug to see how it looks. If it's grey/white in color then you're running the saw too lean and need to add some more fuel. I usually tune the High jet so that the saw reaches itr's highest RPM, then slightly loosen the adjusting screw to add more fuel in.

Justin