Quick question(s) before I pull the trigger on a DHT 25 ton splitter

[TRTermite]

I am sure there are those on here that could get that thing running like a top, if they could get their hands on it. Not that that helps a whole lot right now, I guess...

Something to ponder, how good is your small engine repair mechanic?? Might be beneficial to shop around for an "Old Geezer" that really knows his sh t uff. One post mentioned a carbon issue. that has to be a reaction to an action running rich or choked or carb issues or valve/timing/closing and may be the underlying clue to analyze .

He thought maybe some wasps built a nest in the muffler (I keep it under a tarp). He took the exhaust apart and found a screen which was plugged with carbon or whatever.

Moisture sitting with carbon tends to release the carbon and a chunk could be hanging a valve up(open) enough to cause a problem. Your carbon shouldn't be there ,,, some but not enough to plug a muffler BAD something

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Small motors or engine are way too cheap to spend much time repairing or fixing. Most engines used for to days splitter are 10 HP or less. No one can afford to do any engine work as cheap as just ordering a new engine that will likely wear out the splitter. I bought what I thought was a standard rebuildable engine that would last forever about thirty years ago. So I bought a industrial 16 HP gas motor by Tecumseh. After several exposures of rain and snow the water sitting in the carburetor caused failure that was not repairable. When I studied on what to order and what would need to be done to have a complete rebuilt engine I discovered it was completely out of reach. The parts alone for seals gaskets cam and piston was $1500. I can buy a nice replacement motor brand new for less than $400. To pull a head and replace a valve is totally not worth while. I did go to Fleabay and ordered a couple of Briggs carburetors for less than $30 and for now runs fine. Thanks

 

[Husky Joe]

Small motors or engine are way too cheap to spend much time repairing or fixing.

Ted, I think you said it all. After reading great reviews about the Harbor FRIGHT Predator, I printed a coupon and I'll be picking one up in the next day or so for $99.00 plus tax. Probably not even worth bothering with the extended warranty and all the BS if I do have an issue on down the road. I've been dropping nearly 100 bucks every time I go see the local small engine shop. Someone mentioned a sharp old fellow taking a peek at it and my local guy has a great reputation. In fact, I was checking something out at HF a while back, probably looking for a spring for this thing and someone suggested I go see Dave; nice old duffer.
I appreciate all the help from everyone. This was quite a saga. I hope I have something good to report in the next few days!

 

[Husky Joe]

I was just on my way out the door on my way to HF and I remembered what JoshNY said about valves. Disclaimer: I am not a small engine mechanic but I can often see when something just doesn’t seem right. Or when it’s broke. For kicks and giggles, I removed the valve cover. I noticed that the rocker arm on the left seemed loose or “not right.” I slowly pulled the starter rope and noticed that the right rocker arm stud and pushrod moved in and out and the left pushrod did too, but the left rocker arm stud did not move. I may not have these terms correct, but maybe you can see what I’m getting at. I think I may have a stuck valve? Unless it’s a simple fix, I’m sure I am not qualified to make the repair. Is this something that the avgas would have caused? It’s still under warranty---worth looking into?

 

[panolo]

That is the stem of your valve and yes it should open and close. You can watch some videos but find top dead center and find the valve clearance specs. Probably in the neighborhood of 4 thou intake and 6 though exhaust. With a set of feeler gauges you can check it and adjust. AV gas should have nothing to do with that.

A stuck valve with that short of run time would seem odd to me. Most times when I have seen them stuck they are bent.

 

[sb47]

I'm not ganna post a long explanation but the gas did not do that.

 

[JoshNY]

A stuck valve in an engine that has sat for a few months is usually due to water getting in the exhaust and rusting the valvestem. Can sometimes be caused by excess carbon buildup on the valve also, but that would probably have caused you issues last time it ran.

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[JoshNY]

I also wonder if the av gas could be the reason for the extra carbon on the exhaust screen (spark arrestor) and could have potential carbon buildup on the exhaust valve as well.
Av as is leaded of I recall correctly and higher octane for high compression plane engines.
Might not burn as clean in a low rpm, low compression small engine.
With the low useage, id still be surprised if there were heavy deposits in the engine.

With the valvespring back on, and the piston down towards the bottom of it's stroke, id try giving it a few light taps with a plastic hammer and see if you can get it moving.

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[JoshNY]

Actually if still under warranty, might be best to see what kohler or dht would do.
Those Kohler engines have a pretty good track record, so if you could get it sorted out under warranty for free, why not.

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[TRTermite]

Old gas will stick a valve in a 20 hp Onan (miller trailblazer welder) .. dries the oil out of the guides or something, didn't take long to do either. It took some "TLC" to get it to free up and not bend the stem. Use plenty of good penetrating spray.. Exhaust valves are normally the culprit from heat factors. Take the muffler off to "LIGHTLY pry from the valve end as well as tapping from the stem end. be very careful to not tweak the valve as they will bend easy and then not seat properly. some of the knock off Hondas tend to rattle and crack the gas tanks recoils and exhaust. But they do run for a long time.

 

[NSMaple1]

If the muffler carboned up, there is likely carbon in the combustion chamber. As mentioned above, some could have loosened up in the sitting and got stuck under the valve, holding it open.

I have never had issues with the exhaust carboning up, on a 4 stroke.

Popping the head off & cleaning might get you sorted. I would do that anyway at this point.

I think I would ditch the AV gas.

 

[Husky Joe]

Popping the head off & cleaning might get you sorted. I would do that anyway at this point.

Gave it a good look and I'm not sure if the valve is bent or just full of crud but even after soaking it with penetrating oil, I can only get it to move with a light tap.

 

[panolo]

If the stem is clean and it's still hanging hard it's either bent or the guide is messed up. If there is some carbon on the stem you can take emory cloth and roll it in your hands to clean it. However don't go wild cause you don't want to get into the metal.

 

[NSMaple1]

Kind of hard to imagine it is bent if it hasnt made contact with the piston. Stranger things have happened I suppose.

 

[TRTermite]

Since you have the head off a bit of heat from an oven or bbq grill ((hot oil smell) will help loosen the stem in the guide

 

[spike60]

Geez, we'd like to see a happy ending to this story sometime soon. When this finally plays out you should have a running splitter and a back up motor waiting in the wings.

Stuck valves are within the affordable repair column on these small engines. (unless ya need a head).But like Ted said above most of these small splitter engines are more replaceable than repairable when the job goes beyond a simple carb cleaning. Replacement splitter engines kind of have their own economy vs other equpipment cause the cost of the engine is so small vs the cost of the entire unit. Nobody junks a splitter cause the motor blew, but toast the motor in a cheap tractor and your gonna be tractor shopping.

Those $99 preditor engines are OK, and you were wise to decline the extended warranty. Question folks forget to ask with that stuff is "who's gonna do the warranty work?", and where? The Ironton engines from Northern have better parts support; not sure about their Powerhorse motors. But even the Kohler or Briggs engines for these splitters can be had for less than $300.

 

[Husky Joe]

Thanks guys. Just getting back in the game after being away for the weekend…
I emailed my contact at Kohler Friday, inquiring about the warranty. When I spoke with them a while back during this saga and BEFORE running the avgas, the guy I spoke with didn't say I couldn't or shouldn't use avgas but he said it should start and run fine on regular unleaded 87. But it didn't. I can't get just ethanol free unleaded locally so once I get this all ironed out and get back in business, I will probably just run regular unleaded with an additive. Sigh…

 

[Husky Joe]

Hey all! The end is finally near and I have some really great news. I got in touch again with Kohler by email and phone. Ryan called me back last Friday and after just a brief conversation, he said he would send me a brand-new replacement engine. It shipped yesterday and I should have it by Monday. He didn’t seem to think that the Av Gas killed it but from the advice I seem to be getting on the board here, I may just run crap 87 octane or even premium with an additive in the new engine. I already removed the old engine and set it aside and with it out of the way, I PRIMED and repainted the paint on the hydraulic tank that came off. The painter on the assembly line in China must have run out of primer on the day my machine came through. A big chunk of black paint just plain fell off. I used my infamous die grinder and wire brush to clean it up and remove the rust and now it looks like new again. Well, almost.

Can’t wait to get splitting again! Winter is coming!

 

[rancher2]

Good to here Kohler is standing behind the engine and sending a new one out. Hope all goes well and your back up and running next week. Going to try to get some wood processed here the next couple days. I have gotten way behind on getting wood ready and grain harvest is almost here no time to cut wood then.

 

[Husky Joe]

Ah, my new engine finally arrived yesterday. Well, almost. The FedEx guy called and said he had my package on a tractor trailer and he could not deliver it to my house, which is at the end of a long, steep driveway. So, another 45 minutes wasted tracking him down where he was unloading a few miles away. But the nightmare is finally over! I got the engine installed and everything hooked up, carefully measured 20 ounces of 10 W-30 synthetic oil for the crankcase, filled the gas tank with 87 octane and a splash of Sea Foam (recommended by the guy I spoke with at Kohler a while back). I shut the fuel off (it came with the lever open) and carefully towed it from the garage over to the wood pile. I gave it two slow pulls to get some gas in the system and she kicked on the first pull. I busted up some big oak rounds and after nearly a year, I am very satisfied. This is the way it was supposed to be! Props to Kohler for their service and consideration.