Quickstop works!!

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hamradio

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Today, I was cutting big red oak logs in half with my 039. Had 20" bar, 3/8 STIHL RS (round ground). I would cut the logs (22" or so; cutting them in half to make them easier to split, about 22" long (I think 28" long firebox in my stove; cut them short so I don't run into issues if it is too long) almost all the way down to the ground, leaving about 4" left, so I didn't run my chain in the dirt. Then I'd flip the log on its side, and cut it the rest through (make "curly fries"). Well, my cuts going straight down weren't the most perfect, straightest cuts. The tip of the bar would kinda' get stuck in the log when I'd cut it the rest of the way through. I felt the saw wanting to somewhat kick back (pushing upward). Then, out of the blue, it kicked. Didn't even feel/hear the brake pop, but if it wouldn't have, I'd be hurt now (was cutting at a weird angle too). My left hand didn't hit the handle, either. I really doubted that it was inertia activated, but it was. Neat. How do they make that work? I don't see any little weights or anything inside the brake parts (all the linkage and springs). I've had saws kick back on me before many times, but never as hard as this thing did.
 
It does work well doesn't it?

I was cutting pallets a few years ago and caught a nail. The saw kicked and the interia brake stopped it. It's the only time it's ever happend to me...pretty cool feature but not one to bet your life or face on.
 
314epw said:
It was God saving your A$$!

Got that right. :D Probably wouldn't do stupid stuff like that with a saw w/o a chainbrake, and probably won't try to do it too much with one with a chainbrake, now.
 
Interesting - I got some kickback today - nothing serious. Saw jumped straight back maybe all of 6 inches.

I was well clear if it had come up, but it just went back a bit, so I sort of shrugged and went back to cutting. Or tried to. Funny - the chain wouldn't turn for my next cut! Grrrr. I figured I had buggered up the sprocket tip or something. Shut down, took it over to my 'workbench' stump, and loosened the bar nuts. Still couldn't get it to turn. Then it hit me.

Boy did I feel dumb! :buttkick:


:D
 
^ :hmm3grin2orange: figured out it was yer chain brake eh? :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Have engaged the inertial brake a couple times just by lifting the saw too quickly for a cut. Don't know what mechanism triggers it, but the chain popped off the bar (chain catcher got whacked) and two drive links needed filing (mushroomed). A safety reminder from the saw- "Slow down, dude". The inertial brake on this MS290 is easily kicked on.
 
BlueRidgeMark said:
Interesting - I got some kickback today - nothing serious. Saw jumped straight back maybe all of 6 inches.

I was well clear if it had come up, but it just went back a bit, so I sort of shrugged and went back to cutting. Or tried to. Funny - the chain wouldn't turn for my next cut! Grrrr. I figured I had buggered up the sprocket tip or something. Shut down, took it over to my 'workbench' stump, and loosened the bar nuts. Still couldn't get it to turn. Then it hit me.

Boy did I feel dumb! :buttkick:


:D

Join the crowd. Was cleaning up my saws yesterday, remount chain, tighten and test. No turn!? Undid everything and remounted before it dawned on me.

Harry K
 
Neat. How do they make that work?

The inertial part of the chain brake works due to the weight (and therefore inertia ) of the brake guard itself. It can either be triggered by your hand hitting it, or the saw kicking so fast that the weight of the handle triggers the brake. That's why it's important not to modify the handle, and replace it if it gets broken. If it's cut down or broken it wont work as designed. The handle is the actual 'weight' that triggers it.

I think any new saw has to have an inertial chain brake by law these days, now you know why ;)

Cheers

Ian
 
NYH1 said:
No. How do you test it?

carry it over to stump, keep it about 0,5m above the stump, lets go off front handle and let the bar´s end hit on stump... should trigger the inertia brake... atleast on huskys...
 
as per the husky manual:


"Hold the chain saw over a
stump or other firm object.
Let go of the front handle
so that the bar falls onto
the stump.

When the bar hits the
stump the brake should
be applied."

I don't know about you, but I don't want to F up my chains on a stump by letting a 30lb weight cantilever over onto the cutters. I actually did try it with just a 32" bar, and it worked great. I didnt think it would have enough force t do it, but it engaged the brake immediately.
 
BlueRidgeMark said:
Yes, you can just call me Master Of The Obvious! :bang:


:D


Welp...................... I can't belive I am admitting to this............. Too many beers (not running the saw that day, just catching up on some stuff from the day before) I was changing the chain on my 350, first time on this saw, I couldn't get it to go back together. I fought and fought with that silly thing and could not get the side cover to go on it!!!!! My buddy finally looked at it and said "Why are the bands closed in here?" Somehow the brake had been engaged while apart and would not fit over the clutch that way!!!!
Make you feel any better Mark?
Andy
 

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