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Gark said:
Have engaged the inertial brake a couple times just by lifting the saw too quickly for a cut. ...The inertial brake on this MS290 is easily kicked on.

I think I'd be taking my saw to a dealer for a look-see. That does NOT sound normal...
 
BlueRidgeMark said:
Interesting - I got some kickback today - nothing serious. Saw jumped straight back maybe all of 6 inches.

I was well clear if it had come up, but it just went back a bit, so I sort of shrugged and went back to cutting. Or tried to. Funny - the chain wouldn't turn for my next cut! Grrrr. I figured I had buggered up the sprocket tip or something. Shut down, took it over to my 'workbench' stump, and loosened the bar nuts. Still couldn't get it to turn. Then it hit me.

Boy did I feel dumb! :buttkick:


:D


Well, I went to my dad's the other day and he just came home from cutting and was a little upset. I asked him what was wrong and he said he locked his chain up and was probably going to have to get another sprocket. He said he set his Stihl 310 down to clear some brush and when he came back his chain wouldn't turn. He said the motor ran fine but just the chain wouldn't turn. Now my dad is a pretty sharp guy was an engineer and also an auto mechanic for a long time, this really sounds like something I would do. I said that is odd and picked up his saw slapped the handguard back and turned the chain. He said don't you tell anybody about this.:laugh:
 
aquan8tor said:
as per the husky manual:


"Hold the chain saw over a
stump or other firm object.
Let go of the front handle
so that the bar falls onto
the stump.

When the bar hits the
stump the brake should
be applied."

I don't know about you, but I don't want to F up my chains on a stump by letting a 30lb weight cantilever over onto the cutters. I actually did try it with just a 32" bar, and it worked great. I didnt think it would have enough force t do it, but it engaged the brake immediately.

Interesting thread guys! I am living in the dark ages here and knew nothing of this. As for messing up a tooth or two any reason not to have the chainguard on in testing this, makes sense to me as (hopefully) the saw isn't running. My recent tale of saw stupidity is sharpening a friends saw, everything going fine, engaged the brake without noticing then went to slide the chain around a bit, um, only a wee bit of skin missing on me social finger.....DOH! (or DUH! Interchangable terms imho lol) :dizzy: Hm, not like its getting much use of late *sigh*. :(

:cheers:

Serge

:cheers:
 
Sprig said:
Interesting thread guys! I am living in the dark ages here and knew nothing of this. As for messing up a tooth or two any reason not to have the chainguard on in testing this, makes sense to me as (hopefully) the saw isn't running. My recent tale of saw stupidity is sharpening a friends saw, everything going fine, engaged the brake without noticing then went to slide the chain around a bit, um, only a wee bit of skin missing on me social finger.....DOH! (or DUH! Interchangable terms imho lol) :dizzy: Hm, not like its getting much use of late *sigh*. :(

:cheers:

Serge

:cheers:

I just did it with the chain off and just the bar on. I didnt have a bar cover that long when I did the 'test'. Picked up a 28" cover at the husky place last month after I chipped a tooth knocking it on my tablesaw putting it away.

As for your finger, well, I've NEVER done that. Really. Not that they're all from chains mind you, but I can count right now at least 5 or six knuckles with relatively recent scars on them. Gloves are for pansies. (I should wear them more often)
 
LOLOL, yup, that's the one, though when used in the bird capacity it becomes an 'anti-social' finger (nudge nudge). :D A wee addendum, after doing idiot things like I did, usin' raw gas to clean your hands is, um, enlivening. :(

:ices_rofl: GAH!!!
 

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