Raker gauge question

[Stihl a grasshopper]

Thanks for all the replies! I apologize that I forgot to mention, and is not discernable from the picture that the flat piece is a Husky progressive depth gauge. The question was geared more towards the effect of the hump on the angle geometry and depth once it doesn't allow the gauge to contact the base of the previous tooth rather than how to actually use the gauge.

Jethro and Hotshot, thanks for the recommendation to just grind them off. I didn't want to get grinder happy if it wasn't recommended!

Lightning performance, there have been no issues with clogging, and thanks for suggesting the correct terminology!

Philbert, The chains came with an old saw I bought and they are all the same type. 3x 36" and 1 x 48" . It will probably be a long while before I need to buy newer chains.

 

[HumBurner]

I'm not really sure I understand how someone doesn't know how to use one. I thought it was pretty straight forward. Sit it on the chain and file whats sticking out.
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Snot rocket science.

The only issue I see with that is taking too much off the depth gauge early on. Then having angles change either due to damage or other.


Or, as someone who uses two different sized files on an individual chain throughout its lifespan. We often use a file larger than recommended to reduce the amount of hook. Sometimes I'll be using a 3/16" file, and other times a 5/32". It depends.on what the teeth need. In three sequential sharpening, I could start with 5/32, next time do 3/16, then go back to 5/32 the third time. Or maybe two sharpening at 3/16 then a touch up with 5/32 on the third sharpening.

(Or, for 3/8 chain, 7/32 and 13/64)


This changes the TPCA (top-plate cutting angle) from different points, which then CAN have a dramatic effect on the angle between the tip of the tooth and the depth gauge.

You can take a chain with too high of depth gauges, alter the tooth and hook, not touch the depths, and have it cutting properly again.

 

[esean]

Thanks for all the replies! I apologize that I forgot to mention, and is not discernable from the picture that the flat piece is a Husky progressive depth gauge. The question was geared more towards the effect of the hump on the angle geometry and depth once it doesn't allow the gauge to contact the base of the previous tooth rather than how to actually use the gauge.

Jethro and Hotshot, thanks for the recommendation to just grind them off. I didn't want to get grinder happy if it wasn't recommended!

Lightning performance, there have been no issues with clogging, and thanks for suggesting the correct terminology!

Philbert, The chains came with an old saw I bought and they are all the same type. 3x 36" and 1 x 48" . It will probably be a long while before I need to buy newer chains.

 

[sean donato]

I have the husqy roller guide/ progressive for .325 chain, and recently was gifted a WCS for 3/8 chain. I've found I much prefer the WCS gauge. I really like depth options over .020 vs .025" can't even tell a big difference between .005" on the depth gauge. Started running all my 3/8 chains at the .035". Now that makes some nice chips fly, self feeds great, amd isn't too grabby in hard woods.