Rangefinder for estimating tree height

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jaymay75

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Anyone ever use a laser rangefinder for figuring out tree height.

I bought one awhile ago for archery hunting and thought I'd give it a try. Have to know exactly how far the target is when archery hunting. Plus or minus 5-10 feet is the difference between hit or miss.

I used it last night and worked pretty well. click of a button gets you within 1 yard.
 
If you really want to be accurate all the time and can handle a little math try this:

http://www.uark.edu/misc/ents/measure/index_measure.html

I've seen this method in action and it gets within inches no matter the lean. This is the method used by the best big tree hunters on huge redwoods etc.

I've seen clinometers be way off, even when used by seasoned foresters.
 
Pretty good info!

The lower triangle can be 45'd seperately and added on. i usually do to base of tree as safety factor, but really site to hinge i think.

On living green trees a few feet of soft top branches brushing something is usually minimal, and first points of tree hitting ground take most of the force anyway. iv'e even used this to judge from the ground ~ where to make successive topping cuts to place as much lenght safely into the target box on ground; to maximize without going over etc.
 
The folks who hunt big trees, like Bob Van Pelt and the ENTS [not the ones from Middle Earth :) ] use laser range finders for extreme accuracy. I couldn't justify the price when I was in MN. If I could find a way to rationalize the cost, I'd have one though.

Tom
 
Shoot Tom, with the bucks you're raking in now, you should be able to easily swingle:D a mere $180 or so.
 
Since I'm on the 40th parallel, more or less, I wait until either an Autumnal or Vernal equinox and measure the length of the shadow at noon local time, then do the trig.  Any other time, I use my little framing speed square in conjunction with a torpedo level to spy a point on the ground the same distance from the trunk as the top is from the ground; more or less.

I reckon a modern theodolite (I like Wild; I guess they're still a high quality instrument even though they've come under the Leica umbrella) would work the whole problem out with two sightings if one wanted to get within a millimeter or less.

Glen
 
i think the speed square is just a better/more sure 45 degree strategy for sighting height/fall. The 45/45/90 formed on tree giving the math to be as far from tree as tree is tall, as these are the matching lengths given by the matching 45 degree angles that set the length of the 2 matching distances (height and distance to trunk).

The 90 degree element is the tree meeting the ground presumably, also that you are sighting on level ground from that point. The square, rake, bend over and look between your legs, pan of water etc. all work on setting the 45 degree angle math in different forms and clothing.
 
heights

to find out the height of the tree we simply cut it down and measure the tree, then quip that tree was **ft high....


jamie
 
What if you want to know if it will fit into the box?

What if you want to know where successive topping cuts are made, that will fit in target box/yard for fewest amount of cuts/ air time spent?

Or what if ya just want to wonder at how much bigger than even the dinosaurs or any other life ever trees are, and think not of cutting it?

Orrrr something like that..
:alien:
 
OK, we are getting to complicated here. I learned this one years ago. Take a stick. Hold it in your hand untill the tip of the stick reaches the tip of your shoulder. then sight down the stick untill the tip of the stick reaches the point of the tip of the tree, walk forwards or backwards untill the base of the stick lines up with your hand, and the base of the tree. Look down, that is there the top of the tree will hit. Or if you wanna get into the WORM method of judging distance, or the MIL system we can do that to. The stick method has never let me down.

Kenn.
 
Originally posted by OutOnaLimb
Take a stick. Hold it in your hand untill the tip of the stick reaches the tip of your shoulder. then sight down the stick untill the tip of the stick reaches the point of the tip of the tree, walk forwards or backwards untill the base of the stick lines up with your hand, and the base of the tree. Look down, that is there the top of the tree will hit.
That word picture is a little out of focus.  I'd be interested in hearing a better-detailed version.  I'm guessing the arm is outstretched in a level position and the stick is rotated to vertical for the measurement.

BTW I was pretty much joking in my previous post; except the part about the square/level.&nbsp; I picked up a "plastic" one with a built-in vial, but it doesn't work as well since it's not a plumb reading, which is vastly easier to maintain while sighting along the hypotenuse.&nbsp; Although I'm sure that $39K would get a decent theodolite ("total station") [<a href="http://www.leica-geosystems.com/surveying/product/totalstations/tc400.htm">this one</a> is probably a bit less].

Glen
 
You got it Glen, sorry for not painting a better picture. Toms suggestion of taking the tip of the stick to your ear would give you a little bit better saftey margin. I have just always gone to the tip of my shoulder as the way I was taught.

Kenn:blob2:
 
Originally posted by TheTreeSpyder
Well, heck, why didn't i try that; does it work to fold pole in half (lengthwise!)?

Or is this one of those 1 size fits (sm)all deals again?:angry2:

Well it's actually a 6+4 Jamison combo.

I use 1in:10 ft for easy in-head math, and i have the 10ft pole for my Big Shot anyways.

I've used it for checking big tree registriies on a few occasions.

I've matched Dave Ryan with his Biltmore stick, and did it faster too.
 
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