razor sharp chain

[ents]

http://www.vallorbe.com/Telechargement.php?p=10020&m=7&t=6&l=3

This filling kit video, as well as other documentation I've read suggests filing from the inside out. Some folks suggest filing from the outside in. The reasoning behind the later is so you don't leave a burr on the cutting edge. O.K. Which way is correct?

 

[Mr.]

If you want a sharp chain with any file... outside in.

That thing is a gimmick.

Fred

 

[ents]

If you want a sharp chain with any file... outside in.

That thing is a gimmick.

Fred

That's what I figured.

 

[redprospector]

Quit playing with them Red. Take a picture looking up at that working corner with a white background, so they know what makes it fast.:jawdrop:

They will still be like me and not be able to duplicate it. :monkey:

Fred

BTW there is noting poor concerning that chain.

Ok Fred,
I don't have a pic of the edge with a white background so this will have to do.
I do have a pic of the back of the tooth with a white background.

Andy

 

[Mr.]

Thanks Red.

Now to the guys who asked....... if you can make it look like Red's....... it will CUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

EOM

Fred

 

[OilHead]

Isnt there something like a 10 degree angle that should be incorporated into it instead of 90 degree filing flat across ?

 

[romeo]

Thanks Red.

Now to the guys who asked....... if you can make it look like Red's....... it will CUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

EOM

Fred

Not true Fred, I have made some chains that look exactly like Reds and they still cant keep up

 

[HUSKYMAN]

I have always filed from the inside out I guess, I never even thought about filing from outside the cutter. Does filing from the outside in offer a significant benefit in staying sharp longer? I should add that I hand file only

 

[redprospector]

Not true Fred, I have made some chains that look exactly like Reds and they still cant keep up

Yeah, but they will cut. At least they beat some of the other guy's.
There are a lot of measurement's that take about a roll of chain to figure out. I still haven't got em all figured out.

Andy

 

[Bruce Hopf]

I have been filing my chains by hand and they don't seem to get nearly as sharp as the new Sthil chains.
Is it possible to resharpen the chain and it be as sharp as the new ones?
If so can someone please give me some advise on how to accomplish this.
Thanks Todd

I have used an Oregon filling guide that clamps onto your guide bar for a lot of years. I even free hand sharpened my chains. A few years ago I bought a Tecomec grinding machine that mounts on a work bench. You will never sell me a round file again. You can't beat those grinding machines. With one of them, you will get your chain closer to being original sharpened than any other method of sharpening. It also takes a lot longer to dull as well, if you happen to hit the ground, while cutting.. When you sharpen your chain with a grinding machine, every tooth is the exact same. Just like a new chain. Free handed, you will have one side of the chain a different pitch than the other side, because your arm, and hand never cuts straight from one side of the chain to the other, and will cause your chain to ware the rails of your Gide bar to what ever side is your strongest. If you are right handed, the right side of the bar will ware more than the left side. If your are left handed, vise verse. I also have had problems with sharpening with a filling guide, where the chain tended to dish while cutting. With the grinding machine, I've never had this problem. I usually cut 24 to 50 bush cords of fire wood. White Ash , and Sugar Maple for my home heating, 18 bush cords, and the rest to sell. Keeping your guide bar rails even, on both sides, top and bottom, is also half the battle as well. When ever you sharpen your chain, remove the guide bar, and use a broken hacksaw blade to clean out the gully of your guide bar, so oil will travel easier. Also turn over your bar every time, so it will ware the same on the top, and bottom. I am using sprocket nosed guide bars that are 35, and 40 years old. I have had to replace the sprocket nose on both bars in those 35, to 40 years, by using this procedure. My Great Uncle bought a McCulloch Mac 10 10 Automatic in 1968 with a 16" sprocket nosed guide bar. In 1973, he then bought a McCulloch Pro Mac 60, with a 16" sprocket nosed guide bar. My Father bought the Mac 10 10, 1974 from him to cut fire wood for the farm house that I live in now. In I bought the Pro Mac 60 in 1984 from my Great Uncle to go and cut fire wood for a logging company, that bought the whole tree, logs and tops. I quit after 2 weeks, because of money, and I at the age of 18, cut fire wood for farmers that didn't have time to cut their fire wood, or for people that couldn't cut any more, but refused to leave their farms, and their kids didnt know how to cut fire wood. The could split, load it, haul it, and pile it. They were too scared to cut it.
That is my opinion, if you want to achieve a close to factory sharp chain. With a grinding machine, I can sharpen 8 chains in an hour. With a filling guide, I could sharpen 4 chains in an hour, and cut 1/2 of the wood as I can after using a grinding machine.
Hope this helps.
Bruce.

 

[drmiller100]

the really cool thing about the internet is we all get to learn new folks and new things.

i started with a hand file.

bought a 100 dollar northern tool grinder.

bought a 100 dollar diamond wheel for my 100 dollar grinder.

thought i was the cats meow.

went to oregon, met a feller from oregon who hand filed a chain in 5 minutes that cut 2 seconds off of a 7 second cut on my saw, bar, and chain.

he was kind enuff to teach me something. after that i can out file my grinder chain, but to this day if i rock a chain bad, i grind it for a bit, then file a bit.

 

[Bruce Hopf]

the really cool thing about the Internet is we all get to learn new folks and new things.

i started with a hand file.

bought a 100 dollar northern tool grinder.

bought a 100 dollar diamond wheel for my 100 dollar grinder.

thought i was the cats meow.

went to Oregon, met a feller from Oregon who hand filed a chain in 5 minutes that cut 2 seconds off of a 7 second cut on my saw, bar, and chain.

he was kind enuff to teach me something. after that i can out file my grinder chain, but to this day if i rock a chain bad, i grind it for a bit, then file a bit.

I totally agree with you. Some people just have the knack for being able to do what you have described. Like you said, once in awhile, you have to use a grinder to true up and tune in your chain. I've seen bars that have been utterly destroyed by people, that have too much pitch on one side of their chain, when they hand file their chain, and argue with you that it was not the way they sharpen their chain. They will also argue that grinding a chain will get it too hot. If a person doesn't know what he is doing, they will. I had 4 chains, that I no longer had use for, practiced sharpening with my grinder. When I sharpen my chains, I barely touch each cutter with the grinder, just enough to put a slight wired edge, that catches on your finger nail, as you run your nail along the top of the cutter. No colour changes what so ever in the cutter. I watch a guy one day sharpen a chain, in a shop had the top of every cutter blued. I told him that he ruined that chain. He told me so what. That is how he sharpened chains, because he also sold chains. Now he wonders why He went out of Business.
Best of luck, and thanks for sharing your comments.
Bruce.

 

[cdog]

What kind/type of chain was used to be transformed into the "half fast" we see in your posts?
Thanks,
Cdog.

 

[Mr.]

It could have been a 72LP, 72CL, or the other 72 oregon chain. Can't even remember what it is called.

Fred

 

[Bruce Hopf]

What kind/type of chain was used to be transformed into the "half fast" we see in your posts?
Thanks,
Cdog.[/QU
Where in my post did you find a chain be transformed into a half fast? I explained that I have cut my time sharpening saw chains in half, by sharpening chains with grinding machine. I use and pretty much have used Laser chains. Before I used to use standard chipper chains, and since I can't get these chains any more, I use Laser Semi Chisel, and Chisel chains. I have always had good luck with these chains. Prior to me using chain saws, my Father, Uncle, and Great Uncle always used Laser Chains. A little cheaper than using Oregon chains, and lasts the same amount of time as well.
Bruce.

 

[Mr.]

I think he was talking about Red's chain.

Fred

 

[Bruce Hopf]

I think he was talking about Red's chain.

Fred

OK! From what it looked like, he was asking me a question. Now I see what the commotion is about. I sure in the world wont let this gyu sharpen my chains. Will last half as long, not half fast.
Bruce.

 

[redprospector]

OK! From what it looked like, he was asking me a question. Now I see what the commotion is about. I sure in the world wont let this gyu sharpen my chains. Will last half as long, not half fast.
Bruce.

Hahahaha. You won't have to worry about letting this guy sharpen your chain.

Half fast Andy

 

[Bruce Hopf]

What kind/type of chain was used to be transformed into the "half fast" we see in your posts?
Thanks,
Cdog.

Cdog.
What part of Canada are you from?
I'm from Ontario.
Bruce.

 

[Bruce Hopf]

Hahaha. You won't have to worry about letting this guy sharpen your chain.

Half fast Andy

What is the purpose of sharpening a chain this way in the first place? The chain will only cut as fast as the saw engine will drive it. Also sharpening the chain this way, Wouldn't it weaken the chain as well. I wouldn't want to be around when the chain brakes.
Bruce.