rebuilt 044

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Andy,,, do ya think he missed the techno age bus like I did?????? :buttkick:


Evan, Evan, Evan, What are we gonna do with You???? almost all of the Stihl chain brakes have a bit of offset built in right @ the pin attachment point, there is a couple of little linkages that are involved and a bit of a process in getting it re-assembled correctly,,,,If you need help send me a PM and your phone # and I will talk you through it,,,

River
Ok I'll upload in a second. I see the offset but I'm pretty sure it's bent.

Evan
 
Ok here they are. Read to the top of the page for comments. And in the first picture I haven't stretched the spring yet since I can't get the handle attached.

Evan
 
Last edited:
The handle is not seated properly, see lakeside answer in post # 2. The rod that holds it should come past the handle so you can put the other mini-circlip on it. I find it easier to put the clutch and sprocket on last when I have to mess with the chain brake, gives the spring more room to compress. Also what is that black/grey on the fuel tank in the corner? looks like some type of a repair? And the wear on the sprocket looks like it might be due for replacement.
 
Last edited:
Looks like the top cover is warped too... is that a different one than came on the saw? Looks like it has seen a little excess muffler or cylinder heat...

Gary
 
Last edited:
The handle is not seated properly, see lakeside answer in post # 2. The rod that holds it should come past the handle so you can put the other mini-circlip on it. I find it easier to put the clutch and sprocket on last when I have to mess with the chain brake, gives the spring more room to compress. Also what is that black/grey on the fuel tank in the corner? looks like some type of a repair? And the wear on the sprocket looks like it might be due for replacement.

It looks to me like all of the mini circlips are installed. I'm only aware of there being two of them. There is not one that is installed on the pin that the chainbrake handle itself goes on to.

I usually install chainbrake mechanisms in a different order then what your doing, but it appears the little lever is binding on the chainbrake to prevent it from being seated properly. The lever I'm referring to is located to the right and slightly below the main chainbrake pin. (It has a small spring attached to a slot in the lever). To make your life easier, disconnect the spring from the lever and lay the lever flat so its pointing towards the front of the saw. Now grab the starter side of the chainbrake and pull it slightly outward and down until it seats itself properly. Once the chainbrake handle is seated properly the main chainbrake pin should be roughly flush with the chainbrake handle. Now lift the lever that you just disconnected up and reattach the spring in the slot. I usually do this by pulling downward on the end of the spring with a tiny flat screwdriver.
 
Last edited:
Funny how we "new" saw mechanics make all the same mistakes.....I ran a saw without the circlip on the clutch side once and just once. It took me a few seconds to figure out what the heck that was that zinged off the back fence. The clutch bell must've scooted thirty yards! The clutch not quite so far. Didn't find the needle bearing cage 'till the next day. I'm just glad it wasn't wearing a bar cover, as I think the saw would have been damaged. :buttkick:

I've run saws without mufflers momentarily (as in one second) to evaluate a potential project. Otherwise its pretty useless and abusive to the saw. It runs entirely different without back pressure so its not useful for diagnostic purposes.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top