Recently transplanted four silver maples - 3" diameter

[BigLar]

Last wednesday I planted some silver maple on my property. I rented an auger and skidsteer, dug down about 2 foot,, back filled a little then set the ball in the hole. At the time the ball was about 1" to 2" above ground level. OVer night they sunk about 1",, so the top of the root ball is about flush with the ground.
I watered them pretty good that day and mulched them.

One week later, one of the trees has the leaves turning red/brown - maybe just early leaf color change? The other 3 look sort of beat up. The leaves don't seem real vibrant.
I've been watering them every few days, about 20 gals 3 days after planting, and another 20 gals yesterday. The leaves aren't yellow, so I don't think I am overwatering.
I have pretty crappy clay soil, NW Ohio.

Should I be concerned?
Thanks in advance,

 

[Raintree]

Cut your water back to one good soaking a week until the ground freezes. Properly mulch your Maples & let us know how they look after bud brake next spring. Good luck!

 

[ddhlakebound]

Should I be concerned?

Yes, you should.

IMO, it's still summer, and too early to begin tree planting.

Incorrect procedure to dig a post hole and stick a tree in it. You can bet the sides of your clay pot are glazed from the auger, and will allow little water through them, and likely not the roots either.

You'll probably have girdling issues in a few years if they survive planting, and possibly the whole root system compacted into the original hole.

How big were the root balls in inches diameter? What was the diameter of the trunk, 6"-1' above ground level? What was the diameter of the holes that were dug?

 

[BigLar]

I didn't just dig a post hole and throw a tree in it as you say. Would you recommend I wait until October when the snow is flying - Summer doesn't end until Sep 21 in these parts.

I tried following the nurseries planting instructions the best I could. The tree does take 25 gals of water pretty easy and I don't see any water build up so hopefully the soil and hole walls aren't as bad as you say.

 

[2treeornot2tree]

If they where 3" caliber trees, then the root ball should had been 32"+ plus. When i plant trees in crappy soil, i back fill with top soil / and some peat moss. Sounds like when you planted them that you didnt get all the air pockets out from around the tree causing it to settle. I normally take the head off of my pick and use it to pack the soil around the tree.

 

[BigLar]

Thanks for the replies. I've learned a few lessons with these trees. At this point in time, I think I will sit tight and hope they make it.

 

[stump bandit]

Translpantinting

The first thing is that a Silver Maple can have many problems such as surface rooting and weak crotches that may have included bark. They are a fast growing tree so if you are planting them in an area where they are not a threat to structures and you are not worried about surface rooting than it may be an ok choice. As far as transplanting this time of year, You would have to have a 60 to 70 inch root bal on a three inch tree to even start to have a chance. Transplanting should always happen when the tree is dormant. Good luck, Wes

Last wednesday I planted some silver maple on my property. I rented an auger and skidsteer, dug down about 2 foot,, back filled a little then set the ball in the hole. At the time the ball was about 1" to 2" above ground level. OVer night they sunk about 1",, so the top of the root ball is about flush with the ground.
I watered them pretty good that day and mulched them.

One week later, one of the trees has the leaves turning red/brown - maybe just early leaf color change? The other 3 look sort of beat up. The leaves don't seem real vibrant.
I've been watering them every few days, about 20 gals 3 days after planting, and another 20 gals yesterday. The leaves aren't yellow, so I don't think I am overwatering.
I have pretty crappy clay soil, NW Ohio.

Should I be concerned?
Thanks in advance,

 

[BigLar]

Well I sure don't hear too many encouraging words on my trees. The root balls were nowhere near 60 inches. They were about 34 inches. The auger I used was 36 inches and I then dug by hand another 3 or 4 inches around the hole, so the hole diameter was about 40 inches.

These 4 trees cost me about $750. Sounds like it was an expensive lesson learned. In the meantime, I will keep some water on them and hope for the best.

 

[treeclimber101]

It could be as simple as transporting them uncovered , you did tarp them right ? Nothing a tree likes more then a 40 mph ride down the road on a warm summer day drying out and basically burning them , see it all the time even landscapers flying down the road with a 300.00 beech sitting on a trailer no tarp nothing , lol just makes me giggle , you'd have to do something pretty significant while planting like break the ball to see them brown out that quick prolly happened before they even hit the dirt

 

[treeclimber101]

And don't try to fertilize the brown out of them please , that will just finish them off , take a hose hang it from a lower branch and turn on the water til it literally drips like a leaky faucet 30 minutes a day , not turn on the hose and drop it on the ring that will wash out all the soil around the roots , just a drip like a leaky faucet that's it :msp_smile:

 

[2treeornot2tree]

The first thing is that a Silver Maple can have many problems such as surface rooting and weak crotches that may have included bark. They are a fast growing tree so if you are planting them in an area where they are not a threat to structures and you are not worried about surface rooting than it may be an ok choice. As far as transplanting this time of year, You would have to have a 60 to 70 inch root bal on a three inch tree to even start to have a chance. Transplanting should always happen when the tree is dormant. Good luck, Wes

You dont need any where near a 60- 70" ball. You would need a truck mounted tree spade to dig them. 34" ball is fine.

 

[stump bandit]

yes, you need a truck mounted spade

for a silver maple to live this time of year and you will have to double the recomended size of the root ball. If the tree was dormant than you could get by with a 34" ball maybe.

You dont need any where near a 60- 70" ball. You would need a truck mounted tree spade to dig them. 34" ball is fine.

 

[2treeornot2tree]

for a silver maple to live this time of year and you will have to double the recomended size of the root ball. If the tree was dormant than you could get by with a 34" ball maybe.

We can agree to disagree. Its only a 3" caliber silver maple. Never seen one that size transplanted with a truck spade ever.

 

[treeclimber101]

We can agree to disagree. Its only a 3" caliber silver maple. Never seen one that size transplanted with a truck spade ever.

actually I doubt anyone that owned a 70" spade with even half a brain would dig maple in July , its not typical at all to use a spade more then 1/10 the size of the caliber of the tree so the formula is a 3"gets a 30 ball a 7 " gets a 70 " ball and nine inch 90/100 " ball and so on and so fourth , at least that's was my rule of thumb when I ran a spade and handled prolly 10' trees plus , give or take a thousand LOL, bottom line is the transplant stressed the tree and it showing through the leaf drop , they will prolly be fine silver maples are pretty tough , I would even venture to say maples are tough , I watched my neighbor bare route a laceleaf last June lost all its leaves and came back this year fine