Recommend a Bar and Chain for Shindaiwa 490

[Greenerpastures]

I have a Shindaiwa 490 new, it looks like the old model 488 and not like the
one I see advertised a lot in the US, which we do not get here in Ireland.
In any event, it currently has an 18" Shiddaiwa bar and a Sarp G5 Chain,
which is ok, but I want to get a second bar to use for trimming hedges and removing
over hanging branches.
The current bar has the following markings,
514275 -18, .58 .325 72 9H , most of which I understand.

I want to use a 15" or 16" Oregon VersaCut bar, with an Oregon ControCut chain.
http://www.oregonproducts.eu/en/products/forestry-chainsaw.html
I think the chain will fit the VersaCut bar, it is a micro chisel and same specs as the 18"
other than length.

Problem is I can not find which Oregon VersaCut bar fits my saw, I see from the Oregon
site that and the documentation that came with my saw that the current drive sprocket
which I want to keep suits the 21BPX chain, but I have no way of knowing if the
VersaCut bar will fit my saw, and the oil holes line up etc.

I chose the VersaCut as it seems a quality bar, and it takes the 21BPX, and I am going for the
ControlCut chain as it seems like a quality product and is available in .325, I only have 47.8cc
and this chain should not overly stress the saw.
My next chain option is currently the Husqvarna H25?

Any comments on what .58 bar in either 15 or 16" will fit my saw, I do not need to go with
Oregon but I have no experience of other brands and how well they hold up.
I also do not understand what the 9H signify s in the spec printed on my original Shindaiwa bar ?

Thanks in advance, john

 

[Little Al]

I have looked on my Blount listings the bar mount for both 488 & 490 in either 15"or 16" is eqiv to Oregon 041 mount; but is only listed as running 325x050 chain not 058, depending on the amount of euro's you want to spend a Sugihara, Tsumura, or Cannon/total bar is the best of the bars BUT they are BIG money if it's just for occasional use a bar of Blount manufacture will be fine, Oregon, Carlton, Windsor,GB bars are rated by some guys but I have had very little experience with them I cannot comment on the bar/chain combo you quote as have never seen/used them you may be able to obtain a Husky bar as they run 325x 058 more than likely it would be Blount manufacture.

 

[SawTroll]

21BPX and H25 is the same Oregon made chain.

The chisel alternative is 21LPX/H21.

 

[Greenerpastures]

21BPX and H25 is the same Oregon made chain.

The chisel alternative is 21LPX/H21.

Thanks Saw Troll, I am getting closer to finding the bar I need, asked the local dealer for a quote
so am waiting a reply.
I understand the Full Chisel chains you mention, and am avoiding full chisel because I do not need
that on such a small saw.
It is the tail of the bar that I am not so sure about, think it is an 041, but am just going to take the saw
in to the local dealers and see for sure, I will post here when I find out so the matter will be clear for others.
Here is the 490 I have, looks similar to the 488.


Thanks & Regards, john

 

[SawTroll]

.... I cannot comment on the bar/chain combo you quote as have never seen/used them you may be able to obtain a Husky bar as they run 325x 058 more than likely it would be Blount manufacture.

As far as I know Husky doesn't offer any K041 bars - their small mount bars are K095 (or A095 in 3/8" lo-pro).

The difference between K095 and A041 is the oiling system. K095 bars have normal oil holes, while K041 bars have internal oil channels from the adjuster hole to the chain slot. Everything else is the same.

Btw, most Husky branded laminated .325 bars are made at Huskys own bar factory in Norway, and not by any "Blount brand".

 

[Greenerpastures]

As far as I know Husky doesn't offer any K041 bars - their small mount bars are K095 (or A095 in 3/8" lo-pro).

The difference between K095 and A041 is the oiling system. K095 bars have normal oil holes, while K041 bars have internal oil channels from the adjuster hole to the chain slot. Everything else is the same.

Btw, most Husky branded laminated .325 bars are made at Huskys own bar factory in Norway, and not by any "Blount brand".

Thanks Saw Troll
I found Oregon bars that are K041 type, tomorrow am going to look at the Carlton Super Pro bars,
the dealer I bought the saw off has them at reasonable money, they come with a chain too, which I
will use as a spare and buy an Oregon 21 BPX or Husky H25, odd thing is the Husky / Stihl dealer does
not stock either the 21 BPX or the H25, he tells me he only sells the 22 LPX if I remembered him correctly,
which is not what I need, so I will have to order what ever chain I need or get it on-line.
I'm thinking about the Stihl RM chain or the RMC in .325, but don't yet know if they do this chain in .58.

Thanks & Regards, john

 

[SawTroll]

Stihl makes most relevant chain models in .058, but what the dealers stock is a different topic.

At least in parts of Europe it is common that .325 Stihl bars 15" and shorter are .058, from 16" and up .063.

 

[Greenerpastures]

Stihl makes most relevant chain models in .058, but what the dealers stock is a different topic.

At least in parts of Europe it is common that .325 Stihl bars 15" and shorter are .058, from 16" and up .063.

Thanks Saw Troll
I got a Carlton bar and chain, it came as a package so I had no choice in the chain selection, saying that it is a Full Chisel chain
which I will keep for spare and source another that is micro chisel, in the for of an Oregon 21BPX, a Stihl 25 RM3 or a Husky
H25.
For anyone interested, the bar I purchased is not physically 100% compatible with the Shindaiwa 490,
The bar is an 01W in Carlton speak, and its the oil holes that are different but this is easily modified, 5 minutes work at most.
I took it because it was the only one available in the shop, and I needed to get up and running.
Carlton do make a bar that is 100% compatible with the 490, which I will mention at the end of this post.

The bar I purchased is called the Super Pro and has the following spec stamped on it,
15-01W-K264-SP12 ,which means, 15 inch, 01W is the type of tail on the bar, which is not correct
for this saw, BUT I modified it to suit, all one has to do is cut with an angle grinder or dremel tool
a small channel from the large hole that the tensioner pulls on, to she small hole which in turn allows
oil to flow from the large hole to the small hole and from there it makes its way to the chain.
The picture below shows a grey line where one cuts a shallow channel from the large hole to the small hole,
do this on both sides of the bar but make sure you only cut a slot in one side of each hole.
The image also outlines what other saws this bar is intended to fit, you will note it does not mention Shindaiwa.
The K in the spec denotes the bars pitch is .325,
the 2 denotes the gauge is .058, the 64 is the teeth count, the SP12 denotes the bar is a Super Pro with a with a
12 tooth nose sprocket.
the W in 01W indicates it is a Wide Nosed bar which comes with a 12 tooth sprocket,
if no W is present it is a slimmer nosed bar with a 10 tooth sprocket.
The 12 tooth nose sprocket has a circle of rivits, the 10 tooth nose sprocket has 4 in a rectangle layout.
The 01 indicates the tail type of the bar, it is a Carlton reference found on Carlton made bars with this tail. the Oregon
reference for the same bar is K095 as shown in the image below, along with references to other manufacturers bars and
what saw makes this bar fits.
Note how this bar is quite rightly not listed to fit a Shindaiwa, but with the simple mod it is perfect.


The image below shows the correct bar for the Shindaiwa 490, the only real difference is the absence of
the small holes, no need for them as the oil comes into the large holes which in turn are bored / connected
to the channel in the bar through a small bore hole, like in the original Shindaiwa bar.
The Carlton code for this bar is 10W, the Oregon code is, K041, there are other codes and saw models shown too,
note this time the bar is described as one to fit a Shindaiwa.
The W in 10W indicates Wide nose with 12 tooth sprocket, if no W is present it is a slimmer nosed bar with a 10 tooth sprocket
AND a smaller tail measuring 29.16mm instead of the 37.19mm we need to be compatible with the original Shindaiwa bars for this saw,
quite a different bar tail and slimmer nose, you need the W version unless you change the original Shindaiwa .325 drive sprocket for a
smaller one.
The 12 tooth nose sprocket has a circle of 5 rivits, the 10 tooth nose sprocket has 4 in a square layout, the 3/8" version of this bar
has an 11 tooth nose sprocket which also has 5 rivits in a circle to hold it in.

To conclude, if you cant get the Carlton .325 .058 type 10W bar, you can either use the Oregon type K041 bar, or modify a Carlton type 01W bar
in the same gauge and pitch.

Hope this helps someone

Thanks & Regards, john

 

[SawTroll]

That should work well, there are "combo mount" bars out there that basically are the way you made that one - at least from Cannon and Sugihara, but likely others as well.

All that may go wrong is that oil leaks out the original K095 oil holes, unless they are properly sealed off by the bar pad of the saw. What to do if that happens should be fairly obvious (there are several ways that all work).

This method can of course be used on any K095 bar to make it work on a K041 mount saw, not just on that particular one.

 

[Greenerpastures]

Thanks Saw Troll
I was at a loss as to what bar tail would suit me, for example the Carlton 01W I got works with the mod,
at least now I know it is the Carlton 10W Type which fits without a mod, which is the same as the Oregon K041, which the husky dealer
told me he would have to order in, and charge me carriage on top of it being more expensive than the Carlton 01W.
I am happy with the Carlton 01W bar, only comment is it is not light, if anyone is looking for a strong bar then this
one is a good choice, its large nose will help dissipate heat better and the large sprocket should last.
I've learned a lot about bars through buying this 490, lots of husky and stihl here and plenty of parts for them.
Wondering if I should have played it safe and went for one, time will tell.

Regards, john

 

[nenicu]

I'v got aShindaiwa 490 from Ebay.de. Defekt. Autopsy showed a shatterd piston,but the cylinder was like new. Complete disasembly,new seals ,bearings and piston, and of course a little porting and it runs very good. The problem with these is they draw air from bettwen the case and the fuel tank under the carb. I installed a kind of prefilter before i put the carb in. Very impressed with the build quality.

 

[nenicu]

The bar i have on it is from a Partner 500.

 

[SawTroll]

.....

The W in 10W indicates Wide nose with 12 tooth sprocket, if no W is present it is a slimmer nosed bar with a 10 tooth sprocket
AND a smaller tail measuring 29.16mm instead of the 37.19mm we need to be compatible with the original Shindaiwa bars for this saw, quite a different bar tail and slimmer nose, you need the W version unless you change the original Shindaiwa .325 drive sprocket for a smaller one.

......

That makes me think the one with the 10t nose actually corresponds to the A095, and not the K095.

This is not normal practice with other brands. There is no need for an "A" tail in .325, unless the bar tail is sitting unusually close to the sprocket.

I happen to prefer the 10t noses on 50cc saws - but not if it means the tail size is "A".

Btw, as far as I know the current Carlton bars are what used to be Windsor bars - earlier Carlton bars came from a variety of sources.

 

[SawTroll]

The bar i have on it is from a Partner 500.

That would be a K095 bar, if it was correct for the P500.

 

[Greenerpastures]

That makes me think the one with the 10t nose actually corresponds to the A095, and not the K095.

This is not normal practice with other brands. There is no need for an "A" tail in .325, unless the bar tail is sitting unusually close to the sprocket.

I happen to prefer the 10t noses on 50cc saws - but not if it means the tail size is "A".

Btw, as far as I know the current Carlton bars are what used to be Windsor bars - earlier Carlton bars came from a variety of sources.

The Carlton 01 bar has a narrow tail and nose with 10T and is 0.50 Gauge, this does not fit my Shindaiwa, as you said it is compatible with A095 designated bars. I modified the 01 bars big brother the 01W, which has a larger tail and nose radius with a 12T nose sprocket and is .325 Gauge.

The Carlton referenced 10W bar would fit me without modification, but I could not wait to order one, and the Oregon one with the K095 tail I was told would also take time to come, was also more expensive and would have a carriage cost on top, so I took the 01W and a five minute mod got it on the saw, a look through the Carlton Super Pro bar selection also shows NO 12 tooth version of this bar, except for the model I bought (15-01W-K624-SP12.
W means wide nose, but not all wide nose Carlton bars come with the 12T sprocket.

Carlton Super Pro Bar Chart,

A095 and K095 Tails

But it is the Carlton 10W which has the K041 tail that fits the Shindaiwa 490 without mods.

 

[Greenerpastures]

That makes me think the one with the 10t nose actually corresponds to the A095, and not the K095.

This is not normal practice with other brands. There is no need for an "A" tail in .325, unless the bar tail is sitting unusually close to the sprocket.

I happen to prefer the 10t noses on 50cc saws - but not if it means the tail size is "A".

Btw, as far as I know the current Carlton bars are what used to be Windsor bars - earlier Carlton bars came from a variety of sources.

That is right, there is no A095 or similar (01) Carlton bar that fits my saw, as the Gauge is wrong and the tail is smaller for smaller drive sprockets.

 

[Greenerpastures]

That makes me think the one with the 10t nose actually corresponds to the A095, and not the K095.

This is not normal practice with other brands. There is no need for an "A" tail in .325, unless the bar tail is sitting unusually close to the sprocket.

I happen to prefer the 10t noses on 50cc saws - but not if it means the tail size is "A".

Btw, as far as I know the current Carlton bars are what used to be Windsor bars - earlier Carlton bars came from a variety of sources.

I have no ideal who made the bar I have, the dealer swiftly got rid of the packaging so I do not even know the kit number this bar and chain
came in. the chain is a K2L full chisel, K2C is Semi Chisel, K2BL is Safety Chain, anyway there is no attempt made to tame this K2L Full Chisel chain, it cuts fast enough for what am doing and does not pressure
the saw, it hops a bit but once in it comes out clean so far, I have not blunted it yet as am high up (branching / removing limbs 4" and a little more) from standing trees that are clean. I phoned around today and it looks like I will have to
buy a chain online, everyone is selling full chisel, cant get a H25 or 21BPX or shihl 25 rmc or rmc3 locally, most people around here are forestry
workers with bigger saws, even the firewood men use 60cc for cutting into rings and bigger again to fell.

 

[SawTroll]

I have no ideal who made the bar I have, the dealer swiftly got rid of the packaging so I do not even know the kit number this bar and chain
came in. the chain is a K2 full chisel, and there is no attempt made to tame this chain, it cuts fast enough for what am doing and does not pressure
the saw, it hopes a bit but once in it comes out clean so far, I have not blunted it yet as am high up (branching / removing limbs 4" and a little more) from standing trees that are clean. I phoned around today and it looks like I will have to
buy a chain online, everyone is selling full chisel, cant get a H25 or 21BPX or Stihl 25 rmc or rmc3 locally, most people around here are forestry
workers with bigger saws, even the firewood men use 60cc for cutting into rings and bigger again to fell.

As the chain is a Carlton, it is very unlikely to be really sharp out of the package, and needs to be filed properly before use. Oregon and Stihl chain usually are much sharper when new, but even those will gain from a file stroke or two.

Actually that chain has a "kickback reducing" feature, namely the large ramped rakers (depth gauges). As far as I know all current Carlton chain has this, sometimes with more in addition - as do all current Stihl chain in .325 and 3/8".

All .325 and 3/8" chain offered today has some sort of kickback reducing feature, but the "green" ones have more of it than "yellow" ones. The last to go that didn't have it was the Stihl RSK series, that was discontinued a few years ago.

If your chain only has the large rakers, and nothing in addition, it is a "yellow" one.

 

[psuiewalsh]

I had a 490 and sold to a member. Some of the 488 had a fully adjustable carb that you can swap.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[Greenerpastures]

I'v got aShindaiwa 490 from Ebay.de. Defekt. Autopsy showed a shatterd piston,but the cylinder was like new. Complete disasembly,new seals ,bearings and piston, and of course a little porting and it runs very good. The problem with these is they draw air from bettwen the case and the fuel tank under the carb. I installed a kind of prefilter before i put the carb in. Very impressed with the build quality.

Hi nenicu

Is your 490 the same to look at as the images above, from what I can tell the 490 sold in the US is not similar
in looks, don't know if they are the same under the hood.
If so, am very interested in how these draw air in between the case and fuel tank under the carb,
surely it does not matter where the air comes from other than it is clean and goes through the filter.
Is there a hole in the manifold under the carb that causes air to get into the cylinder, like you mention air getting in under the carb.
How and where did you install a pre filter, and why did you do this in the first place.

Thanks & Regards, john