Recommend a Bar and Chain for Shindaiwa 490

[Greenerpastures]

As the chain is a Carlton, it is very unlikely to be really sharp out of the package, and needs to be filed properly before use. Oregon and Stihl chain usually are much sharper when new, but even those will gain from a file stroke or two.

Actually that chain has a "kickback reducing" feature, namely the large ramped rakers (depth gauges). As far as I know all current Carlton chain has this, sometimes with more in addition - as do all current Stihl chain in .325 and 3/8".

All .325 and 3/8" chain offered today has some sort of kickback reducing feature, but the "green" ones have more of it than "yellow" ones. The last to go that didn't have it was the Stihl RSK series, that was discontinued a few years ago.

If your chain only has the large rakers, and nothing in addition, it is a "yellow" one.

Hi Saw Troll

My Carlton K2L is circled in the image below, I sharpened it a little and steeped it for half a day in oil
as I do with all my chains.

 

[SawTroll]

Thanks Saw Troll
I was at a loss as to what bar tail would suit me, for example the Carlton 01W I got works with the mod,
at least now I know it is the Carlton 10W Type which fits without a mod, which is the same as the Oregon K041, which the husky dealer
told me he would have to order in, and charge me carriage on top of it being more expensive than the Carlton 01W.
I am happy with the Carlton 01W bar, only comment is it is not light, if anyone is looking for a strong bar then this
one is a good choice, its large nose will help dissipate heat better and the large sprocket should last.
I've learned a lot about bars through buying this 490, lots of husky and stihl here and plenty of parts for them.
Wondering if I should have played it safe and went for one, time will tell.

Regards, john

Btw, I like that you are actively searching for information on the brand website(s), and aren't just asking totally "uneducated questions" - far too many do on forums like this. Of course you can't trust every statement that is made there, but the simple facts usually are correct.

It is much easier to offer relevant additional info when this is the case.

 

[SawTroll]

Hi Saw Troll

My Carlton K2L is circled in the image below, I sharpened it a little and steeped it for half a day in oil
as I do with all my chains.
View attachment 555754

You did it right then - but it is best to check the raker settings as well. Usually they aren't too high on new chain, but it occasionally happens.

 

[Greenerpastures]

I try to gather the relevant info and explain as best I can, I am so involved in other projects that the info
swirling around in my head blocks my thinking in some cases, so peoples patience and responses are much appreciated.
Sadly the locals are all Husky and Stihl users, so not much help, though they should know more about chains than they
lead me to believe, biggest pill to swallow is the total lack of chain selection locally.

Thanks & Regards, john

 

[SawTroll]

I try to gather the relevant info and explain as best I can, I am so involved in other projects that the info
swirling around in my head blocks my thinking in some cases, so peoples patience and responses are much appreciated.
Sadly the locals are all Husky and Stihl users, so not much help, though they should know more about chains than they
lead me to believe, biggest pill to swallow is the total lack of chain selection locally.

Thanks & Regards, john

You aren't the only one having issues with local chain model availability, see "conversation" about a possible source.

 

[Greenerpastures]

In my time there has been mind boggling changes, some good, but through it all I find peoples
attitudes have changed the most, shop says "we sell this model", no offer to source the one I
would like to BUY, not steal off them or cost them anything, but this all goes over their heads,
they loose a sale, and a customer like me who just won't take what they have because it is too much
bother for them to order in your item, now what way is that to do business, it used to be a pleasure to meet up with
the old store owners, but no more.
On a brighter note, I ordered a Genuine Husqvarna H25 Chain, this should run smoother and stay sharp a while longer too,
and I will get a local dealer to order me in an Oregon semi chisel for hopefully a bit more bite and speed, this way I will
determine for myself what all you experts are talking about regarding Chisel, Semi Chisel, and Semi Chisel with low kick back (ansi standard),
though I do know the dangers, I want to clarify the benefits of these variations.

Regards, john

 

[nenicu]

Hi nenicu

Is your 490 the same to look at as the images above, from what I can tell the 490 sold in the US is not similar
in looks, don't know if they are the same under the hood.
If so, am very interested in how these draw air in between the case and fuel tank under the carb,
surely it does not matter where the air comes from other than it is clean and goes through the filter.
Is there a hole in the manifold under the carb that causes air to get into the cylinder, like you mention air getting in under the carb.
How and where did you install a pre filter, and why did you do this in the first place.

Thanks & Regards, john

Yes my saw is like yours, the older 490. Under the carb the case of the saw has from the factory a cutout and the air for the engine is drawn from between the case and the gas tank. If you take the top cover and look under the carb you'l see a white piece of plastic. The carb mounting piece is bolted over that cutout. Between the case and that piece i'v put some material.

 

[nenicu]

When you cut the saw dust enters very easy in that space between the case and tank. The air should come free of saw chips.

 

[Greenerpastures]

Thanks nenicu

This is indeed interesting and concerning information, I just don't know how Shindaiwa have a good name
given the seriousness of improper filtration and provision of clean air to any engine.

If you have time may be you could explain more regarding the cut out and how and what you
blocked it with.
Also is there any indication that blocking this hole would starve the engine from having enough air,
or may be even lower the power output.
My saw is new, and I don't like the idea of working on it as the warranty may be void,
shameful really that one has to modify a new product to resolve what is truly a manufacturers
design flaw.

Regards, john

 

[nenicu]

If you keep your filter clean is't a problem.

 

[Greenerpastures]

Thanks nenicu

I will keep an eye on the dust situation, hope to upgrade to a bigger saw, but just don't feel confident
in going for another Shindaiwa.
Its the small things, like a dust filter that to me and some others lets some dust through, and now a slot
where obviously no filtering takes place.
Then there is the bars, not easy to get one here unless you go for a different brand,
and the chain that came on it needing sharpened before use.
where I previously had Jonsered and Husqvarna that had none of the above issues,
just fill up and go.

Regards, john

 

[Greenerpastures]

If you want an Oregon bar that fits a Shindaiwa 490 use on like the two below, they are both Pro Lite bars,
they are both 15 inch, the (8) equates to .58 Gauge, the (SL) denotes Socket-Nose in the Pro Lite range,
the K041 is the tail type in Oregon speak.
OREGON 15" PRO-LITE GUIDE BAR - 158SLGK041 the G indicates a 12 Tooth nose sprocket.
OREGON 15" PRO-LITE GUIDE BAR - 158SLBK041 the B indicates a 10 Tooth nose sprocket.
Going to order one of these to see how if any lighter it is than the Carlton counterpart.

Regards, john

 

[Greenerpastures]

That should work well, there are "combo mount" bars out there that basically are the way you made that one - at least from Cannon and Sugihara, but likely others as well.

All that may go wrong is that oil leaks out the original K095 oil holes, unless they are properly sealed off by the bar pad of the saw. What to do if that happens should be fairly obvious (there are several ways that all work).

This method can of course be used on any K095 bar to make it work on a K041 mount saw, not just on that particular one.

Just Curious as to how I would seal up the leak if one occurred.
I did the mod and without altering the oil setting there is far more oil reaching the chain, it leaves a heavier trail on the ground when
I hold there for a short time to get / check if the oil is going, yet when I finish and park up the saw there is far less oil under the saw than with the original longer 18" bar at same oil setting.

Thanks for commenting, john

 

[SawTroll]

In my time there has been mind boggling changes, some good, but through it all I find peoples
attitudes have changed the most, shop says "we sell this model", no offer to source the one I
would like to BUY, not steal off them or cost them anything, but this all goes over their heads,
they loose a sale, and a customer like me who just won't take what they have because it is too much
bother for them to order in your item, now what way is that to do business, it used to be a pleasure to meet up with
the old store owners, but no more.
On a brighter note, I ordered a Genuine Husqvarna H25 Chain, this should run smoother and stay sharp a while longer too,
and I will get a local dealer to order me in an Oregon semi chisel for hopefully a bit more bite and speed, this way I will
determine for myself what all you experts are talking about regarding Chisel, Semi Chisel, and Semi Chisel with low kick back (ansi standard),
though I do know the dangers, I want to clarify the benefits of these variations.

Regards, john

I have dealers around here that still order what I want without any additional cost (Husky, Jonsered and Stihl dealers), but the selection that they usually stock isn't impressive at all. This is sort of understandable, as most costumers don't know enough to ask for anything that isn't regarded as "standard" here on the saw models in question.

 

[SawTroll]

If you want an Oregon bar that fits a Shindaiwa 490 use on like the two below, they are both Pro Lite bars,
they are both 15 inch, the (8) equates to .58 Gauge, the (SL) denotes Socket-Nose in the Pro Lite range,
the K041 is the tail type in Oregon speak.
OREGON 15" PRO-LITE GUIDE BAR - 158SLGK041 the G indicates a 12 Tooth nose sprocket.
OREGON 15" PRO-LITE GUIDE BAR - 158SLBK041 the B indicates a 10 Tooth nose sprocket.
Going to order one of these to see how if any lighter it is than the Carlton counterpart.

Regards, john

Oregon Pro-Lite bars usually are quite heavy for laminated bars, heavier than Stihl or Husky made ones (at least the ones I have used).

 

[Greenerpastures]

Thanks for commenting Saw Troll,
I compared my original Shindaiwa bar with the Carlton 01W I bought,
the Carlton looks a shade heavier in the side walls, but there is so little in it,
I not see there will be very little gain in buying the Oregon Pro Lite OREGON 15" PRO-LITE GUIDE BAR - 158SLBK041
but that is not a problem, I just want a bar I do not have to mod and keep the Carlton as a spare,
Though the 10T of the Oregon should be slightly lighter than the 12T nose sprocket on the Carlton.

Thanks to all & Regards, john