Recommendation on Chaps

[Turner]

Hi Gents,

I'm new to your fine gathering place here, and after reading threads for a week or so, it's quite apparent there's a wealth of experience and expertise here. I'm looking forward to hangin around and learning from y'all.

I'll get straight to the point of my post. After reading through several threads here about safety matters, I've come to the conclusion it would be in my best interest to acquire some chaps. I do wear head, eye, ear, hand, and foot protection, and always long pants, but for some stupid reason, never chaps. So now's the time. I was hoping you fella's could point me toward a recommended brand or type, and maybe even a good place to buy.

The amount of archives here to read through is overwhelming, and a search didn't turn up a quick answer, so I hope you'll forgive my question if it's been hashed out a thousand times before.

If it matters, I'm not a climber. I am a woodturner, and I spend most of my time on sawing already felled trees into blanks for the lathe. I'm talking about typically sawing < 30" dia logs to <24" length and then ripping the logs and removing the pith.

Thanks for your help,
Brad

Stihl MS 361
Shindaiwa 377
Remington electric for inside shop use.

 

[bwalker]

I like the kevlar ones because they are thinner and less restrictive. Mine are made by Labonville.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

Chainsaw pants are much more comfortable and generally give you better protecction too. Check out the ones that Sherrill sells.

 

[2Coilinveins]

I'd stay away from the dark blue Husky kevlar chaps. I use a pair(for the moment, anyway), and I'd feel better if they went all the way around my legs to protect my calves as well. I believe Stihl makes some bright orange chaps that do. The Husky chaps also don't cover the crotch area. When the chaps are cinched down comfy for me, so they won't catch on anything, my pants underneath kinda puff up in that area. This leads to some interesting comments and fellow workers and passing females. I don't think the Stihl chaps do this, either. Couple things to consider.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

I use the Labonville pads that go inside my pants when I'm in timber. They dont' get hung on anything and they actually wear pretty cool. When cutting firewood, or somewhere where brush isn't an issue, I wear the basic Woodsman Pro chaps from Bailey's. I feel nake without them.

Welcome to AS, and thank you for using the search function first. Most don't.

Jeff

 

[Sprig]

I have to agree with Tom D. and Jeff. Spent a lot of time bucking when I worked in a sawmill, we used kevlar half-chaps that only came just below the knee, never really felt too safe with them as most of the cutting was on the ground, about shin level *shudder*. Sounds like you do a fair amount of low work so look to full protection.

 

[ross_scott]

Over here in NZ I am using C-Logger saw chaps and have also used the stihl chaps(supplied by training centre) and both brands are great the stihl chaps have the piece that wrap around the calf muscles where as the C-logger ones I have in the garage do not but however when done up firmly they do wrap around to an extent and are comfortable to wear.

 

[smokechase II]

A thing to remember on chaps is that no one makes a pair that will stop a medium or large saw that is tuned and sharpened properly and fully reved up.
Chaps are like a seat belt or hard hat, a great idea but by no means a guarantee.
Cutting the calf is very rare. Probably about 90% of the cuts to the leg are in the left leg mid and lower thigh and left knee area.
Chaps should have at least a two inch overlap over your boot tops. When you bend your knee do they cover everything that leather doesn't?
Skin is a wonderful organ. When you cut it the Doc can stretch it. You don't really need chaps if you have the discipline to cut only skin deep.

 

[kf_tree]

I'd stay away from the dark blue Husky kevlar chaps. I use a pair(for the moment, anyway), and I'd feel better if they went all the way around my legs to protect my calves as well. I believe Stihl makes some bright orange chaps that do. The Husky chaps also don't cover the crotch area. When the chaps are cinched down comfy for me, so they won't catch on anything, my pants underneath kinda puff up in that area. This leads to some interesting comments and fellow workers and passing females. I don't think the Stihl chaps do this, either. Couple things to consider.

you just bought the wrong one's.......husky has a couple of different styles and lengths. these are husky chap's with the calf wraps. http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment_28137.php

 

[Mr_Brushcutter]

I've got a pair of Husky Type A chaps their heavy and clubersome. I got a pair of STIHL Hi-Flex type C trousers, much lighter and more comfortable. Added benifit of having all round protection unlike most chaps. Yes they cost more but if your going to be using a saw all day its worth it.

 

[trimmmed]

Hi Brad, I have Labonville full wraps and like them.

And a turner too

 

[Anubis16]

Skin is a wonderful organ. When you cut it the Doc can stretch it. You don't really need chaps if you have the discipline to cut only skin deep.

OK you had me laughing on this one....now this...as a woman logger, talk about hard to find good chaps that fit well, I always go back to the husky chaps, and they do wrap all the way around on me, even the smallest pair...And I feel naked without them, lol...they cover me so well that I can safely wear shorts under them in the summer, only skin exposed is the back of my thighs....
Karrie
www.thechainsawchick.com

 

[Tree Sling'r]

A thing to remember on chaps is that no one makes a pair that will stop a medium or large saw that is tuned and sharpened properly and fully reved up.
Chaps are like a seat belt or hard hat, a great idea but by no means a guarantee.
Cutting the calf is very rare. Probably about 90% of the cuts to the leg are in the left leg mid and lower thigh and left knee area.
Chaps should have at least a two inch overlap over your boot tops. When you bend your knee do they cover everything that leather doesn't?
Skin is a wonderful organ. When you cut it the Doc can stretch it. You don't really need chaps if you have the discipline to cut only skin deep.

Evidently you've never tried it. I had one of my bucker's last season hammer his thigh with a modded 660 and all the string wound in the chaps stopped the chain just before it sawed his leg off. I know the chain was sharp because it was one of mine. And yes, he had the trigger buried on his saw when he did it. They were Labonville chaps, the same I wear.

 

[vince]

this year alone i know two people one who is skilled in the lumberjack trad and one who isn't skilled almost cut their leg off with a chainsaw. the skilled was trying too make a path through the bush. he cut a sappling down then after his saw a 660 magnum passed through it hit a sappling at not wot not even close and it through the saw back into his leg cutting his pants and about 3/4 inch into his leg. He bled like a stuck pig we were lucky to get him out alive IMO

 

[woodsrider]

I've used both the Husqvarna and Labonville (labonville.com) chaps. Like others above, I prefer chaps with wrap calves for better coverage.

I agree with Tom Dunlap's comments regarding safety pants. I have a pair of the Husqvarna pants (the weirdo in my avatar is wearing them!!). They are full featured (articulated knees, zippered pockets, zippered cuffs, etc.) and they are comfortable enough to wear all day. They even look like utility pants, so you can wear them into town if need be.

 

[2Coilinveins]

Thanks Kf, those chaps look alot more comfy.

 

[Turner]

Well, I sure do appreciate you all giving a welcome and some experienced advice. I think you've armed me with enough info to make a wise choice, and I'll spend the rest of the evening and Monday searching on your recommenadations . Thanks for that. Hopefully I'll never need them, but if I do, they'll be on.

And "trimmmed", I'm glad to see there's another turner here. At least someone will understand why I make big wood into smaller wood, and then spin it in circles until it's a pile of chips Nice bowl, errr.. critter bed... by the way

 

[smokechase II]

Tree Sling'r:
I have tried it and it is rare that I can get the chaps to succeed with a properly prepared saw.
More important than the limited cutting of chaps strapped to a log in the field as a demonstration is the official testing that is done by labs.
I don't know what they are doing currently but at the Missoula Tech and Development Center (USFS) where they were leaders at least at one time in the testing and design of chaps. They weren't able to build or find a reasonably sized chap that would stop their test saw. All they were using was a husky 266.
For years they keep using that same saw so they would stay consistent in the testing. They resharpen between each test and had the saw mounted on an apparatus that exerted the same down force.
I believe their focus was chain speed. Not power. The 266 was a bit of a screamer, so I actually think that it may have been a tougher test for a pair of chaps than a 064, 660 sized beasts.
However, on the positive side, I know of only one instance where a leg was cut by FS chaps where it was through the chaps, and not by spinning loosely fastened chaps to expose the leg.
My experience with chaps damage does tell me one thing. Go with kevlar.
I also really like the newer FS chaps that have a wider left leg and an additional layer of the protective kevlar.
However, if you are using a chap that does not fully wrap the leg, you must fasten them fairly snug as the saw can spin those babies exposing the leg in a fraction of a second.
I would recommend that any business that has a pair of chaps where the protective layer has been cut toss them without any hesitation. Additionally, you might want to use them as a demonstration to your employees. Put them loosely on a buckskin log to show how they can spin. Then have everyone cut into them about a foot apart with their best effort at a competent saw.

 

[Tree Sling'r]

Tree Sling'r:
I have tried it and it is rare that I can get the chaps to succeed with a properly prepared saw.
More important than the limited cutting of chaps strapped to a log in the field as a demonstration is the official testing that is done by labs.
I don't know what they are doing currently but at the Missoula Tech and Development Center (USFS) where they were leaders at least at one time in the testing and design of chaps. They weren't able to build or find a reasonably sized chap that would stop their test saw. All they were using was a husky 266.
For years they keep using that same saw so they would stay consistent in the testing. They resharpen between each test and had the saw mounted on an apparatus that exerted the same down force.
I believe their focus was chain speed. Not power. The 266 was a bit of a screamer, so I actually think that it may have been a tougher test for a pair of chaps than a 064, 660 sized beasts.
However, on the positive side, I know of only one instance where a leg was cut by FS chaps where it was through the chaps, and not by spinning loosely fastened chaps to expose the leg.
My experience with chaps damage does tell me one thing. Go with kevlar.
I also really like the newer FS chaps that have a wider left leg and an additional layer of the protective kevlar.
However, if you are using a chap that does not fully wrap the leg, you must fasten them fairly snug as the saw can spin those babies exposing the leg in a fraction of a second.
I would recommend that any business that has a pair of chaps where the protective layer has been cut toss them without any hesitation. Additionally, you might want to use them as a demonstration to your employees. Put them loosely on a buckskin log to show how they can spin. Then have everyone cut into them about a foot apart with their best effort at a competent saw.

I could not tell you any specs on the chaps he was wearing, but I saw it with my own eyes. Then I saw it in his eyes after he did it. As a matter of fact I could not tell you about half the specs folks come up with on this forum. I just know I do it everyday for a living and without numbers, politics or development testing I can tell if it works for me or not. Pretty basic, pretty simple, just like my lifestyle of making stumps all over the Pacific Northwest.
Merry Christmas, Tree Sling'r.

 

[smokechase II]

Tree Sling'r:
I'm not familiar with the Labonville chaps. This next week I'll e-mail a guy at MTDC and see if they've tested them.
There was at least one other major testing lab (industry sponsored that was well thought of). I'll see what there are saying at this time.
I would respectfully suggest that if your chap manufacturer does not guarantee their product from penetration by chain saws there is a reason. I'd place my confidence in where and how I put my bar and also keeping my thumbs placed properly (this as the first level of back-up). Then always wear and maintain chaps, of course.
Maintenance on chaps can be an odd thing. Washing your kevlar chaps in bleach will progressively destroy the kevlar. If your chaps have been washed and used enough to degrade the waterproof capability of the outer fabric, then the protective insides, (kevlar or ballistic nylon or other nylon), can become matted by bar oil over time and this will hold the protective layer together and make it easier for the saw to cut through it, rather than pull it out in strands and gum up the sprocket. If a pair of chaps has a small tear in the outer and they are repaired by sewing a patch onto that area where it goes all the way through, this will also hold the protective fabric in place and again make it easier to cut.
Of course, a dull saw on a dull operator can be a match made in heaven.