Justin Taylor
ArboristSite Guru
Is is one cool thread iv been moding my wildthing for a long time now and been runing out of carbs to use i got the saw up to 20'000 rpm on accident but what carb did u use?
Reducing Squish on a Poulan Clamshell
- Thread starter Chris-PA
- Start date
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Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
I believe it's a WT-391, which is stock on the versions with A/V. It's been bored out to about 14mm. 20k would be extreme indeed! I keep a 19" (68DL) bar on this so it won't rev to the moon, but it pulls it well.
Justin Taylor
ArboristSite Guru
Justin Taylor
ArboristSite Guru
What part did u bore out to 14mm? See woth my stock carb witch workes the best i have the h screw max so i can get the saw to run super fast like 16k rpms and idels at 7k or idels at 4k and only goes to 7k rpm so
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
I bored out the venturi - this is the thread where I was working on that: https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/boring-out-a-carb.296271/ I'm not all that sold on bored out carbs anymore, but this one went from 11mm to 14mm which was useful.
Usually running that high requires some lean mixtures which are liable to burn it up. Are you talking about no load rpm? I'm more interested in how they run under load, as I use my saws for firewood.
Justin Taylor
ArboristSite Guru
This is mostly with no load but have been trying to get a big carb for loaded work
Don't know if it's in this thread but was a two ring piston tried?
EDIT: I just ordered (on ebay) a 41mm 2 ring piston that looks to be the same as the original (don't have it in hand yet) other than having 2 rings. This should give even a little more compression. I believe these saws are only around 80-100psi brand new.
EDIT: I just ordered (on ebay) a 41mm 2 ring piston that looks to be the same as the original (don't have it in hand yet) other than having 2 rings. This should give even a little more compression. I believe these saws are only around 80-100psi brand new.
I use a HF gasoline car compression tester. I've compared it to an air compressor line and the gauge read the same. Maybe the volume of air put out by a saw isn't enough??
I bet I could check this wt and get way more then you stated.
It's only a true 36cc too because I checked bore and stroke to know. Only reason I bought it for 5 bucks to check out. Then went ahead and put new carb kit and echo oem lines in it. Use for loner saw etc.
Even cutting smoker wood.
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The p3314 and 1975 and maybe others are 42cc I believe. At least that's what the epa sticker says. Also, mine seem to have more power than the 30cc beginner Stihl saws.
I haven't measured stroke, but bore is 41mm.
EDIT: Looks like stroke is approx 32mm so this (model # 1975) from I think 1998 is a 42cc saw. I believe my old P3314 (2012 model) was the same engine.
Most are.
But early on there was some 36cc ones. If you do your homework like I have over the years and I have posted before. 2175 Type 1-5 was 36cc and 6 up was 42cc.
I just never had a actual 36cc one in my hands. To check.
I have had so called 35cc that was 40cc, I have had 38cc that was 42cc and so on. You will learn it all in time ans my saved info is out there to read.
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Also no reason to keep checking to dispute your psi numbers. @777funk
The 36cc was 150psi non strato. The 40cc strato was 165psi. I could keep checking just to prove it to you but not worth anymore of my time. I already knew they were higher then the 80-100 you said. If they are good runners with no issues.
The 36cc was 150psi non strato. The 40cc strato was 165psi. I could keep checking just to prove it to you but not worth anymore of my time. I already knew they were higher then the 80-100 you said. If they are good runners with no issues.
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Not questioning that you're right on compression. As mentioned, I used an automotive gauge from HF. No idea if the numbers I get with that gauge are accurate. This was on good running saws. Probably the gauge.
I used to use auto type too. But as long as it has the schrader valve in very bottom where goes into the cylinder it will be alright. But your numbers are off to every poulan I have ever been in over last 20+ years.
I just did this on my Poulan 42cc (model # 1975 wood shark, looks like many others of its kind, bright green etc). It feels a lot firmer pulled than it did before. I also advanced the timing a half a key's worth. The key in this one is cast into the flywheel. I just ground half of it off with a dremel burr bit. I also moved the exhaust port down a little (almost to the top of the piston in its lowest position) and widened it probably 0.010" on each side (looking at the piston, I could have gone much more). This one was not muffler modded, so I also did that while I was at it.
Squish was reduced from 0.055" to 0.020". I did this by a 1/2" dremel drum in the bearing pockets and a flat table top belt sander for the bottom of the jug.
I hadn't run this saw in a while, but with the stock 14" bar and Oregon 91VXL, I can't stop the saw in a full bar of cut. A 14" bar of 3/8" LP semi chisel teeth not stopping in the cut is not saying much, but I don't believe that was the case before.
Squish was reduced from 0.055" to 0.020". I did this by a 1/2" dremel drum in the bearing pockets and a flat table top belt sander for the bottom of the jug.
I hadn't run this saw in a while, but with the stock 14" bar and Oregon 91VXL, I can't stop the saw in a full bar of cut. A 14" bar of 3/8" LP semi chisel teeth not stopping in the cut is not saying much, but I don't believe that was the case before.
And what good is a description without a video. This is in 10" Shagbark Hickory (pretty hard stuff) and with rakers that are a little jumpy (and you be the judge by the chips on how sharp the tiny 3/8LP chain is). But it seems to cut pretty well. I need to move the flywheel back to stock timing and see what happens. Without a more scientific way to measure HP and torque gains and losses, it's hard to really know what's happening.
I have been using my Stihl 026 mostly these days, but I wanted to get this thing going again. It is a useful little saw. I'll bet it's close in speed to the 026 for this piece of wood, but I don't the 026 has a bit more power. My hands are definitely a lot more numb when I'm done running the Poulan! And I miss the dogs. Can't dig in with this thing. I'm sure Poulan didn't put them on the saw for good reason (not enough power especially in stock form).
You may need to swap out the schrader core for one with a lower pop-off pressure. SCUBA supply places might stock them. The ones I got have a white o-ring and pop at 4psi, I believe. I got them from eBay.
