Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Right now I'm working on a Mall 7H. This will be the one and only of its kind.
I have not seen or heard of one like this before.
Its almost done so pics of it will be coming soon

 

[apse]

This should be interesting, Cliff.

Looking forward to the pics of this project!

Brian

 

[Toolslinger]

Ok... How do I get in?

This is the next project... Per another thread, it would seem the check valve/duckbill has disappeared based on the oil that pretty much pours out of the exhaust... Years ago when we got it, it smoked like we were fogging for mosquitoes, so I guess its been gone for ages...

Question is, how do I get in to this thing to either replace the check valve, or plug it? I have spark, so I imagine I can get fire, but there's no way I'm bothering until I know the bar oil isn't going to just blow out the exhaust... Nothing really jumped out at me as to the access to the inside of the oil tank...

-Tim

 

[cbfarmall]

This is the next project... Per another thread, it would seem the check valve/duckbill has disappeared based on the oil that pretty much pours out of the exhaust... Years ago when we got it, it smoked like we were fogging for mosquitoes, so I guess its been gone for ages...

Question is, how do I get in to this thing to either replace the check valve, or plug it? I have spark, so I imagine I can get fire, but there's no way I'm bothering until I know the bar oil isn't going to just blow out the exhaust... Nothing really jumped out at me as to the access to the inside of the oil tank...

-Tim

Your check valve is going to be external to the tank. Look under the flywheel cover, follow the oil lines. On my SL7, there was an elbow screwed into the tank and to a copper line off the crankcase. The duckbill was in the elbow--pressurized tank system.

Chris B.

 

[Toolslinger]

Better question... How do I get the clutch off? Cleaning revealed the screws holding the tank side on... Clutch is in the way of two of the screws...

 

[Toolslinger]

Your check valve is going to be external to the tank. Look under the flywheel cover, follow the oil lines. On my SL7, the was an elbow screwed into the tank and to a copper line off the crankcase. The duckbill was in the elbow--pressurized tank system.

Chris B.

Right... I'll look there...

 

[cbfarmall]

Right... I'll look there...

I take all that back. Just glanced at Mighty Mite IPL. You were on the right track removing that tank cover. IPL shows the check valve just set into the crankcase once the cover is off. As far as the clutch, you have to screw it off. Some sort of spanner will work. I've been known to use a hammer and punch. Or a good pair of needle nose pliers and a screwdriver. Mighty Mite isn't big so beating on it might not be a smoking hot idea.

Chris B.

 

[Toolslinger]

Yea... No external plumbing... Well it gives me a good excuse to clean all the oil and crud from the flywheel cover...

I think I need to find a disposable laptop to sit out on the bench for both the IPL's and the forum posts.

 

[dff110]

This is the next project... Per another thread, it would seem the check valve/duckbill has disappeared based on the oil that pretty much pours out of the exhaust... Years ago when we got it, it smoked like we were fogging for mosquitoes, so I guess its been gone for ages...

Question is, how do I get in to this thing to either replace the check valve, or plug it? I have spark, so I imagine I can get fire, but there's no way I'm bothering until I know the bar oil isn't going to just blow out the exhaust... Nothing really jumped out at me as to the access to the inside of the oil tank...

-Tim

I'm not sure what model Mighty Might you have there, but in the 3 I have rebuilt, the bar oil pumps were all manual. I believe I see the thumb oiler button there, and it is also oiled as you pull the trigger. It is a very simple cylinder oil pump that is located in the bar oil cover on the clutch side of the saw. I have a service manual for the Mighty Mites if you would like it.

I'm sorry if this is a newer version, and there is something I'm missing here.

 

[Toolslinger]

Well, its an auto oiler technically... When we got it 25+ years ago, the thumb lever for the manual oiler was missing, so I made that little aluminum replacement... As you said, it also oils when you pull the trigger. For both those reasons, I'm not too worried that the auto system has crapped out due to the duckbill valve dissolving... From what I've read in other threads, it should just be an 1/8" pipe thread fitting to remove, and plug as I don't think the duckbills are readily available. (I will look around a bit though while I wait for the carb kit to come in, which I won't order until I know I can get in to the plumbing...)
For what I imagine using this saw for, I can't imagine needing an auto oiler since it feeds with the trigger pull, and it would just work well for branching in my lineup... Lots of trigger pulls that way. Worst case is I have to hit the thumb lever, and I'm plenty used to that from our XL-12...

 

[dff110]

Well, its an auto oiler technically... When we got it 25+ years ago, the thumb lever for the manual oiler was missing, so I made that little aluminum replacement... As you said, it also oils when you pull the trigger. For both those reasons, I'm not too worried that the auto system has crapped out due to the duckbill valve dissolving... From what I've read in other threads, it should just be an 1/8" pipe thread fitting to remove, and plug as I don't think the duckbills are readily available. (I will look around a bit though while I wait for the carb kit to come in, which I won't order until I know I can get in to the plumbing...)
For what I imagine using this saw for, I can't imagine needing an auto oiler since it feeds with the trigger pull, and it would just work well for branching in my lineup... Lots of trigger pulls that way. Worst case is I have to hit the thumb lever, and I'm plenty used to that from our XL-12...

Ahh, ok. Your saw must be a newer version that any I have worked on. I've only seen the auto oiler on the SL and PL series. Sorry I couldn't help more. Every Remmy I have rebuilt has been fairly easy to work on, so I'm sure it won't be too much of a problem. Good luck.

 

[67L36Driver]

Well, its an auto oiler technically... When we got it 25+ years ago, the thumb lever for the manual oiler was missing, so I made that little aluminum replacement... As you said, it also oils when you pull the trigger. For both those reasons, I'm not too worried that the auto system has crapped out due to the duckbill valve dissolving... From what I've read in other threads, it should just be an 1/8" pipe thread fitting to remove, and plug as I don't think the duckbills are readily available. (I will look around a bit though while I wait for the carb kit to come in, which I won't order until I know I can get in to the plumbing...)
For what I imagine using this saw for, I can't imagine needing an auto oiler since it feeds with the trigger pull, and it would just work well for branching in my lineup... Lots of trigger pulls that way. Worst case is I have to hit the thumb lever, and I'm plenty used to that from our XL-12...

Trigger is connected to an on/off needle valve. Shut at idle and open when WOT. Shut so it won't empty the oil tank if left to idle a long time. Block it open if you plan on using the manual oiler only. Plug the line from the engine.

The orginal Remy duckbills are NLA for a loooooooooooooooooooooooooooong time.

The elbow containing the duckbill can be replaced by one from a Lombard (I did two of them). Lombard checks can be repaired using a Homelite duckbill. Go back several pages in this thread for directions.

 

[67L36Driver]

??????? Is that pup water cooled?????

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

??????? Is that pup water cooled?????

Air cooled.

 

[ozflea]

??????? Is that pup water cooled?????

I think its a diesel really come on Cliff what gives

 

[67L36Driver]

I think its a diesel really come on Cliff what gives

Yeah, whats the scoop?

They hid the air intake and the cooling fins rather well.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

I think its a diesel really come on Cliff what gives

Yeah, whats the scoop?

They hid the air intake and the cooling fins rather well.

The power head is just like any other 7H, Its the cutting end that makes this different.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Right now I'm working on a Mall 7H. This will be the one and only of its kind.
I have not seen or heard of one like this before.
Its almost done so pics of it will be coming soon

I got this bar and chain from Brian. All the Mall 6 and 7's have two
large slots in each end of the bar and need the helper handle with
the sprocket on it to work. So this is the first one man bar to turn
up. Its stamped Mall on it and has what length of chain to use.
On Mall 6 and 7's the chain adjuster is in the helper handle.
So I had to make one along with the spikes.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Here it is a One Man Mall 7H.

 

[dff110]

WOW

Amazing work as usual. That think looks awesome.