Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

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Well I started into the saw (aka "the green monster") tonight. Surprisingly, the coil and ignition looks new. I cleaned the points and got good spark spinning the flywheel by hand. I love the Mall/Remington flywheels - a captured nut eliminates the need for a puller.

It has Fairbanks/Morse on the clutch cover. Someone really hammered in on and I've not be able to remove it yet. Yes, it turns clockwise to remove.
You can see the wear on the sprocket but it almost looks like the chain should ride down in the teeth - can it be that worn? I can't see any numbers on the drum.
 

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Can someone explain the small hole down inside the crankcase on my pl55a and that if i hold the saw tilted up the bar oil will come seeping through into the crankcase. I believe its causing the bellowing of smoke from the muffler at idle...i fogged out the entire woods after making 2 cuts the other day.
 
Hey guys,

I recently came into possession of a Remington Arms Bantam Roller Nose bar. The nose is loose, but the rivets look good. I was wondering if this is indicative of a bad bar or bad nose or bad rivets. I am going to bring her to a machinist. I was wondering if I should bother.

Cheers
 
Hey guys,

I recently came into possession of a Remington Arms Bantam Roller Nose bar. The nose is loose, but the rivets look good. I was wondering if this is indicative of a bad bar or bad nose or bad rivets. I am going to bring her to a machinist. I was wondering if I should bother.

Cheers

Remington made a no tools removable sprocket tip you can remove with
just your hands. Sometimes you need to pry them off if they still fit tight
Some can become a little loose on the end.

The tip is held on by the 4 punched dimples in roller tip.
remington tip.JPG
 
Can someone explain the small hole down inside the crankcase on my pl55a and that if i hold the saw tilted up the bar oil will come seeping through into the crankcase. I believe its causing the bellowing of smoke from the muffler at idle...i fogged out the entire woods after making 2 cuts the other day.

That hole leads to the auto-oiler check valve. There was a rubber duckbill in there (from the tank side) that has turned into tar long ago.

Check out the "Lombard auto-oiler check valve fix" http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/lombard-auto-oiler-check-valve-fix.200023/

There is a post on the Remington valve down a ways. http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...to-oiler-check-valve-fix.200023/#post-4202270
 
Remington made a no tools removable sprocket tip you can remove with
just your hands. Sometimes you need to pry them off if they still fit tight
Some can become a little loose on the end.

The tip is held on by the 4 punched dimples in roller tip.
View attachment 334948

Wow, how interesting. That looks like what I've got. Do I just punch the dimples again to set it right? As it is, it slightly rubs one side of the roller against the bar itself. I know that won't be good... Or will I need a replacement at this point?
 
Wow, how interesting. That looks like what I've got. Do I just punch the dimples again to set it right? As it is, it slightly rubs one side of the roller against the bar itself. I know that won't be good... Or will I need a replacement at this point?

That's what I did on one or more of mine. Just don't go gonzo with the punch and get it so tight as to make it difficult to remove. B.T.D.T.
 
That's what I did on one or more of mine. Just don't go gonzo with the punch and get it so tight as to make it difficult to remove. B.T.D.T.

I removed the nose and it's bad news. Bearings are hosed and theres a ton of play. I was hoping to use this for some saw GTG on a ported 372, but that plan looks to be scratched now. Ah well.
 
If you don't feel like messin' with it just send me that PL-55A. I'll even pay the postage.:rolleyes:

The PL/SL-55 s are my favorite saws.:rock: 82 cc and not any bigger/heavier than a Homie SXL.

Yea, LOL....I bet! Its my fathers saw so im sorry I cant hand it off. Thanks for the info about that check valve thing. I will look into it and try to fix it
 
It's jis a lil 16" bar I think. Mebbe 17. Nearly the same length as my 18" pro lite. Only 2 adjuster holes. I do like how it has "Remington Arms Company" stamped on it, though.
 
Well I started into the saw (aka "the green monster") tonight. Surprisingly, the coil and ignition looks new. I cleaned the points and got good spark spinning the flywheel by hand. I love the Mall/Remington flywheels - a captured nut eliminates the need for a puller.

It has Fairbanks/Morse on the clutch cover. Someone really hammered in on and I've not be able to remove it yet. Yes, it turns clockwise to remove.
You can see the wear on the sprocket but it almost looks like the chain should ride down in the teeth - can it be that worn? I can't see any numbers on the drum.
Well, here's an update. Finally had time to make a tool remove the clutch. See photo of drum/sprocket. Yes, it is THAT worn. There is a hub on the sprocket that seals against the crank seal. If I can find a rim sprocket drum the same size, I will make a bushing to fit the seal and shaft and go to a .375 chain instead of 7/16".
 

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