remington super 770 new to me

[syrupmaker70]

I am new to this chainsaw forum and collecting saws. I have this, I think it is 1962 super 770 red and white. I installed a carb kit the old diaphram was pretty hard. She'll start and idle just fine but if throttle up to not quite half it acts like it out of fuel. If I keep working the H speed out it will just keep loading up with fuel. You have to feather the throttle but it will idle just fine . Is this the sign of worn crankshaft seals. or reeds. Any wisdom on this senario. The saw is really nice, paint is good original rem roller bar and it looks like a 1/2 pitch chain. I thought it should have been a 7/16. Any more information could be helpful. Thanks

 

[watsonr]

normally crank seals will show a hi idle and you can't turn it down by adding fuel. She should transition from low speed to high speed without stumbling or working the throttle to get it up there. The high needs to be turned down some, it shouldn't be drowning in fuel. Did you give it a new fuel line and filter? Are you sure the metering lever is set correctly? Drowning in fuel and the high speed needle is pretty tight means the lever needs adjustment. Sometimes cleaning the carb several times may be needed to get it clean. Check the high speed needle to see if the tip is in fact still a tip and not a rounded off nub.

Start at one turn out for both high and low needle settings. If they make no change in idle or speed, then the needle isn't working correctly or something else is effecting the running condition.

Welcome to the site, Syrup maker! Do you sell commercially or just a hobby?

 

[67L36Driver]

A 770 would likely have 7/16" or more often .404 pitch chain.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Sounds like dirt in the high side circuit or possibly the needle arm set too low.
What carb, Tilly HL?

 

[syrupmaker70]

Thanks fellas, I just make syrup because it's good. I don't sell it, we give as gifts. I thought .404 was spec. for this saw, could it be stretched? The carb is a tilly hl 159a. Removing the carburetor is tricky. The needles both H & L look good to me. I replaced the cloth covered fuel line from the tank to carb and installed the spring to keep it from collapsing at the 90. I blew air back through the filter that seems good. I have no air bubbles in the short 90 line. The metering needle sits flush with the bowl it sits in. I take another look. The saw appears to be missing the nut for the clutch. This is a right hand thread, my other saws are left hand threads. Can you guys tell me is this clutch remove with a puller? Thanks for your help.

 

[Saw Dr.]

I am new to this chainsaw forum and collecting saws. I have this, I think it is 1962 super 770 red and white........The saw is really nice, paint is good original rem roller bar and it looks like a 1/2 pitch chain.

That is a very rare model --- a Remington with paint on it. LOL. I think many of them started losing paint before they were sold new. Sure would like to see some pictures.

I thought .404 was spec. for this saw, could it be stretched?

I highly doubt .404 chain is stretched unless it is a high-quality aluminum "Power Care" loop from Home Cheapo. Sadly, I don't think they make .404 chain, so it may very well be 1/2". Measure across 3 rivets and divide by 2.

 

[kz1000]

opcorn:

 

[syrupmaker70]

yep, That's what I done did measure three divisible by two I gets 1/2" simple equation. I was hoping it was something more common. This era of saw is new to me, is 1/2 inch chain obsolete? Same with the bar? Hey there kz how are you? Do you know how to pull the clutch on this 770? I'll get some photos up when my teacher gets home. Thanks.

 

[buzz sawyer]

If it's anything like my Remington Pro 88, the clutch threads on - removes clockwise so that would be left hand threads. See the arrow at the top of the clutch in the photo.
What fuel filter is on it? If the old aluminum body filter wrapped with felt, the AL can corrode inside the felt and get into the carb. Just ran into that. Blowing back won't help. You can slide the felt off and clean it or replace the filter. If here is corrosion, good chance it got into the carb already.

1/2" chain is hard to come by and I am also surprised it would be on that saw but it sounds like you measured it right. How many drivers are on yours? I'll assume the bar slot is .063" .

Just remembered, I may have a loop of 1/2" x .063 that might fit a 20" bar - count your drivers.

 

[67L36Driver]

I have a clutch from a 660. It is 9/16"-18tpi Left Hand.

Make a two pin spanner wrench to fit the holes.

Browse evilbay for a Remy sprocket A-9-408. It is .404" pitch x 8 tooth.

 

[67L36Driver]

Better yet. Watch for an Oregon 10619 rim drive drum w/sprocket.

I bet 10 USD to a donut you have .404 or 7/16".

 

[syrupmaker70]

I took some pictures tonight, I'll get those up tomorrow. The threads are right hand, I'll check thee size. The flywheel nut threads right on. It has a dimpled shaft like it's made for a puller. The fella that I got it from is mailing me the manual, should be here Tuesday or Wednesday. That would be really cool. the saw looks like a 773 but without the thumb choke. (chainsaw collectors corner) Thanks.

 

[syrupmaker70]

Here are a couple of pictures of the 770. I still haven't had time to tinker with it this week...maybe over the weekend.

 

[67L36Driver]

Here are a couple of pictures of the 770. I still haven't had time to tinker with it this week...maybe over the weekend. View attachment 385577 View attachment 385578 View attachment 385579

Very nice original paint. You don't see them that good hardly at all.

Looks to be a low use saw.

 

[syrupmaker70]

I looked at Darrins chainsaws, this fella is probably on here somewhere. He restored a super 880 red and white, that one looks really nice. My dad bought a Remington electric when I was ten, I cut a lot of wood with that saw. I'am making a spanner wrench tonight.

 

[Steve NW WI]

You're in luck - well, a ways south of luck by your PM. I'm very local. Not only that, but I have a Super 754 here that's a very similar saw. Mine has the end of the crank, where the lock nut you're missing is, sawed off. I'm certain 67L36 is right that it's a threaded on LH thread clutch, looking at the IPL for the 754 you can see the two sets of threads on the crank. I've got the 10719 rim kit for mine, but haven't put it on yet.

If you don't have the skills or equipment to make a spanner, let me know and I can whip one up at work in a few minutes.

No help with the carb issues. I can adjust em if they're working right, but the ones I've rebuilt, either work or don't. Listen to the other guys though, some of em have done these things a million times.

Gimme a holler. I might even already know ya? I've lived in the Horse Creek area all my life except for a couple years on the US Army tourism plan. Always some wood to hack on here too, not always good stuff, but wood none the less.

 

[67L36Driver]

You're in luck - well, a ways south of luck by your PM. I'm very local. Not only that, but I have a Super 754 here that's a very similar saw. Mine has the end of the crank, where the lock nut you're missing is, sawed off. I'm certain 67L36 is right that it's a threaded on LH thread clutch, looking at the IPL for the 754 you can see the two sets of threads on the crank. I've got the 10719 rim kit for mine, but haven't put it on yet.

If you don't have the skills or equipment to make a spanner, let me know and I can whip one up at work in a few minutes.

No help with the carb issues. I can adjust em if they're working right, but the ones I've rebuilt, either work or don't. Listen to the other guys though, some of em have done these things a million times.

Gimme a holler. I might even already know ya? I've lived in the Horse Creek area all my life except for a couple years on the US Army tourism plan. Always some wood to hack on here too, not always good stuff, but wood none the less.

Oregon 10619.

 

[olyman]

I've lived in the Horse Creek area all my life except for a couple years on the US Army tourism plan. .[/QUOTE]
never heard that one before!!

 

[Steve NW WI]

Oregon 10619.

Sorry, Carl. Typo at the end of a long day/night.

 

[syrupmaker70]

Ah I see, That is what i suspected, a 9/16 lefty thread shaft machined down to a 7/16 righty. I put the spanner wrench on used my impact three tapes of the trigger popped righty loose. Thanks for that tip about somebody cutting the shaft on that other saw. Why would they do that ? I mean why build the saw with the two different size and direction of threads. If I tear this saw down do you know if the bearings and seals would be available from a bearing company like Gopher Bearing? I' m going to check for vacuum leaks.