removals w/ out gaffs.....

[budroe69moni]

i need some gaffs.....

like tc165 has stated, the florida scrub pines
and long leaf pines start their 1st branches a
good 40' above the ground. it seems to me
that i need some gaffs, but as usual, i've got
some questions.......
what kind should i get????
should i buy new or used????
does anyone have any for sale????
what other gear is required while using gaffs????
what do you practice on or is it just on the job training
when doing actual removals????
i'm sure that i'm missing some questions but i know that
y'all will let me know!
i've got a chance to pay for my new gear w/ one job so
let me know.
thanks again,
budroe

 

[Stumper]

I bought my Brooks used, but it is hard to argue against the virtues of buying new. There are some old threads that deal with brand preferences etc. Try a search of the archives.
As for learning how. There is an online instruction manual you can find with a pole climbing search(web seach not ASite). I had a tree in my own yard slated for removal so iIdid a bunch of up and down a couple of feet climbs on it and on an old utility pole in an out of the way place. Rig your lifeline overhead before you start up and tend your slack. if you should "gaff out" nothing untoward can/will happen. (You will want to use your lanyard as a climbing tool also)
Since you have to start fresh you might consider the new Titanium climbers.

 

[treeclimber165]

Those Titanium climbers are pricey. I bought my first pair of gaffs in a pawn shop, $125 for aluminum Buckinghams with velcro wrap pads. They had lineman's gaffs and I ended up changing them out for tree gaffs after kicking out on a thick barked Live Oak.

Even today, I probably wouldn't have a problem with used climbers IF I thoroughly inspected them for abuse/wear and replaced the gaffs and straps. (Replacement gaffs for my Kliens were $55 last week.)

Hard to say about how to train. I'm self-taught and God was watching over me on the two slips I had. Both scared me more than hurt me. I can't reccommend it but it's how most start out I think. Like Stump said, find a tree to practice on that is dead or slated for removal anyways. If you practice on a live pine tree, stop by Auto Zone and get a 99 cent can of Go-Jo type hand cleaner first. Set a rope and have someone belay you, then climb as if the lifeline wasn't there. Use your flipline and gaffs, keep your knees out and distribute your weight between your flipline and gaffs. Until you get used to it, look down at each gaff after you sink it in the wood so you understand how it is grabbing. Don't pull one gaff out until the other is set.
I need more coffee to think. If you have questions just ask.

 

[budroe69moni]

i'm fininshing up a nice job tommorrow
and i think i'm just going to sink the $$$
back into the business and buy an new
pair of gaffs. what else do i need????
what kind of flip line should i get????
budroe

 

[Greg]

Budroe, get some spikes. I'm in these FL pines (loblolly, slash,...) all the time, and if I forgot and left my spikes in the garage I'd go home to get them (for a removal!). They are a HUGE productivity save, and anyone who removes FL pines without spikes is either a showoff, or just plain ignorant. I'd go with the long spikes not the pole spikes. I use pole spikes and they work great in pines except when they are heavily coated with vines. I've had a very hard time on a number of occasions climbing trees with thick vines (1-2in) when the spike is just sticking in the vine and not the tree, vine breaks loose and you go for a little slide. Removing the vines as you go up is a major pain. I have borrowed my buddies long buckingham spikes and have had no problems with the thick vines. A good healthy pine can actually be a fun removal, you usually are up 60-80 ft taking out the top branches (the bottom branches on an 80ft tree usually start at 65ft, ---they are big poles with about 10 limbs at the very top) so you have plenty of clearance over roofs to rope down limbs. They also are pretty predictable in how they hinge. Pines are also a perfect tree to learn the fundamentals of spike climbing on. Keep your knees away from the trunk at least 4inches or so. Touch your knees to the tree and get ready for the spikes to cut out.
I like a big fat open face when taking out the top, use a pull line, and hold on for a wild ride on the skinny ones. Have fun!!
Greg

 

[monkeypuzzle]

The skinny trees are the hardest to climb for me. Spikes are to close together,lots of movement, and that thought of tree failure.

Steel core flip-line, 5/8'' lots to hold on to, I use a gibbs too.

I really hate pine removals, messy,but when you can do 6 in a morning they make for good cash flow,and lots of time in the woods looking for creatures.

I have a lot of respect for these big pines here in North Florida,It isn't me I worry about,it's the tree messing up with e in the top.

 

[treeman82]

Spencer, if you don't buy the T-2's buy some nice velcro wrap pads to go along with the climbers. I would SERIOUSLY suggest that if you do buy the velcro pads that you get them with the steel inserts. I have yet to meet anybody who likes the velcro wrap pads without the steel inserts.

 

[Kevin]

The length of gaff is important for the specific trees you`ll be climbing.
You need good boots for support.
Don`t play on the utility poles, they're full of protruding spears from being gaffed so many times and if you cut out you`ll have hundreds of little creosote slivers in your arms unless you're wearing long sleeves.

 

[Dan Flinn]

I second using the steel insert that goes across your shin. I also second the hold on after the top comes out -the rides not so bad if you are ready for it, actually it's sort of a rush.

Although I think it's pretty much been established in another thread, you will find that they are helpful in all removals. A real time saver.

Disclaimer: I realize that you don't have to have gaffs to do removals

Dan

 

[Kevin]

The Tree Climbers Companion covers the topic on page 48.

 

[The Climber]

Gaffs

Wear a pair of good boots with a thick sole because all your weight will be on your arches. Also make sure they have enough heel so the groove in front of them will hold your spikes in place securly.
Take it easy at first, you don't want to run your right gaff down the inside of your left leg.

 

[Ryan Willock]

Budroe, i have tried the bashlins with the wrap pads and didn't find them as comfortable for me as my non replacable buckinghams (3 1/2 gaff length) with the triple thick T pads and leather straps. i use a steel core flipline (5/8ths) and a gibbs with Stihl ProMarks for climbing boots with saw protection. ( i HIGHLY recommend!!!VERY comfortable!!!):angel: