Repair handle anti vibe parts on Stihl 012av

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Hello

New member to this site, best regards from Finland :)

I use to have one 011 (red one) begining of -90... bougt it from person who did not get it to run. I paid like $2 of it, I took it to parts, wash the parts, reassemble and got it back to work. It was my first own saw and I try to do some forest work with my dad. But even the saw was quite light it was hard work for 10 years old operator. Coffee mug was shaking on hands during the brake :) finally chain sprocket fail and during those days it was so expensive we newer bought new one...

Many many years later I saw about similar but 010 for sale with price of like 30 euros. I bought it just for fun, wash it, refuel and it works perfectly. Even many of the original sticker are in place. Its already the newer model with grey covers, more plastic and ignition without braker. But it is not at all like 011... much less power, or atleast I remember so. But I have use this as a spare saw for fire wood cutting. Mainly I use Echo 351 WES. And rarely Stihl 024...

Now recently I found one 012 again with really low cost. This should be now real monster compared to 010 and 011 due bigger bore size :). Even original chain sprocket having one teeth more than little sisters... Ignition coil was dead... also these very same rubber antivibration mounts. I found new aftermarket coil from china for few euros. And one company from UK was selling rubbers and some other original parst with really good price. There was also one shop in Germany called saegenspezi who have some parts available for this model. I took spare set of rubbers and new bar and chains from them... But the 012 specifig chain sprocket with extra teeth is no longer available in any place... at least I have not found. Ok, current is still ok. I have not assembled the saw yet but will do it soon when just some time...

Now finally my question for you who have more experience of this saw model. What is the correct route for spark plug wire? From coil to under of the cylinder is is easy to figure out (groove in frame). Then there is small fixing clamp under the cylinder. But how it should then officially continue from bottom of cylinder, on right side of the cylinder and finally from top right to the sparkplug... or is the wire just freely inside the cover after the clamp under the cylinder and then just going around from right side to the spark plug? All my saws have had too short wire so I do not know the original route.... from begining of -90 I remember only that it was not so nice to saw with wet cloves :)

Sorry about all possible typos. Hope my "rally english" can be anyhow understood :)

Best Regards
Juho
 
plug wire.jpg
Hello

New member to this site, best regards from Finland :)

I use to have one 011 (red one) begining of -90... bougt it from person who did not get it to run. I paid like $2 of it, I took it to parts, wash the parts, reassemble and got it back to work. It was my first own saw and I try to do some forest work with my dad. But even the saw was quite light it was hard work for 10 years old operator. Coffee mug was shaking on hands during the brake :) finally chain sprocket fail and during those days it was so expensive we newer bought new one...

Many many years later I saw about similar but 010 for sale with price of like 30 euros. I bought it just for fun, wash it, refuel and it works perfectly. Even many of the original sticker are in place. Its already the newer model with grey covers, more plastic and ignition without braker. But it is not at all like 011... much less power, or atleast I remember so. But I have use this as a spare saw for fire wood cutting. Mainly I use Echo 351 WES. And rarely Stihl 024...

Now recently I found one 012 again with really low cost. This should be now real monster compared to 010 and 011 due bigger bore size :). Even original chain sprocket having one teeth more than little sisters... Ignition coil was dead... also these very same rubber antivibration mounts. I found new aftermarket coil from china for few euros. And one company from UK was selling rubbers and some other original parst with really good price. There was also one shop in Germany called saegenspezi who have some parts available for this model. I took spare set of rubbers and new bar and chains from them... But the 012 specifig chain sprocket with extra teeth is no longer available in any place... at least I have not found. Ok, current is still ok. I have not assembled the saw yet but will do it soon when just some time...

Now finally my question for you who have more experience of this saw model. What is the correct route for spark plug wire? From coil to under of the cylinder is is easy to figure out (groove in frame). Then there is small fixing clamp under the cylinder. But how it should then officially continue from bottom of cylinder, on right side of the cylinder and finally from top right to the sparkplug... or is the wire just freely inside the cover after the clamp under the cylinder and then just going around from right side to the spark plug? All my saws have had too short wire so I do not know the original route.... from begining of -90 I remember only that it was not so nice to saw with wet cloves :)

Sorry about all possible typos. Hope my "rally english" can be anyhow understood :)

Best Regards
Juho
Hope this picture helps
 
KMSwr,
The photos I posted of my 012 AV above show the metal plate you mention is already torn loose from the rubber bushing. I have a new rubber bushing ordered and its picture shows a steel plate or washer arrached to it. I have not attempted to remove the old rubber mount from the saw body because I don't know how it is attached and how I should proceed to remove it. Your comment above seems to be saying that the rubber mount can be removed by turning it to unthread it from a threaded stud. Am I interpreting that correctly? I apologize for being confused but I'm no mechanic and have never worked on this or any saw before just relying on a Stihl shop to keep it running. My dealer however said they couldn't get parts to repair it this time and I'm just trying to fix it myself. As I mentioned the old saw runs great and cuts as well as ever and I hate to retire it. I really appreciate everyone who has taken time to give me tips about how to proceed. I need all the help I can get!
bushing.jpg
cylinder size,009,010,011,012 have a few common parts
The screw driver is pointing to the thin metal plate you have to turn out as you hold the nut on the inside,hope that helps
 
Thanx! This picture clarify well the route of spark wire. Its little bend according cooling ribs and then coming along the slot made to access cylinder bolt.

Strenght for Balhincher to replace the rubbers. Recomend to replace all of those at the same time. Then saw is once again more handy to use.
 
Thanx! This picture clarify well the route of spark wire. Its little bend according cooling ribs and then coming along the slot made to access cylinder bolt.

Strenght for Balhincher to replace the rubbers. Recomend to replace all of those at the same time. Then saw is once again more handy to use.
Hi, just started today also to change these same rubber mounts. Please do not rotate the rubber elements with pliers. Undet the rubber mount is small aluminium rib which prevent rubber part not to rotate itself. Better is to remove carb and then open the nut with 8mm wrench. Or grind wrench to be very narrow like I did... But fuel hose under bolt was so fragile I needed to remove carb anyhow to replace the hose...
 

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Hi, just started today also to change these same rubber mounts. Please do not rotate the rubber elements with pliers. Undet the rubber mount is small aluminium rib which prevent rubber part not to rotate itself. Better is to remove carb and then open the nut with 8mm wrench. Or grind wrench to be very narrow like I did... But fuel hose under bolt was so fragile I needed to remove carb anyhow to replace the hose...
Want to post an update about my effort to fix the handle of my 012 AV and to acknowledge all the helpful suggestions I received. The new rubber bushing finally arrived and I made a couple of tries to remove the old bushing that was torn apart and install the new one. They were unsuccessful in either twisting the old bushing to unscrew it or to get a wrench on the small nut adjacent to the carburetor to unscrew that. Finally I found a video showing how to remove the carb for rebuilding and realized that would let me access the small nut to remove it. I didn't have to remove the carb just loosen the two bolts holding it in place and move it to the side. The nut holding the rubber bushing in place was then easily removed and a new bushing installed. I also was able to tighten up the bolt holding the rubber bushing on the lower end of the loop handle. Now the handle feels more solid than I ever remember. It must have been loose for years. Just today I used the saw to cut up a nice dead hickory for firewood and it cut like a new saw. I wanted to thank everyone for their suggestions and help. It really helped me get this old saw going again.
Happy new year!!
 

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