Replace Stihl Elastostart Rope?

[SteveSr]

Hello,

I was looking at some old IPLs recently and they seemed to indicate that the rope on an Elastostart handle could be replaced. However, I looked at one of my handles and cannot see how it would come apart.

Have any of you ever tried or accomplished this?

 

[L34]

yes it can.
rope feeds through handle,into starter housing,then onto rope rotor.

 

[atpchas]

Try


Note there are two different Elastostart models, one for smaller engines and one for larger. Both are shown in the video.

 

[SteveSr]

Try


Note there are two different Elastostart models, one for smaller engines and one for larger. Both are shown in the video.

Thanks for an interesting video but missing a critical part... How do you get the old rope out?

It also looks like the replacement rope is a special Stihl part number and not just a regular piece of starter rope.

 

[stihltech]

Yes, we buy elastostart rope on a roll or individually. Pry the center out of the top of the handle and pull it out. Make sure the rubber in the center of the handle is not torn. If you put a new cord in a partially ripped handle, it won't take long to rip it completely.
The elastostart rope has 2 plastic pieces molded on. One for the top of the handle and one fro inside the handle. This leaves extra cord inside the handle so the shock will be taken by the rubber extending.
Check the rope bushing in the top of the starter housing. If worn through, you will be replacing the rope again soon.

 

[SteveSr]

Yes, we buy elastostart rope on a roll or individually.

How does this work? Are the molded pieces placed strategically on the roll?

Pry the center out of the top of the handle and pull it out. Make sure the rubber in the center of the handle is not torn. If you put a new cord in a partially ripped handle, it won't take long to rip it completely.

Handle is relatively new. rubber is intact.

The elastostart rope has 2 plastic pieces molded on. One for the top of the handle and one fro inside the handle. This leaves extra cord inside the handle so the shock will be taken by the rubber extending.

Is the rubber the spring or is there an additional spring inside like the smaller handle?

Check the rope bushing in the top of the starter housing. If worn through, you will be replacing the rope again soon.

Bushing is fine. The main reason that I am contemplating replacement is that the rope flattens out on the spool.

 

[SteveSr]

Here is another piece of the puzzle...

I have another saw, an 044, also with an 1128 Elastostart handle. However, side-by-side they look different, like one is an older version.

Its the one with the smaller type with the flattening rope. Both were bought new. I am now wondering if someone put an AM rope in a genuine Stihl handle? Have Elastostart ropes been AM'ed?

Here are some photos of the differences:

 

[stihltech]

There have been improvements over the years. The older ones were not uncommon to split the rubber. Very few in the shop doing this anymore.
The plastic moldings are placed on the rope in the correct spots.
The rubber is the only "spring" in the all rubber elastostart. Smaller saws trimmers, blowers,etc may use an actual spring.
The rope flattens out. See it occasionally, but has never been a reason for hard starting. IMO.
There are two sizes of elastostart rope. Look it up under parts to make sure you are using the right one. Pulleys are different also.

 

[HansFranz]

Elastostart...meh.

My 660 lacks the decomp valve, and it's got lots of compression, and sometimes it would hurt my fingers when it popped on starting, so I made my own "elastostart" from a 460 Rescue d-handle, a compression spring, and a flanged nut that I filed down to fit inside the end of the spring. Works great, no more shellshocked fingertips.

 

[ZeroJunk]

There have been improvements over the years. The older ones were not uncommon to split the rubber. Very few in the shop doing this anymore.
The plastic moldings are placed on the rope in the correct spots.
The rubber is the only "spring" in the all rubber elastostart. Smaller saws trimmers, blowers,etc may use an actual spring.
The rope flattens out. See it occasionally, but has never been a reason for hard starting. IMO.
There are two sizes of elastostart rope. Look it up under parts to make sure you are using the right one. Pulleys are different also.

I just sent him a large one for a MS660 or similar. May be too big.

 

[SteveSr]

Elastostart...meh.

My 660 lacks the decomp valve, and it's got lots of compression, and sometimes it would hurt my fingers when it popped on starting, so I made my own "elastostart" from a 460 Rescue d-handle, a compression spring, and a flanged nut that I filed down to fit inside the end of the spring. Works great, no more shellshocked fingertips.

I think that there is a progression based on operator age and engine displacement:

Regular starter handle -> Elastostart -> Rescue starter handle

So the rescue handle does not come with an Elastostart spring?

 

[HansFranz]

So the rescue handle does not come with an Elastostart spring?

Mine did not. I added a spring I found in my random parts bucket.

 

[SteveSr]

There have been improvements over the years. The older ones were not uncommon to split the rubber. Very few in the shop doing this anymore.
The plastic moldings are placed on the rope in the correct spots.
The rubber is the only "spring" in the all rubber elastostart. Smaller saws trimmers, blowers,etc may use an actual spring.
The rope flattens out. See it occasionally, but has never been a reason for hard starting. IMO.
There are two sizes of elastostart rope. Look it up under parts to make sure you are using the right one. Pulleys are different also.

Thanks for the data point! I have a replacement rope on the way.