Replacement engine for Briggs & Stratton verticle engine for logsplitter
- Thread starter newcountrygirl
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newcountrygirl
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That’s the actual fastener required. Won’t go any further than that.I tried metal filler on the other end but as you can see, it didn’t work. And no one around here will machine small engines. I’m 0 for 100! Lol
Yeah you done cracked the bolt boss. Should be a pretty simple repair for a weld shop if you take it apart.
newcountrygirl
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Yeah. I know. I blew it. It’s finding a shop to DO it is the problem. I’ll scope for some tomorrow. Thanks! Then I’ll need to find somewhere to drill it for either that bolt or a different one. Ugh!
I think the area needs to be cleaned of the existing failed epoxy fix. Surface prep cleaning needs to be more thorough and then reapply some epoxy covering a larger area.
Gabby3545
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That's what I replaced my very hard to start B&S with. (Predator from HF) More than happy with it.
Always had to pour gas into the air filter compartment to start the B&S, then get the air filter back in and cover on with the engine running. What a pain it was!
user 74409
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Your current engine is a 190cc engine with flat head, heavy flywheel and 7/8" x 3-5/32" crankshaft. Flat head engines were phased out due to stricter emission standards and were replaces with more efficient overhead valve (OHV) engines. A 160cc OHV engine is comparable to 190cc flat head engine. New engines with specs you need (OHV with 160cc or more displacement, heavy flywheel and 7/8" x 3-5/32" crankshaft) are available from smallenginewarehouse.com and brandnewengines.com. Most vertical shaft log splitters use engine with 7/8" x 1-13/16" crankshaft and are a direct swap with many vertical shaft pressure washers that can bought cheap especially if pressure washer pump failed or had freeze damage. One option for your situation is to find used pressure washer with a flat head Briggs and Stratton engine at a reasonable price and swap pressure washer parts for your damaged parts.
If you have somewhere local that fixes motorcycles they will be able to help, or will point you to someone who can.
MEKinOL
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Briggs has a reference document that provides many options. You may find a used pressure washer that uses one of the referenced engines cheap since many have bad pumps. The doc is attached. It will take a lot of research but maybe worth the effort.
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/c.../en_us/Files/FAQs/2016_RepowerEngineSpecs.pdf
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/c.../en_us/Files/FAQs/2016_RepowerEngineSpecs.pdf
user 74409
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Your log splitter application is challenging because you will need a heavy flywheel.
Heavy flywheel version.
https://www.brandnewengines.com/pro...67834&pr_ref_pid=6983248281786&pr_seq=uniform
https://www.brandnewengines.com/pro...67834&pr_ref_pid=6983248281786&pr_seq=uniform
I believe this is close to you.
Honestly, I'd probably try to remove the epoxy, get a longer bolt that will stick out the top, then double nut it. One regular nut, one lock not (a lock nut, NOT a nyloc). The last thread or two on a lock nut are more oval than round making it lock in place quite well, even in warm applications where a nyloc nut might soften and come loose. Not sure that this would work, but it's already broke so might be worth trying.
Not going to do anything for the cracks radiating out around the boss. It needs repaired, or replaced.
No, not really. There are loads of "heavy flywheel" options out there. Actually most any engine thays not on a lawn mower.
super rube
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The harbor freight 212 cc will work. Put one on dads splitter and it’s started first pull an worked flawlessly for over 5 years. We split probably 10 cords per year. You will have to cut about 1/2 off the shaft as it’s a bit longer than the Briggs, there will still be enough key way and thread to attach your pump. For a little over one hundred bucks you can’t go wrong.
I wouldn't bother trying to fix them. It will be nearly impossible to get a good weld on this. The cracks need to be ground out to remove any contaminates. By the time you grind that crack out, there's nothing left of the boss. In the end, the actual repair process is far more expensive than a new engine from HF or a used engine off of craigslist. So IF I were going to try to repair it, or get it to squeak by for one more season while I saved my pennies up for a replacement, I'd try the longer bolt and nuts. Otherwise, I'd just go buy another engine.
Looks at the cracks, longer bolts and nuts arnt going to fix anything, and it will still hemorrhage oil out around it. Not worth the wasted effort to pick up a drill, let alone attempt to gimp it along. In all seriousness if it were mine, I would have media blasted it, cleaned it up a bit, grab the tig and have at it. There are two options. Weld or replace. Then again, I suggested pretty early on to replace rather then mess around with it.
The Shooters Apprentice
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I’ve put dumper lawnmower engines in 2 splitters and they both work great. Lovejoy couplers are your friend.
newcountrygirl
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Yep! That’s the one I got. Lol. After reading the manual (yes I am THAT person), I followed the directions and the warning about the recoil was right. Severely sprained my right hand. Couple of days later, tried again with my left. Sprained that one too. Manual has a warning that the recoil can break bones, cause fractures, possible sprains. How is THAT acceptable engineering? Lol. My fix? I tied a satin pillowcase to the pull cord. Now when it does that “damaging” recoil thing, it slips thru my fingers. It’s not as powerful as my other motor.
. And who puts the throttle on the opposite side of the engines pull chord??? SMH! LolSimilar threads
