Replacement Engine For Older Huskee 22 Ton Log Splitter

[FishNJ]

I think the huskee is just under 5 gals. Far from double the flow rate. Personally I'd be happy with 1:1. 1/2 to 1/3 pump flow with the 11/13/16 gpm pumps. Mine gets hot in summer with the 16.

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[GVS]

I think the huskee is just under 5 gals. Far from double the flow rate. Personally I'd be happy with 1:1. 1/2 to 1/3 pump flow with the 11/13/16 gpm pumps. Mine gets hot in summer with the 16.

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What do you consider "hot"?Mine gets too hot to hold my hand on the cylinder for more then 5 seconds or so but the temp. is only ~ 140* F.That's not too hot for hyd. oil!

 

[mohick]

Tractors and other equip even with hydrostat drive don't even use 40 gal. Alot of cyl get so hot you cant even touch them that ain't even considered hot by a guage !!!

 

[sbhooper]

I think that I answered my question through some internet research. It looks to me like if you go up to a 13 gpm pump, the engine size needs to go up to at least 6.5 hp. I guess that I will stay at the 11gpm, as it does well anyway.

 

[WoodTick007]

I think that I answered my question through some internet research. It looks to me like if you go up to a 13 gpm pump, the engine size needs to go up to at least 6.5 hp. I guess that I will stay at the 11gpm, as it does well anyway.

 

[WoodTick007]

You might be fine with a 13-gallon per minute pump or even a 16 gallon per minute pump. It all depends on your wood conditions and how you have your relief valve set on the second stage of your pump. If you were just splitting smaller logs say 20 inches and under maybe 24 inches that are clear meaning you don't have a lot of crutches or tree branches cutting across the grain he will probably be fine. If you use your splitter like I use mine to split wood that's 35-40 inches cross with all types of crotches and tree branches in the wood and you would need the full horsepower to drive the pump.

 

[sbhooper]

I split quite a bit of big (up to 24-inch) elm and ash. I think that I will just stay with what I have until it quits! Then, maybe, I can reconsider.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

When your at the hardware store they'll have those little drawers with all different types of set screws and dowel pins and you name it Clips they'll be in there. If they only have 3/16 Square stock you can you can grind it on your grinder into a half moon. Best thing to do is hold them with a pair of vice grips and repeatedly dip it in water so you're not turning it blue and taking any type of hardening that might be into in it out. That keyway is not under horrible loads for example like a lawn mower key way. The load on that pump is constant load. What I'm saying is is there's not a shock load to be concerned with. I'm pretty excited for you as I think you'll be very happy with your motor... they're wonderful engines

normal keystock isn't hard. On mowers often they are really soft, it's the weak point so the whole works doesn't (usually) break apart if something solid gets hit.

 

[Trout 2003]

I literally cannot believe this. I put this whole damn predator engine together. Hours of work. I'm going to fire it up tonight and I pour gas into the engine and it just comes POURING out of the bottom of the engine everywhere. There is clearly something not connected there or a big Problem You wanna talk about PI$$ED off. This is what I get for going the cheep route on engines To unhook this all and take it back will be hours and the smell of gas is everywhere. Now.......This is officially a disaster!!

 

[FishNJ]

Deep breath and take the 20 minutes to investigate before going postal. Its probably something simple like a disconnected fuel line.
Worst case its four bolts, a Lovejoy, and a drive back to HF.
In the end its worth it.

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[Trout 2003]

Surprisingly I did not flip my lid haha. 3 hours later and the new engine is back on and connected. This one didn't leak fuel. I'll fire it up tomorrow after work and let it run for a break in period. Report back later.

 

[FishNJ]

Lots of beer on this project lol

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[WoodTick007]

Well Mr Trout? Did you get your splitter up and running with the new engine?
I hope your rewards exceeded your efforts.
And BTW it is always good to start and run a new or used engine before installing it. That way you can avoid redoing things . One plus to removing and replacing repeated times is that every time you do it the process goes faster...

 

[sbhooper]

Did you figure out why the original engine was leaking?

Mine has about 7ish hours of splitting on it now and it is doing great.

 

[forty]

i bought the preditor 173cc vertical engine for my huskee 22ton log splitter. as per the posts i seen here i wanted to to go horizantial but im not that good at messing with things. i had to put a coat hanger on the saftey stop to start it and a wire on the throttel to keep it running on full throttle, how can i rig this to get rid of the stop and some how work the throttle better so i can turn it off i just ran it and split until it ran out of gas??

 

[forty]

I literally cannot believe this. I put this whole damn predator engine together. Hours of work. I'm going to fire it up tonight and I pour gas into the engine and it just comes POURING out of the bottom of the engine everywhere. There is clearly something not connected there or a big Problem You wanna talk about PI$$ED off. This is what I get for going the cheep route on engines To unhook this all and take it back will be hours and the smell of gas is everywhere. Now.......This is officially a disaster!!

how did you bypass the brake and throttle on the preditor i got the 173 cc preditor vertical for my huskee 22 ton splitter i used a wire hanger on the brake and i used a wire to hold the throttle to full its annoying i split about 2 cords that way and added gas before it shut off but then i had to wait until it ran out of gas to shut it off, annoying i read a post about the honda throttle but not to sure how to put that on the darn thing.

 

[MrWhoopee]

It works, is cheaper, and faster than sending something out to be chrome plated and waiting 2 months to get the impliment back in service

Having worked in and owned a machine shop for over 20 years, I can assure you that hydraulic cylinder rods are not sent out to be chromed. Chrome rod is available in 20 ft lengths from most any steel distributor. It is hard chrome plated, centerless ground and polished for size and finish. We usually kept a bar of the most common sizes in the stock rack. An unplated rod will not last long with the abrasion from seals and dust cycling back and forth.

http://wingatealloys.com/products/s...-i34lavX9HlB7VSfCtep6D2FvMADfwv8aArdkEALw_wcB

 

[Jakers]

Having worked in and owned a machine shop for over 20 years, I can assure you that hydraulic cylinder rods are not sent out to be chromed. Chrome rod is available in 20 ft lengths from most any steel distributor. It is hard chrome plated, centerless ground and polished for size and finish. We usually kept a bar of the most common sizes in the stock rack. An unplated rod will not last long with the abrasion from seals and dust cycling back and forth.

http://wingatealloys.com/products/s...-i34lavX9HlB7VSfCtep6D2FvMADfwv8aArdkEALw_wcB

I did not know that. Learn something new every day.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Having worked in and owned a machine shop for over 20 years, I can assure you that hydraulic cylinder rods are not sent out to be chromed. Chrome rod is available in 20 ft lengths from most any steel distributor. It is hard chrome plated, centerless ground and polished for size and finish. We usually kept a bar of the most common sizes in the stock rack. An unplated rod will not last long with the abrasion from seals and dust cycling back and forth.

http://wingatealloys.com/products/s...-i34lavX9HlB7VSfCtep6D2FvMADfwv8aArdkEALw_wcB

Had a 4" rod replaced 2 years ago. (Stick cylinder on the feller buncher) Nut loosened and stripped out the threads for the 2nd time.
Couldn't just make it shorter, was almost too short before.

Cost us $22 an inch for that ~6ft rod... yup...about $1600. Whole job was almost 3k.

 

[MrWhoopee]

Had a 4" rod replaced 2 years ago. (Stick cylinder on the feller buncher) Nut loosened and stripped out the threads for the 2nd time.
Couldn't just make it shorter, was almost too short before.

Cost us $22 an inch for that ~6ft rod... yup...about $1600. Whole job was almost 3k.

Yow, that's one big rod! (That's what she said)