Replacing a Stihl QCA with the standard adjuster

[musher]

I've decided I really hate the QCA (Quick Chain Adjuster) on my MS210, and want to replace it with the standard adjustment mechanism. I called my dealer, but they're not sure which parts I'll need. They want me to stop in so we can go over the parts micro-fiche to figure it out. I have no idea what it will cost either. I won't do it if it's too expensive.

Has anyone else made this switch? Any advise if you have?

 

[Lakeside53]

I've decided I really hate the QCA (Quick Chain Adjuster) on my MS210, and want to replace it with the standard adjustment mechanism. I called my dealer, but they're not sure which parts I'll need. They want me to stop in so we can go over the parts micro-fiche to figure it out. I have no idea what it will cost either. I won't do it if it's too expensive.

Has anyone else made this switch? Any advise if you have?

You need a new side cover, the adjuster, and a few misc parts. Maybe $25 or so. See if your dealer has a used 210 or 230 or 025 etc and maybe he'll do a deal with you.

 

[pinus]

For some models cranckcases are diferent for QCA from ones without it

 

[sedanman]

All Stihls equipped with the quick adjust system have only one bar stud. A "normal" 025 has 2 studs, thus the difference in the crankcases.

 

[sawn_penn]

I've decided I really hate the QCA (Quick Chain Adjuster) on my MS210, and want to replace it with the standard adjustment mechanism. I called my dealer, but they're not sure which parts I'll need. They want me to stop in so we can go over the parts micro-fiche to figure it out. I have no idea what it will cost either. I won't do it if it's too expensive.

Has anyone else made this switch? Any advise if you have?

I don't really like the QCA either. It works just fine, but it's a bit fiddly. Especially the rolling the bar over bit - needing a screwdriver and having a tiny little screw to drop is a PITA.

By the time you are carrying a saw + chaps + helmet + wedges + hammer + fuel + oil + lunch + files + ... who cares about a scrench!

That said, I wouldn't bother to change it. Save the money for the next saw.

 

[musher]

All Stihls equipped with the quick adjust system have only one bar stud. A "normal" 025 has 2 studs, thus the difference in the crankcases.

Well, I don't hate it quite as much today as I did yesterday. I might take the advice on saving my pennies for other things.

If I still go through with it, I've got the parts diagram from the Gifts Of Wood site so I think I'll try to come up with a parts list for them to price out, or see if they have a scrap unit for parts.

As far as the other stud, there is a guide screw in place of the rearward stud and it looks to be the same size as the stud, so I'd just need to unscrew it and put a stud in its place.

 

[Lakeside53]

All Stihls equipped with the quick adjust system have only one bar stud. A "normal" 025 has 2 studs, thus the difference in the crankcases.

You can just screw in the other stud.

 

[clearance]

Hey the standard adjustment on Stihls is no walk in the park, no day at the beach either. When you get the chain where you want it and then tighten the bar nut, nuts the chain gets tighter, why? This is the other thing about my MS 200T, besides the dorky caps, I don't like. Also the same with the 361, till the chain came off and cut a hole in the fuel tank, junk! next! The 020/MS 200 saws are great little machines though. Big Husky saws do not do this, where she lays, she stays, if you know what I mean. Lakeside, you are a smart guy, whats up with this?

 

[pinus]

You can just screw in the other stud.

even the part numbers for the cranckcases are different

 

[Fish]

To convert an ms210 to the quick adjust system, , you have to remove the
adjuster, and a bar stud. It also has a different bumper spike. Then you put
in a spacer block in the adjuster area, and a screw in the stud hole. So to do
it the other way, you just have to reverse this process.
As far as seeing a different bar stud part number, I do not see it in my media cat.
But I would check with the dealer, he might have the parts leftover from
such an instore swap, but most dealers put these parts back on the new parts shelf, as most of these conversions are done on new saws.
You also could save a little money and go with the front/screw style
tensioner.
As far as the tensioning woes mentioned in the other post, I would suspect
that there is another explanation for the troubles.

 

[Lakeside53]

Hey the standard adjustment on Stihls is no walk in the park, no day at the beach either. When you get the chain where you want it and then tighten the bar nut, nuts the chain gets tighter, why? This is the other thing about my MS 200T, besides the dorky caps, I don't like. Also the same with the 361, till the chain came off and cut a hole in the fuel tank, junk! next! The 020/MS 200 saws are great little machines though. Big Husky saws do not do this, where she lays, she stays, if you know what I mean. Lakeside, you are a smart guy, whats up with this?

I never have this problem (and tighten a lot of bars on new and used saws each day), unless, you don't pick up the bar tip when initially tightening the bar nuts..... Tightening the bar nuts will increase tension if you don't do this. Try it.

The only other times I have had a problems with chain tension varying is with sprockets that are badly worn, and tightening the bar down move the chains to another more or less worn area.

 

[Lakeside53]

even the part numbers for the crankcases are different

They change part numbers on large assemblies like the engine housing (it's not a crankcase) often, but that doesn't mean it's not compatible... Because the different housings contains different parts, but are shipped with partial assembly.

 

[clearance]

Lakeside, thanks. I always tighten the nuts when the bar tip is resting on something, this way the bar is where forces will push it when cutting, or so I was taught and have always done. But then I have usually run Huskys or older Stihls, newer Stihls just a little, with the exception of the 020/ms200. I will try this out.

 

[musher]

You need a new side cover, the adjuster, and a few misc parts. Maybe $25 or so. See if your dealer has a used 210 or 230 or 025 etc and maybe he'll do a deal with you.

X​

More like $60. At least for new parts, and probably at full MSRP, which I'm sure my dealer charges.

Thats for the stud, tensioner assembly, chain catcher, bumper spike, cover and collar nuts.

 

[Lakeside53]

sell your old parts on ebay and buy used. I figured your dealer would help out if you bought the saw from him....

 

[musher]

I bought the MS361 from them (and a bruscutter and a leaf blower), but the MS210 was given to me new by my in-laws, bought from their local dealer.

This dealer is also a motorcycle, snowmobile and ATV shop, so saws are just a portion of their business.