replacing top end of husky 281Xp

[cmcclure622]

so i bought a used 281xp to do some milling. after cutting a few slabs it wasnt runing right seemed ajusted so i started ripping it apart to see what was up. i fount the oil pump ajustment was sheared off unrelated to my issues with it running but am replacing the pump. i took the top end apart to check the piston and i had a small chunk cracked out of the bottom edge of the skift about 1/2 inch up and 5/8 inch wide. i ordered the meteor pison kit and all new gaskets as well as a decompresion valve to aid starting when im in the middle of a slabbing cut. Any advice? ive never rebuilt a saw before. Im good with small engines and can figure most anything out but any insight would be welcomed. after the top end is installed i know its gonna need a break in period how easy do i need to take it on te saw should i avoid slabbing for a few tanks of gas? the meteor kit is a 54mm stock measured 52mm so i know i should see a small power increase.
Thanks
Corey

 

[Czed]

so i bought a used 281xp to do some milling. after cutting a few slabs it wasnt runing right seemed ajusted so i started ripping it apart to see what was up. i fount the oil pump ajustment was sheared off unrelated to my issues with it running but am replacing the pump. i took the top end apart to check the piston and i had a small chunk cracked out of the bottom edge of the skift about 1/2 inch up and 5/8 inch wide. i ordered the meteor pison kit and all new gaskets as well as a decompresion valve to aid starting when im in the middle of a slabbing cut. Any advice? ive never rebuilt a saw before. Im good with small engines and can figure most anything out but any insight would be welcomed. after the top end is installed i know its gonna need a break in period how easy do i need to take it on te saw should i avoid slabbing for a few tanks of gas? the meteor kit is a 54mm stock measured 52mm so i know i should see a small power increase.
Thanks
Corey

Welcome to the site
Personally I'd flush out the bottom end and clean the whole saw thoroughly
And make sure the bearings are good.
If so new seals on that vintage saw
Are recommended
Plus new fuel line and a carb kit.
The controversy is always
oil
use whatever ratio you like
And personally
I heat cycle my fresh rebuilds a couple of time's.
While other's go WFO
From first start.
I'd break it in a few tanks before milling.

 

[Woodslasher]

so i bought a used 281xp to do some milling. after cutting a few slabs it wasn't running right seemed adjusted so i started ripping it apart to see what was up. i fount the oil pump adjustment was sheared off unrelated to my issues with it running but am replacing the pump. i took the top end apart to check the piston and i had a small chunk cracked out of the bottom edge of the skirt about 1/2 inch up and 5/8 inch wide. I ordered the meteor piston kit and all new gaskets as well as a decompression valve to aid starting when I'm in the middle of a slabbing cut. Any advice? I've never rebuilt a saw before. I'm good with small engines and can figure most anything out but any insight would be welcomed. after the top end is installed i know its gonna need a break in period how easy do i need to take it on the saw should i avoid slabbing for a few tanks of gas? the meteor kit is a 54mm stock measured 52mm so i know i should see a small power increase.
Thanks
Corey

I would re-use your original cylinder and just get a Meteor piston or buy an oem Husqvarna 288 piston/cylinder kit, they aren't too bad price wise. When I was working at a Husky shop I recall list being about $190, but I'd ask if they could help you on the price. Aftermarket cylinders tend to produce less power than an oem cylinder, even if oem is 52mm and a/m is 54mm. Yes, I would avoid milling with it for a few tanks if you put a new top end on it. I'd replace your bearings while you're in there, especially since you want to use it for milling.

 

[cmcclure622]

Welcome to the site
Personally I'd flush out the bottom end and clean the whole saw thoroughly
And make sure the bearings are good.
If so new seals on that vintage saw
Are recommended
Plus new fuel line and a carb kit.
The controversy is always
oil
use whatever ratio you like
And personally
I heat cycle my fresh rebuilds a couple of time's.
While other's go WFO
From first start.
I'd break it in a few tanks before milling.

Thanks I run 40:1 in it for the extra oil I’d rather change plugs more often and keep her lubed up good with the milling. The carb was rebuilt right before I bought it so I’m not gonna touch that but I bought the new seals kit and everything so all gaskets and seals will be replaced. Thank you I appreciate the response!
Corey

 

[cmcclure622]

I would re-use your original cylinder and just get a Meteor piston or buy an oem Husqvarna 288 piston/cylinder kit, they aren't too bad price wise. When I was working at a Husky shop I recall list being about $190, but I'd ask if they could help you on the price. Aftermarket cylinders tend to produce less power than an oem cylinder, even if oem is 52mm and a/m is 54mm. Yes, I would avoid milling with it for a few tanks if you put a new top end on it. I'd replace your bearings while you're in there, especially since you want to use it for milling.

The meteor kit wasn’t bad I paid $119 and it came highly recommended over OEM from a couple guys. I plan to do a small bit of touch up to the jug smoothing hard edges at the ports and such. Thanks for the advice I appreciate it!
Corey

 

[Clyde85]

I just done a 61 Husqvarna in October. I left it a little ritch for the first 10 tanks. I put new bearings seals and gaskets, OEM piston and rings, and I was able to clean up and reuse the cylinder. It runs great now. It's a 1988 grey top. I also run 40:1.

 

[cmcclure622]

I just done a 61 Husqvarna in October. I left it a little ritch for the first 10 tanks. I put new bearings seals and gaskets, OEM piston and rings, and I was able to clean up and reuse the cylinder. It runs great now. It's a 1988 grey top. I also run 40:1.

Looks mint. Wish I could say mine was in the same shape. She was worked hard. When I bought her she ran mint so I don’t know if the piston broke after I bought it or if it was before the missing chunk is bellow the seals so I would have thought it wouldn’t effect it’s operation much but I’m assuming it’s messing up the balance of the piston making one side heavier than the other.

 

[Clyde85]

If you do it right now it will last another 30 years or so.

 

[Clyde85]

I payed 15 cad dollars for that 61 and put 535 into parts but 147.00 was the chain brake assembly. I don't feel bad about it though. Try and replace it with a new 60 cc Husqvarna saw for 550.00 cad.

 

[cmcclure622]

I payed 15 cad dollars for that 61 and put 535 into parts but 147.00 was the chain brake assembly. I don't feel bad about it though. Try and replace it with a new 60 cc Husqvarna saw for 550.00 cad.

I prefer the old girls anyways they don’t make them like they use to. I paid a bit much for my 281xp but it’s hard to find big saws in my area not a lot of guys in New England have a need for 80 plus cc saws. After this top end replacement I put a new clutch new oil pump 36” cannon super bar and some replacement fasteners I got the saw for $550 usd sand I have about $500 more into her so I could havre almost got a new saw I guess but I’ve learned a lot with this one. So she has paid me back with harsh earned knowledge haha.

 

[Clyde85]

Same with mine. It's the first one I completely stripped down.i am more than pleased with how it turned out. The new bearings Husqvarna sent were skf 6202 c3's by the way. I think your saw should be the same.

 

[cmcclure622]

Same with mine. It's the first one I completely stripped down.i am more than pleased with how it turned out. The new bearings Husqvarna sent were skf 6202 c3's by the way. I think your saw should be the same.

Ok thanks I believe they were replaced when it was rebuilt before I bought it but ill get my eyes on them when my parts get here. This saw is my money maker for my side business milling slabs so I’m rushing to get it done... while also trying to tell myself to slow down and make sure it’s all done the way it should be because it’s gonna cost more in the end otherwise. I have a stand of trees I can cut and mill up for free but I only have about a month to get what I can felled and slabbed before the property is sold and I no longer have access. If I had the money I’d just buy a back up saw but I invested in a bandsaw mill a couple weeks back and those suckers are not cheap!

 

[Clyde85]

If it was already rebuilt I would make sure to change all seals and gaskets to make sure there are no air leaks so you don't have to do this again.

 

[cmcclure622]

If it was already rebuilt I would make sure to change all seals and gaskets to make sure there are no air leaks so you don't have to do this again.

Yea I got the full gasket and seals kit I plan on swapping them all out. The last time I had it going it ran ok Idled good but once I was in the wood it bogged down and died so I’m gonna try to start from scratch as much as I can

 

[cmcclure622]

I would re-use your original cylinder and just get a Meteor piston or buy an oem Husqvarna 288 piston/cylinder kit, they aren't too bad price wise. When I was working at a Husky shop I recall list being about $190, but I'd ask if they could help you on the price. Aftermarket cylinders tend to produce less power than an oem cylinder, even if oem is 52mm and a/m is 54mm. Yes, I would avoid milling with it for a few tanks if you put a new top end on it. I'd replace your bearings while you're in there, especially since you want to use it for milling.

 

[cmcclure622]

Yea I got the full gasket and seals kit I plan on swapping them all out. The last time I had it going it ran ok Idled good but once I was in the wood it bogged down and died so I’m gonna try to start from scratch as much as I can

Well it went good did some touch up on the jug smoothing and sanding the rough edges. They didn’t send my decompression valve so I ran out and got a plug for now. She took a bit to kick over but she ran good and idled good gotta tinker with the adjustments tomorrow and run a couple tanks thru her before I get her back in the mill. I tried to get the bottom end apart but the flywheel would not come off I dunno if I was missing something or if she’s just seized on there cock stiff. Lubed everything good and prayed I didn’t mess somehting up. Time will tell I guess but she seemed to run nice I’m not great at carb adjustment still learning and I hear these tillotson carbs are finicky

 

[KASH]

As my dear old dad always said if shes running good leave her alone.
Kash