cuinrearview
Red saw lover
Those look Chinese. If so, don't use those.
Stihl 034 won't start & needs top end kit
- Thread starter jpan
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
All you need are a few washers
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
You should post a pic of the inside of the cylinder
That a China kit, if you use the cir-clips they will fail may take a while but will fail in the end
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
You won't have to worry about the muffler if you clean up the 034 cylinder and get a meteor piston. It will run better than that 48mm China job too. If you want some help with the jug send me a PM, I'll clean it up for free.
jpan
ArboristSite Member
The kit is a Hyway kit that’s nikasil plated. I ended up going this route since it’s a friends saw and he wants to keep the rebuild cost low. It’s not his main saw so it may see a couple hours of use a year tops when we cut firewood to stack in the barn.
I can definitely get stihl circlips if those are better. These seem really stiff for what that’s worth.
Here’s a picture of the new cylinder and exhaust port. Old cylinder pics I believe were posted a page or so back. New cylinder exhaust and intake ports are surprisingly smooth with almost zero slag.
I can definitely get stihl circlips if those are better. These seem really stiff for what that’s worth.
Here’s a picture of the new cylinder and exhaust port. Old cylinder pics I believe were posted a page or so back. New cylinder exhaust and intake ports are surprisingly smooth with almost zero slag.
Attachments
jpan
ArboristSite Member
I truly appreciate that offer! But I Was able to get the 036 muffler so hopefully it’ll work!
BuckthornBonnie
ArboristSite Guru
Some Hyway 1125 kits are “ok.” I have one from 2013-ish that’s still alive. Moderate use, oem circlips.
jpan
ArboristSite Member
that’s what I’m hoping for as well. I’ll get oem circlips. I also got cabre rings to use.
drf255
BAD CAD
Adding an 036 meteor may be cheaper. They come with circlips and cabers that match the piston. Oem circlips can be a thinner gauge wire than the AM groove, so be careful there.
The meteor pins are usually different lengths than the oem pin, so stick with the supplied pin.
That jug actually looks pretty good. Appears to be modeled after the 034S jug. I’m not loving the square exhaust roof, but it will likely be fine. Even more reason to go caber as they are factory beveled.
jpan
ArboristSite Member
Well boys after 10+ years not running and being covered in caked on saw dust and oil she’s alive!
It did flood out on me once after I initially got it started then let it sit for about 5 minutes or so. Unplugged the pulse line and even dumped fuel out of there but I also had previously shot fuel in the carb to try and get it to fire so that could have been it possibly.
need to tune it. No problem tuning saws that are broken in but is there any procedure I need to follow to get it tuned before we use it? Carb is set between 1 and 1.25 turns out on both high and low. Not going to the farm yet so just working on getting it tuned good enough to fire and run.
hopefully these videos show up right.
It did flood out on me once after I initially got it started then let it sit for about 5 minutes or so. Unplugged the pulse line and even dumped fuel out of there but I also had previously shot fuel in the carb to try and get it to fire so that could have been it possibly.
need to tune it. No problem tuning saws that are broken in but is there any procedure I need to follow to get it tuned before we use it? Carb is set between 1 and 1.25 turns out on both high and low. Not going to the farm yet so just working on getting it tuned good enough to fire and run.
hopefully these videos show up right.
My error. Yes it can be done, The Stihl dealer told me that the case had to be split to install new crank seals on an 034 AV. Then he added another $100 to the bill quotation for doing it. I found out later that the seals were OK and they still are on the saw shown above that I rebuilt. I used it yesterday and it runs like a champ.
BTW, I've never gone back to that dealer for anything.
My favorite Stihl dealer will pull and install seals for $15, if flywheel/clutch/oil pump are off and cases clean
The secret here is "... if flywheel/clutch/oil pump are off and case is clean..." That condition was never presented to me. I doubt if many customers would even be able to accomplish such a mission.
jpan
ArboristSite Member
So I’ve got it running and somewhat tuned. Using a tach it isles around 2800 or so and the low screw is about 1 1/8 turn out. Did a quick high end adjust. Started at factory 1 turn and it was really fat and burbling and throwing fuel out of the exhaust a bit so used the tach and leaned it down a hair to around 12,000 rpms leaving some room. That’s about 3/4 out on the high screw.
I’ll leave it there until I can get it in some wood and see what it does.
only problem so far is that it’s leaking fuel out from under the spark plug. It’s a new ngk BPM7RA torqued to 25nm per manual. Maybe just a bad crush washer? I did torque and u torque it a few times yesterday. Any ideas??
I’ll leave it there until I can get it in some wood and see what it does.
only problem so far is that it’s leaking fuel out from under the spark plug. It’s a new ngk BPM7RA torqued to 25nm per manual. Maybe just a bad crush washer? I did torque and u torque it a few times yesterday. Any ideas??
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
Tighten it down more
jpan
ArboristSite Member
afraid of over tightening. Do you guys run them tighter than 25nm? Normally I’ve always just used the scrench and never torqued but trying to get it set up good
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
Well. Leaking is not set up good lol. It's possible on the AM jug that the pad where the washer lies is not perfectly squared up to the threads in the plug hole.
jpan
ArboristSite Member
touche! Meant the carb is decently set. I felt the pad on the jug and to me it looks flat. New plug does the same thing though
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
Tighten it down a little more. Those washers resist and then crush a little.
