Review Oregon PowerNow Cordless Chainsaw

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Yes

I don't know what to tell you about the sprocket. Maybe see if there is an Oregon part number on it that will tell you if it is compatible with another saw brand/model. As for the chain, I think that you would be better off finding a pre-made loop the right length - an Oregon rep told me that the PowerSharp chain does not seat well in most chain breakers, resulting in damaged links. I am sure you could still do it, but would take more effort than with conventional chain.

Might be an easier experiment to do using just 91PX/VG/VX chain if you need custom lengths.

Chain speed would remain the same (ft/second) regardless of the bar length.

Philbert

Yes, knew that about the bar length, the speed increase comes from more pins on the drive sprocket. Just wanted to also try and keep the torque up a little, in the cut, from reduced chain friction going along the shorter bar. I don't know how much it would effect it, just wanted to know. So far, I like the PS system fine, as I did way back in the day when all I had was a craftsman plug in that had it. It always worked fine for me then.

Although..in advance..I am tempted to think the oregon engineer guys already have done this and put what works the best on the saw as for sprocket and bar and chain, etc. What works best and what balances the best and to give joe homeowner something that can cut up the largest branches that might typically fall in the yard.

It's the same with any saw, speed versus torque, finding a sweet spot that just works well with whatever engine or motor you have, in what wood ya got. But, you can't always guarantee the perfect wood for your system either. That's one reason why I tried it in a 30+ inch oak log, buried, I found out it will cut it. Slow, but it'll do it. You can cut from two sides, meaning it would handle, with some charges, even some pretty beefy downed branches or larger trees, as-is, stock.


Another sprocket with one more pin (or two, I don't care), if I can find one that fits, just can't be that expensive, good for a hoot more than anything..mods...

I know you know from running it, it needs to crack 10 thou RPMs somehow, that equivalent chain speed, to take it to the next serious level. One or two pins won't do it, but it'll get it quite a bit closer. After that is amateur EE time....
 
I know you know from running it, it needs to crack 10 thou RPMs somehow, that equivalent chain speed, to take it to the next serious level. One or two pins won't do it, but it'll get it quite a bit closer. After that is amateur EE time....


Run 2 batteries in series - see what it does at 80 amps!

Philbert
 
volts

Run 2 batteries in series - see what it does at 80 amps!

Philbert

ya, that's the easy way to get more power in a DC motor, run more volts, just I haven't scoped the computer interface yet. That's a large part of the price of the saw and why it works and I don't own an electron microscope to do a sliced wafer breakdown on the chips.nor would I know what I was looking at anyway..snort. Just an omega nerd here, that is alpha level hyper nerd stuff....those guys would just hire a harvester and put remote controls on it to go cut wood anyway......****

It is *most likely* possible to up the volts a scosh though....The RC hotrodders would most likely be way more into that stuff and would have a better idea on more exotic motors, etc.

Next rainy day I'll take it apart and look at the components. I've been working on my gasser saws in my spare time lately, that and my truck and repairing the greenhouse before winter..and cutting wood.

"spare" time, who thought that up, it's silly....


**** boss told me a story about one time back a spell when he had a ton of loose cash, he bought a radio controlled commercial big mower, one that could cut on some unreal slopes, etc. Not a backyard mower, a big industrial commercial mower..just radio controlled. It was for doing dangerous to humans mowing jobs next to highways and stuff, real steep stuff. So he has this thing out and is sitting in a chair over here and runs it-remote controlled-across the street and starts mowing his old geezer buddy's yard for him, another rich dude. The dude comes out and is flabbergasted, here is this pilotless mower running across his yard.

So, eventually the boss walks over and gives him the controls and the other guy is running it, his wife walks out, hands him a blank check sez "he has got to have that toy!" So he sold it to her, for him. I never got to see it though, and that other geezer moved over the other side of town to his larger ranch, so that is where the mower is now.

Supposedly, they were always doing that to each other, one would buy something cool, the other guy would immediately buy it from him, it was the deal, got cash, you had to sell..pretty funny actually. "hey, lookit my new caddy limo"...blank check goes over... "you mean MY new caddy limo"..all kinza stuff, tractors, cars, etc.
 
Do not apply overvoltage

Hello,
I am an Engineer at Oregon PowerNow. I have reviewed the comments regarding putting two (2) batteries in series to increase speed and power. I want to advise that this should not be done.

The chainsaw motor and electronics are designed for 40V max DC. Putting two batteries in series will provide 80 V max to the saw. This high voltage would overload the system and cause the electronic control board to short and burn out causing smoke and/or fire. If the board did allow the voltage to get to the motor for more than a few seconds, the motor would also burn out. Neither the electronic control borard not the motor are designed for 80 Volts.
 
Hello,
I am an Engineer at Oregon PowerNow. I have reviewed the comments regarding putting two (2) batteries in series to increase speed and power. I want to advise that this should not be done.

The chainsaw motor and electronics are designed for 40V max DC. Putting two batteries in series will provide 80 V max to the saw. This high voltage would overload the system and cause the electronic control board to short and burn out causing smoke and/or fire. If the board did allow the voltage to get to the motor for more than a few seconds, the motor would also burn out. Neither the electronic control borard not the motor are designed for 80 Volts.

While my comment was meant sarcastically, I appreciate your common sense caution, especially, since you have a much deeper understanding of the saw's architecture.

We are always interested in learning the technical stuff behind these tools, so please feel free to add anything more you can tell us about the inner workings, or the design choices made.

And welcome to A.S.!

Philbert
 
Hello,
I am an Engineer at Oregon PowerNow. I have reviewed the comments regarding putting two (2) batteries in series to increase speed and power. I want to advise that this should not be done.

The chainsaw motor and electronics are designed for 40V max DC. Putting two batteries in series will provide 80 V max to the saw. This high voltage would overload the system and cause the electronic control board to short and burn out causing smoke and/or fire. If the board did allow the voltage to get to the motor for more than a few seconds, the motor would also burn out. Neither the electronic control borard not the motor are designed for 80 Volts.


Howdy! There's no way I was actually going to do that (two batts in series) to this spiffy saw! Just commenting on DC motors in general is all. I am fully aware of the nuances and technicalities involved in such an endeavor.

I'd bet a nickle though you have a few volts safety margin built in though...

As long as you are here, any hints you can give us of any new products to use the existing battery, or attachments like a pole saw for the existing powerhead? Or a tophandle? I've heard a couple comments now on a saw with that configuration. I like rear handles myself, but the heavy pruners and climbers like and use tophandles a lot more.

Thanks in advance, hope you liked our input on using the saws so far. I think these saws rock! They do *much* better than I first anticipated, and since I have gotten a lot more familiar with using them, I have upped productivity to a large degree (as you can see in my reports above)

Side issue on powersharp

Can the battery saw powersharp stone and mount be used on the older model previous generation on board powersharp system saws? If not, any thought to making upgrade models to fit?

Any word on a longer stronger powersharp system for general chainsaws? Some guys have expressed interest in a rough duty bar and chain with the external cassette system. like a 20 inch bar on a medium duty level gas saw.

Thanks again
 
Side issue on powersharp

Can the battery saw powersharp stone and mount be used on the older model previous generation on board powersharp system saws? If not, any thought to making upgrade models to fit?

Any word on a longer stronger powersharp system for general chainsaws? Some guys have expressed interest in a rough duty bar and chain with the external cassette system. like a 20 inch bar on a medium duty level gas saw.

Thanks again

Zogger,

The stone used on the 40 V PowerNow chain saw has a radius specifically designed for the current version of PowerSharp chain on a 6 tooth drive sprocket. No consideration was given to fit the 1980's and earlier versions of top sharpening chains or the chain saws. Even if the stone radius is close to what was used on a system you may have, the chain will not have the diamond coated dresser links. With out the dresser links the stone will not get dressed when you sharpen. A poorly shaped groove will form in the stone and dull the chain so your cutting speed will drop off after a few sharpenings.

There is a chain being developed to fit larger saws that are typically used with 20 inch long bars. No release date has been set yet.
 
Free Chainsaw

Oregon is having a drawing for one of their battery-powered chainsaws on their FaceBook page. This is the one with the longer life battery.

Free is one of the best kinds of chainsaws!

Philbert

Oregon PowerNow Tools
OREGON PowerNow CS250E Chainsaw Give-Away!!! Now’s your chance to win OREGON’s new 40V cordless saw. We will be announcing the winner on February 1st, 2012. Complete the 5-minute survey at the following link to submit your entry . . . .
 
Oregon is having a drawing for one of their battery-powered chainsaws on their FaceBook page. This is the one with the longer life battery.

Free is one of the best kinds of chainsaws!

Philbert

thanks for the update, Philbert!

Hey guys, these really are spiffy, goferit, enter the drawing!

I already have one, so I won't enter, but it would be neat if someone from here won it!

Oregon PowerNow Tools | Facebook
 
I tell you what that is an Awesome write up on it!!! I'm sold!!
How in the world did you get a gig like that!!!!?????
 
I tell you what that is an Awesome write up on it!!! I'm sold!!
How in the world did you get a gig like that!!!!?????

--just ratchet jawing here on the site. Bro Philbert was talking about them, and powersharp and so on, I opined that I really liked battery technology and that lithium ion tech was really opening up the portable tools market a lot, compared to the old nicads and NiMh batts. They contacted me to be a test cutter,(and also leading me to clean out my PM box so this could happen, thanks to Philbert again), a date was set to meet at the farm here, and that was it.

Ha! I cut loads better with it now over that first day, you have to adjust to it, it's a little different from running a gas saw. Chain speed is lower so you need to come into the cut with a little more authority and perpendicularly, then let the chain work, and that top sharpened chain cuts differently as well. Then you find the torque from the electric motor is great. Sort of like all those real old saws used to be, slower, but beefier for what they are.

That saw, and the fiskars hatchet and splitter, you're set, you can get the work done.

I *imagine* they will eventually have more tools to use the same battery with, that will be cool.
 
--just ratchet jawing here on the site. Bro Philbert was talking about them, and powersharp and so on, I opined that I really liked battery technology and that lithium ion tech was really opening up the portable tools market a lot, compared to the old nicads and NiMh batts. They contacted me to be a test cutter,(and also leading me to clean out my PM box so this could happen, thanks to Philbert again), a date was set to meet at the farm here, and that was it.

Ha! I cut loads better with it now over that first day, you have to adjust to it, it's a little different from running a gas saw. Chain speed is lower so you need to come into the cut with a little more authority and perpendicularly, then let the chain work, and that top sharpened chain cuts differently as well. Then you find the torque from the electric motor is great. Sort of like all those real old saws used to be, slower, but beefier for what they are.

That saw, and the fiskars hatchet and splitter, you're set, you can get the work done.

I *imagine* they will eventually have more tools to use the same battery with, that will be cool.


A 12-14' pole saw would be Awesome!! Hot seller I'd bet. I'd buy one!
 
Cold Weather Trial

Took the Oregon saw to a G-T-G / charity wood cutting event today ( http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/170526-40.htm ) in West-Central Wisconsin, hoping to get some idea of how the saw performs in colder weather. Especially interested to see if the battery performance drops.

Temps were in the low 30's F, which is unseasonably warm for this time of year. Topped off the batteries the night before in the charger, and kept them in the house until about 2-1/2 hours before cutting time, but even then they were in my car, while driving, so they should not have gotten too cold.

Cut the wood in the photo, below. About 15 pieces of 5 to 8 inch diameter oak. Took a full 'Endurance' battery pack (the larger, 2.4 Ah version) and half of a second one (based on the LED charge indicator lights). The saw stopped several times in the cuts - assuming that it was the overload protection cutting in. I hit the sharpener a few times to make sure that the chain was sharpened.

As noted in some earlier comments, I think that this saw is best suited for wood up to about 4 inches in diameter, with occasional cutting of larger stuff. This wood, today, was definitely at the larger end of it's capacity, but was on the smaller side of what was being cut at this firewood event. Although I did cut some 14 inch spruce with this saw in warmer weather, this was oak, and it was frozen, which slowed down even the larger, gasoline saws used.

So I really did not get a good evaluation of how cold temperatures might affect the battery performance - this might need to be done in a more controlled test. But I did get to further evaluate the capacity of the saw, and see how it is affected by by conditions such as frozen wood. It could be used for pruning or removing downed limbs following an ice storm, but probably would not be the saw to take the big trunks off of your driveway.

Philbert

P2282818.jpg
 
Took the Oregon saw to a G-T-G / charity wood cutting event today ( http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/170526-40.htm ) this was oak, and it was frozen, which slowed down even the larger, gasoline saws used.

but probably would not be the saw to take the big trunks off of your driveway.

Philbert

Philbert does however, recommend the use of one of these (which was NOT slowed noticably by frozen oak) for the larger trunks on your driveway. Your tester Philbert playing with an 090G (owned by member Beefie):

aefd0c71-3338-3e04.jpg


Phil, if ya need some test material, I've got tons of 5' pine 4x4s here from work. If you want to stop out some cold day, or I could get em to ya, you're welcome to em. Cost to me was nada, and I can get more any time I want. They should be a nice size match for your saw, and fairly repeatable.
 
a few questions on the Oregon saw that Oregon may not want to answer,

what kind of cells are in the batt pack, most batt packs even smart ones have a series of individual batts within the pack, does the 40v pack have many cells or one solid cell (within the pack)?

what is the fine specs on the batt,(couldn't find them at oregon sight)?
do they make a direct cord? probbally not, but what was the power requirements for a cord power supply?

it would be nice to not have to spend 300 on additional batts, i rebuild my old dead batt packs, (did you know a cordless dremil takes 4 AA batts within its pack, or most cordless drill packs are C or D rechargeables)
it would be nice if there was a cord option.
 
a few questions on the Oregon saw that Oregon may not want to answer,

what kind of cells are in the batt pack, most batt packs even smart ones have a series of individual batts within the pack, does the 40v pack have many cells or one solid cell (within the pack)?

what is the fine specs on the batt,(couldn't find them at oregon sight)?
do they make a direct cord? probbally not, but what was the power requirements for a cord power supply?

The Oregon reps I have spoken with have been pretty up front in answering questions. Just make sure that you get a hold of one of the 'PowerNow' guys (this line), instead of a technical rep who works mostly with chains, grinders, etc.

I can tell you what is printed on the battery packs: 'Lithium Ion Battery Pack, Model:B400E, 37V, 2.4Ah/89Wh, Made in Japan'. This is the larger battery.

As I understand it, most battery packs are multi-cell - the guys at a Batteries Plus store showed me this. I have not opened up the case on this one (and don't plan to while it is still working!). I don't fully understand the 37/40 volt thing - this may be like some tools that used to state 'develops X horse power'; one is in a test stand and one is in use.

The saw itself says 'Made in China', but they noted that there are 'only a few manufacturers' making these types of batteries in Japan. They did not tell me which one makes theirs, but if you know batteries, apparently, you can probably narrow it down.

The batteries recharge in a separate charger (included) - not on the saw. If you want to recharge in your vehicle, you need to use a 12V to 120V inverter - there is no direct 12V option, but apparently, you can use one of the smaller, less expensive inverters ($20?).

You cannot run the saw directly off of 120V current. If you want to do that, you can buy a corded electric saw for much less money, and have unlimited run time. The trade off is the convenience and the portability with the battery powered saw.

Philbert
 
a few questions on the Oregon saw that Oregon may not want to answer,

what kind of cells are in the batt pack, most batt packs even smart ones have a series of individual batts within the pack, does the 40v pack have many cells or one solid cell (within the pack)?

what is the fine specs on the batt,(couldn't find them at oregon sight)?
do they make a direct cord? probbally not, but what was the power requirements for a cord power supply?

it would be nice to not have to spend 300 on additional batts, i rebuild my old dead batt packs, (did you know a cordless dremil takes 4 AA batts within its pack, or most cordless drill packs are C or D rechargeables)
it would be nice if there was a cord option.

I haven't take any of mine apart, but I'd be surprised if it is anything but a group of individual cells. Every batt pack I have ever looked at was like that. The pack has some built in test and display circuitry as well.

They claim 1,000 recharges before replacement. By then, some years down the road, maybe they will have a recycle deal, turn in an old one for rebuilding, get some credit, etc.

Yes, a cord option would be nice. The routing would be hard the way the saw is designed though, batt pack at the top.

All I have are the numbers on the battery pack charger, they are (your household current) then 60 watts for the charger draw, 1.25 amps and 41.50 VDC for the output.

The E series batt itself reads 37 volt, 2.4Ah/89Wh

use/store between 0 and 40 C

What are LiIons single cells anyway, like 3 and small change volts? Something like that?



I take it you bought one, or are thinking about it?

Anyway, I bet you already know the answer to your overall question as regards rebuilding packs in general...no manufacturer wants you too, will tell you how, will advise don't open them up, yada yada. I don't expect them to be any different with this product. All sorts of liability issues and so on, and once you start getting up into bignum DC volts it can get.."exciting"

I know the laws get rad past 48 VDC.
 
mcdarvy - The Standard battery has 10 Li-Ion cells and the Endurance battery has 20 Li-Ion cells. We do not have a corded version of the saw, nor do we make an attachment to do so. A standard battery retails for $149.99 and the Endurance battery retails for $199.99. We do not recommend tampering with the batteries in any way.

Philbert - 40 volts is the measurement of the battery when it comes off the charger. When the saw is running, the nominal voltage is 37. We have a 12V DC charger coming out this summer. When charging the batteries on an inverter/generator we recommend using an inverter/generator that outputs a pure sine wave to avoid damage to the batteries. This is not unique to our batteries. All battery technologies would be affected.

zogger - There is a phone number on the bottom of the battery for recycling. This is a service we have already paid for. At this point in time we do not have a battery exchange program.

Hope that helps!

Luke
OREGON PowerNow Tools
 
Philbert - 40 volts is the measurement of the battery when it comes off the charger. When the saw is running, the nominal voltage is 37. We have a 12V DC charger coming out this summer.

Thanks Luke. Look forward to the DC charger.

I actually have not tried an inverter yet because I do not want to drain my car battery when it is parked while cutting; especially in this colder weather. And when I start it up again, I am usually heading home, where I can plug it in. The 12V charging option would work well when driving between cutting jobs.

And welcome to A.S.!

Philbert
 
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