zogger
Tree Freak
Yes
Yes, knew that about the bar length, the speed increase comes from more pins on the drive sprocket. Just wanted to also try and keep the torque up a little, in the cut, from reduced chain friction going along the shorter bar. I don't know how much it would effect it, just wanted to know. So far, I like the PS system fine, as I did way back in the day when all I had was a craftsman plug in that had it. It always worked fine for me then.
Although..in advance..I am tempted to think the oregon engineer guys already have done this and put what works the best on the saw as for sprocket and bar and chain, etc. What works best and what balances the best and to give joe homeowner something that can cut up the largest branches that might typically fall in the yard.
It's the same with any saw, speed versus torque, finding a sweet spot that just works well with whatever engine or motor you have, in what wood ya got. But, you can't always guarantee the perfect wood for your system either. That's one reason why I tried it in a 30+ inch oak log, buried, I found out it will cut it. Slow, but it'll do it. You can cut from two sides, meaning it would handle, with some charges, even some pretty beefy downed branches or larger trees, as-is, stock.
Another sprocket with one more pin (or two, I don't care), if I can find one that fits, just can't be that expensive, good for a hoot more than anything..mods...
I know you know from running it, it needs to crack 10 thou RPMs somehow, that equivalent chain speed, to take it to the next serious level. One or two pins won't do it, but it'll get it quite a bit closer. After that is amateur EE time....
I don't know what to tell you about the sprocket. Maybe see if there is an Oregon part number on it that will tell you if it is compatible with another saw brand/model. As for the chain, I think that you would be better off finding a pre-made loop the right length - an Oregon rep told me that the PowerSharp chain does not seat well in most chain breakers, resulting in damaged links. I am sure you could still do it, but would take more effort than with conventional chain.
Might be an easier experiment to do using just 91PX/VG/VX chain if you need custom lengths.
Chain speed would remain the same (ft/second) regardless of the bar length.
Philbert
Yes, knew that about the bar length, the speed increase comes from more pins on the drive sprocket. Just wanted to also try and keep the torque up a little, in the cut, from reduced chain friction going along the shorter bar. I don't know how much it would effect it, just wanted to know. So far, I like the PS system fine, as I did way back in the day when all I had was a craftsman plug in that had it. It always worked fine for me then.
Although..in advance..I am tempted to think the oregon engineer guys already have done this and put what works the best on the saw as for sprocket and bar and chain, etc. What works best and what balances the best and to give joe homeowner something that can cut up the largest branches that might typically fall in the yard.
It's the same with any saw, speed versus torque, finding a sweet spot that just works well with whatever engine or motor you have, in what wood ya got. But, you can't always guarantee the perfect wood for your system either. That's one reason why I tried it in a 30+ inch oak log, buried, I found out it will cut it. Slow, but it'll do it. You can cut from two sides, meaning it would handle, with some charges, even some pretty beefy downed branches or larger trees, as-is, stock.
Another sprocket with one more pin (or two, I don't care), if I can find one that fits, just can't be that expensive, good for a hoot more than anything..mods...
I know you know from running it, it needs to crack 10 thou RPMs somehow, that equivalent chain speed, to take it to the next serious level. One or two pins won't do it, but it'll get it quite a bit closer. After that is amateur EE time....