Review Oregon PowerNow Cordless Chainsaw

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Thanks Luke. Look forward to the DC charger.

I actually have not tried an inverter yet because I do not want to drain my car battery when it is parked while cutting; especially in this colder weather. And when I start it up again, I am usually heading home, where I can plug it in. The 12V charging option would work well when driving between cutting jobs.

And welcome to A.S.!

Philbert


That draw on the charger is real small Phil. Even with inverter losses (they are almost all now 90% or better efficient), it isn't enough to worry about if your vehicle battery is in any kind of decent shape.

Back in ye olden corn-mune days, all we had for electricity was our vehicle batteries. Yank 'em, bring em in, run junk yard backup lights for lights, and junkyard radios and 8 track players. No probs for hours, stick battery back in in the morning.

Try it in your driveway first to check, you got a regular car batt charger at home, right? Plug in a discharged endurance cell, charge it, then try to start your vehicle. I bet you won't notice any difference at all (Try a completely cold engine for best results).

Bet a nickle you won't notice much. I know I have spaced before and left headlights on for hours at work and still managed to get my van started (like 8am to lunch time, go out to ride, whoops! It cranked...). Headlights will draw a lot more than that charger will.



Just check the specs on your inverter, Luke up there said they like pure sine wave.
 
Try it in your driveway first to check, . . .

Interesting idea Zog. Maybe I can borrow some type of battery test tool to see how much power remains in the battery, before and after.

Luke up there said they like pure sine wave.

Luke said they recommend a pure sine wave inverter; I'd like one as well!

They are a bit pricier than your run-of-the-mill-NAPA/Menard's/Northern Tool/Sam's Club/etc. inverters. I am not even sure if my household current is that clean.

Anybody know if the output from one the more modest inverters is any cleaner when the car engine is running or not? I know that the ham radio guys like to 'filter' their 12V power through the car's battery to dampen down spikes from the alternator, noise from the spark plugs, etc. It would seem that power from a parked car with the engine off would be more stable.

It wiill be interesting to see what their 12V charger looks like.

Philbert
 
Interesting idea Zog. Maybe I can borrow some type of battery test tool to see how much power remains in the battery, before and after.



Luke said they recommend a pure sine wave inverter; I'd like one as well!

They are a bit pricier than your run-of-the-mill-NAPA/Menard's/Northern Tool/Sam's Club/etc. inverters. I am not even sure if my household current is that clean.

Anybody know if the output from one the more modest inverters is any cleaner when the car engine is running or not? I know that the ham radio guys like to 'filter' their 12V power through the car's battery to dampen down spikes from the alternator, noise from the spark plugs, etc. It would seem that power from a parked car with the engine off would be more stable.

It wiill be interesting to see what their 12V charger looks like.

Philbert

Depends on your cars electronics. older vehicle=noisier. But..a variable. Too many vehicles out there and I am not an expert in that sort of stuff, just a rule of thumb deal. Modern electronics is just loads better for the most part, most situations. (short of solar x class flare or nuke EMP event, then the Amish are the high tech world leaders..)

As you are into emergency work, you might look into adapting a second battery into your vehicle *anyway*, and running what is called an "isolator". This allows the alternator to charge both batteries, but will only draw from the dedicated starter battery on cranking, and conversely, only run what you want with the other battery, not effecting your important starter battery. It isolates them..

You can wire your cig outlet receptacle to the other battery (called the "house" battery in RV speak). And in a pinch, you can just cheap jumper cable them together in a parallel circuit, your ride WILL start then. I mean you can do it with switche$, but jumper cables you already got work as well.

And solar panels are at an historical low now, down below a buck a watt at one source I was looking at today. (PM for the link if ya want it) You'd need around a 100 watter or so, 80 is cool, that outputs enough amps, plus a charge controller, to do that saw battery "in the field".

My old single panel rig was all mounted on a modded handtruck, panel, battery, charge controller. I added a screw into the ground dog lead connector to use as both a wind anchor and a ground. (first windy day I sorta noticed an anchor was a good idea...) ;)

edit: almost forgot! Your car battery test. Just use your cheap multimeter and test for voltage before and after, that's plenty good enough.
 
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This YouTube video says that they are coming out with a string trimmer and hedge trimmer in 2012 that will use the same batteries. That is consistent with the STIHL line of cordless chainsaws.

Philbert

Thanks for the headsup on that! I hope they also come out with an attachment to turn the saw into a pole saw.
 
Stihl will be releasing their own cordless saw sometime soon. It's good to see cordless saws progressing, I bought one by Ryobi a few years ago but it was total junk. These new saws look much better and we should see some really nice ones in a few years. Thanks for the writeup and keep us posted on the long term performance.

Yep, that little Ryobi (I have one too) is not what I would call a chainsaw. Not even for work up high--my 14" Sugoi handsaw works faster. On the other hand, its a great tool in my carpentry inventory--I've gotten alot of use out of it keeping it sharpened for soft framing lumber and for making those trims and adjustments that can't be handled by the other saws. But only after ditching the safety chain!

Im glad to see the cordless saws progressing. I'd really like someone to come out with a top-handle version of a 36V or higher cordless--the saw should really shine in that applicatoin.

I'd like to see a comparison of the PowerNow with a regular (narrow kerf) chain against some other small saws (200T, 435, etc.)
 
Yep, that little Ryobi (I have one too) is not what I would call a chainsaw. Not even for work up high--my 14" Sugoi handsaw works faster. On the other hand, its a great tool in my carpentry inventory--I've gotten alot of use out of it keeping it sharpened for soft framing lumber and for making those trims and adjustments that can't be handled by the other saws. But only after ditching the safety chain!

Im glad to see the cordless saws progressing. I'd really like someone to come out with a top-handle version of a 36V or higher cordless--the saw should really shine in that applicatoin.

I'd like to see a comparison of the PowerNow with a regular (narrow kerf) chain against some other small saws (200T, 435, etc.)

Oh, it isn't near as fast. I mean the 200T is a factory high end hot rod.

It is roughly half speed compared to modern small gas saws. It cuts, just don't expect it to be a gas saw, it isn't. Getting there, but not yet. MUCH better than the other batt saws out there, with the possible exception of the stihl and the bosch they sell in europe. Now it will cut what my little husky will cut, but again, not as fast. The chain design though is interesting and it will cut right with regular low pro IMO.

What I like about it is it is quiet, easy start, on / off, self sharpening, real good on bar oil use, cheap to run. Plus, in an extended emergency, I gots my own fuel station with my PV panels.

I've taken a little over 2 cords so far out of the branches in the front yard this past week, the oregon saw did a scosh more than 1/2 cord of that. It's real good for milking the branches out in the tangled mess. Make some cuts, drag stuff out of the way with the saw OFF. Go back, make some more cuts. Lather rinse repeat. If I was doing the small stuff with a gas saw it would be idling most of the time, just wasting fuel and being noisy for no reason. Or turn it off, re yankstart and stop a hundred times. No thanks on that, prefer the batt saw for the trimming work now, just fantastic for that.

One handed as a climbing saw...naw. Little heavy and rear handled awkward for that. Ya, I agree on a tophandle version though, that would be slick, that could work, especially if they bumped up the chain speed, either by gearing or a different motor, even at the disadvantage of reduced battery run time. They'd have to put the battery on the bottom and not the top of the saw to do that.

I don't have a sugoi or silky? those pro saws, are they that much better over a corona? I need/want some more biodrive saws, I am shy in that department right now. I have a corona pole saw, works pretty good actually for the money. I am ***-uming it is the same blade just with a handle. Tell ya the troofiness, I'd just as soon use that over the cheap poulan gasser pole saw I have. The only thing I don't like about it is it is hard/near impossible to make an undercut, just awkward. It's possible, but I don't have the technique for it very good, or something. Maybe if they had a quick attach system (freeking wingnuts would work) and a lot of different shaped and angled blades it might be better.
 
I'd really like someone to come out with a top-handle version of a 36V or higher cordless--the saw should really shine in that applicatoin.
I'd like to see a comparison of the PowerNow with a regular (narrow kerf) chain against some other small saws (200T, 435, etc.)

I posted some photos of a Husqvarna T536 LiXP top-handled, 36V saw I found on their Facebook site, that apparently is a prototype. http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/183354.htm

Bosch has a 36V AKE30Li that looks to be somewhere between a rear handle and a top handle saw in terms of handle placement: AKE 30 LI - Cordless chainsaw - Bosch Garden Tools

Makita has a 12V top handle saw: Makita USA - Tool Details - UC120DWD

As Zogger mentioned, the battery saws do not compete with the gas saws on speed or power, but can on convenience, noise, ease of starting, etc. I did a brief comparison of the PowerSharp chain with more conventional Oregon 3/8"LP chains (91PX, 91VG), and posted some comments in post #58 of this thread. I liked the PowerSharp better on this saw.

The STIHL 36V and the Makita 12V use smaller pitch chain (1/4"). The Bosch information only indicated .043 gauge chain, so I assume that it is also 1/4" ptich. I don't know what size chain the Husqvarna saws use.

Philbert
 
What I like about it is it is quiet, easy start, on / off, self sharpening, real good on bar oil use, cheap to run. Plus, in an extended emergency, I gots my own fuel station with my PV panels.

No question about it. easy start/on/off are the biggest selling points for a potential buyer like me--positive attributes that I are magnified when going up a tree. Being quiet is an added bonus (I suppose not having to wear ear muffs can't be a bad thing.) The extended emergency (no access to liquid fuel) aspect I can see being good too.

On the other hand, while the self-sharpening is definitely an innovative option--it not really integral to the cordless electric core and therefore not really a discriminator. In fact, if they made a top-handled one without the power-sharp feature, I'd buy one today, with one regular battery & one big battery.

Truth is, I'd like to see a collaboration between a chainsaw maker and a maker of top-of-the line cordless tools (e.g. DeWalt or Makita) to come up with a few purpose-built saws for the areas where cordless electric really shines.

Now...I think I'm heading over to FB to take a look at that Husky prototype!
 
I'd like to see a collaboration between a chainsaw maker and a maker of top-of-the line cordless tools (e.g. DeWalt or Makita) to come up with a few purpose-built saws for the areas where cordless electric really shines.

Er, . . . you do know that Makita did buy a chainsaw company (Dolmar) right?

I have a couple of corded Makita electric chainsaws that I really like. I expect them to come out with an upgraded version of their 12V chainsaw down the road.

Philbert
 
Er, . . . you do know that Makita did buy a chainsaw company (Dolmar) right?

I have a couple of corded Makita electric chainsaws that I really like. I expect them to come out with an upgraded version of their 12V chainsaw down the road.

Philbert

Yep. I have their 15-amp electric chainsaw as well--and have my eye on my local Home Despot's rental 6401!

They are who I had in mind. While it's nice to see someone like Stihl or Husky come out with a cordless saw, their core technical strengths lay in 2-stroke engines & engine R&D. That's why I didn't hesitate with Makita's UC4030 or 16" beam saw, since their strength really seems to be with AC electric motor-driven equipment--especially 15-AMP motors. IMHO, the future of cordless electric chainsaws lie with companies who either already have a large stake in DC motor & battery tech (DeWalt, Makita, Bosch, for example) or else, already having a high profile in the chainsaw market (Stihl, Husky, Dolmar, etc.), are willing to invest in the technology through outright purchase of IP or else by partnering with others. It's a real good opportunity for echo, solo, or jonsered to gain ground.

But Makita/Dolmar is probably best positioned...if only they would show something for it other than their corded electric chainsaws! I'm thinking of a range starting with 36V at the small end and going up to a 72V high torque (but lower chain-speed) rear-handle to handle 20-24" bars. Ok, back to reality now.
 
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Almost Forgot! Speed Changes

My 7-amp hammer drill & 18V cordless dewalt both have a speed switch allowing the choice of either lower torque & higher speed or else the other way around. Having such a thing on a chainsaw would sure beat having to worry shorter vs. longer bars & skip-tooth-vs. full cutter choices when using a saw for all-purpose firewood gathering. For some reason, shifting gears does not seem that practical for 2-stroke tools, although it is for electric tools, both corded & cordless.
 
1/4 inch pitch

Zogger,

You might be interested to see the OREGON saw also running with 1/4 inch pitch chain and a carving bar in their new YouTube video:



They said that this sprocket should be available later this year.

Of course, they don't mention that you still will be spraying bar and chain oil around, as well as piles of wood chips, if you carve in your living room!

Philbert
 
Zogger,

You might be interested to see the OREGON saw also running with 1/4 inch pitch chain and a carving bar in their new YouTube video:



They said that this sprocket should be available later this year.

Of course, they don't mention that you still will be spraying bar and chain oil around, as well as piles of wood chips, if you carve in your living room!

Philbert

I've been wondering about bar and chain oil. I wonder..longshot..if anyone has investigated using ceramics or both the chain and bar being graphite (or moly or...) treated, to eliminate even having to use bar oil. The spray-on stuff I just bought to treat my fiskars (haven't done it yet though)..I was looking at it, then did some more reading on dry lubes. Supposedly has enough oomph for lube (dry graphite is common to lube firearms, they function well and don't attract dirt, I know that much), as long as it it stuck on well to a wicked spotless clean surface. Oil WILL start to wear it off, but if it stayed dry..I wonder. That would be cool to be able to eliminate one of the expendables, plus the mess. Of course I am aware the loss of oil flung off and in the chips helps to eliminate heat, just wondering if the cancellation of so much friction with the graphite or moly would make that point moot.

That guy has a good eye. I didn't see where they changed pitch though, was that on their blog or something?
 
I didn't see where they changed pitch though, was that on their blog or something?

If you look close, he switches between the standard PowerSharp bar and chain (darker colored bar with rounded nose) and a carving bar and chain (shiny bar with small diameter nose) for different parts of the carving. You see him using the PowerSharp feature (sparks flying), but the video does not point out that this only works with that chain - I hope that people don't get confused.

"World reknowned chainsaw sculptor Bob King visits OREGON® headquarters in Portland, OR and puts on a little show. Watch Bob sculpt in high speed video. He uses a PowereNow™ CS250 equipped with PowerSharp and another CS250 equipped with an OREGON 12" dime tip sculpting bar and OREGON 1/4" pitch sculpting chainsaw chain. Thanks Bob!"

Philbert
 
If you look close, he switches between the standard PowerSharp bar and chain (darker colored bar with rounded nose) and a carving bar and chain (shiny bar with small diameter nose) for different parts of the carving. You see him using the PowerSharp feature (sparks flying), but the video does not point out that this only works with that chain - I hope that people don't get confused.



Philbert

Thanks for the info!

I only tried carving once, like years and years ago. I made an Easter island looking face and head into a big stump.
 
Zogger: I just found and read through this entire thread. It's not a thread as much as it's a semester in evaluating this saw. The Oregon reps were in with this saw this week, and you have answered more questions than I would have thought to ask. THANK YOU! And extra thanks also to Philbert! Adding some marketing thought to your observations I'm drawing a few conclusions. Tell me what you think.

First question with something new is "Who's going to buy it?" One type person who should really own this saw is the occasional user type. The guy who only uses his saw once in a while, and can never get it started; usually due to old gas. But I really think for most of them, the price is going to get in the way. You correctly point out that the amount they spend bringing the cheap gas saws back to the shop to get them running again can quickly add up to the price of this cordless. But most of these folks will balk at the price and pay to have the cheap gas saw fixed or by another one while promising themselves that "This time I'm going to take care of it." Of course, that promise is rarely kept. LOL.

This is also a great option for older guys and many women who are simply incapable of starting a gas saw. The price for this customer may not be too much of an issue, if it eliminates the exasperation of trying to start a gas saw. Some these people actually need a saw for more than simply occasional use, so your experiments on how much real work/firewood someone can do are very good.

I like how you altered your approach in post #49 by trimming off the useless branches with the hatchet so the saw is only used for "take home" cuts. I have a few women customers who cut firewood, and for the most part they stay within the size range that this saw seems to be happy with. Regardless of what they cut it with, they need to be able to handle the wood. Both you and Philbert seem to feel that going beyond 4" wood begins to affect battery life significantly. I would expect that much cutting for people trying to produce some firewood would be in 6" wood. How dramatic do you feel the drop off is for that size wood?

The pics of how much wood can be cut on a single battery are really not too impressive in my mind. This suggests to me that a second battery would be necessary to make this a reasonably practical tool. And that maybe puts the price into the "I don't know if this makes sense" bracket. What is the cost of a second battery? If the saw and extra battery is going to cost as much as a 562XP, it will be a tough sell.

But what you are doing is really exploring the upper productivity limits of this unit. Using some common sense and thinking ahead, you can get a fair amount of work done. I'm having another thought here that the smaller sized wood in which this saw seems happy, is similar to when people cut firewood with a bucksaw and an ax. They would tend toward the smaller stuff because it was more easily workable with hand tools. So, it's maybe the same approach with a cordless saw, minus a ton of sweat and effort.

I'm not going to sell this Oregon unit. Gotta take 5 and short terms for one thing. But mostly because Husky is coming out with a few new cordless saws this fall. (If they can accomplish the rare feat of meeting one of their own forecasts.) They will have both top and rear handle models. A couple of which are XP's and are outfitted with hooks and such for climbers. My guess is that they will also be fairly expensive, especially the XP models. (I have no other info on these things spec wise.)

But again thanks for doing such an exhaustive study on this saw. It is really very informative and helpful.
 
Spike, you are right that these cordless saws are not for everybody. But neither is a 562XP, an MS660, etc., even with $$$ aside.

These battery operated saws, in general, will probably not appeal to a price-sensitive consumer, or one who uses a saw extensively, or on a daily basis. I would not try to steer these types of customers toward this product, who might think of them as a curiosity, at best.

Thinking this through, from a marketing perspective, these saws as a category should appeal to:

- An affluent user who is less price-sensitive. For example, a suburban homeowner with a large lot who likes to do his/her own, occasional yard work and trimming. If they are willing to pay several thousands of dollars to drive a Lexus over a Camry, they will not wince at paying $200 more for a saw they like from a dealer over the one on sale at Sears. They are feature, service, and convenience driven.

- People who do not like loud noises, smoke, repetitively pulling recoil ropes, messing with flooded engines, etc. You mentioned a few possibilities: older or female users, but realistically, not everyone in 'into' the whole 2-cycle thing. They want to focus on the cutting or pruning aspect, not on the saw itself (hard to envision from an A.S. perspective!). These can be viewed as much 'cleaner', simpler saws to operate. Some people will view them as 'safer' because they are easier to control, even though they can still be dangerous if carelessly handled.

- People interested in 'a system': several manufacturers are offering these with inter-changeable batteries for string trimmers, hedge trimmers, etc.

- Places where noise is an issue (cemeteries, schools, business campuses, etc.)

- Occasional users who want to grab the saw, cut, and put it away for an extended period, and not have to worry if it will start each time.

- People who like the advantages of electric chainsaws (e.g. trigger start and stop), but do not want the additional work of laying out a long extension cord and winding it back up, just to make a few, quick cuts, or who are more than 100' from an outlet.

- Lawn service or maintenance personnel who need to occasionally cut, trim, or remove branches, but who are not in the tree business, and want to keep a truck saw.

- Building maintenance personnel who are limited in their ability to store gasoline in their shop (apartment managers, for example).

- Anyone who has to make cuts inside a barn (pole building, etc.) where noise, smoke, sparks, etc. could be a problem. Timber framers, carvers, guys who convert their Super Splitters to electric power!

As far as comparing the cordless models, you would need to do it side-by-side to be fair I only got to try the STIHL 36V briefly at a demonstration. It runs 1/4" pitch chain, as I believe that the Bosch 36V and the Husqvarnas also do < http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/183354.htm > The Oregon runs 3/8 LP chain. That still does not tell you anything about torque, balance, run time, features, user preference, etc. If you are a Husky dealer, it makes sense for you to market those.

I have used the Oregon many times now, and feel very comfortable with it as a 'grab-and-go' saw for cutting tasks up to 6" diameter wood, even though I also own several other gas and electric saws. Oregon likes to promote the PowerSharp feature as well, which also helps to make it a low maintenance tool, especially for a homeowner or occasional user. I was skeptical of the PowerSharp chain at first, but also use it now on a corded electric saw around the yard, in the city.

I hope that this helps provide some insight on marketing these newer battery powered saws, whatever brand. Also keep in mind the slow momentum that battery operated drills had to become accepted, starting out with the 7.2 Volt models!

Philbert
 
Zogger: I just found and read through this entire thread. It's not a thread as much as it's a semester in evaluating this saw. The Oregon reps were in with this saw this week, and you have answered more questions than I would have thought to ask. THANK YOU! And extra thanks also to Philbert! Adding some marketing thought to your observations I'm drawing a few conclusions. Tell me what you think.

First question with something new is "Who's going to buy it?" One type person who should really own this saw is the occasional user type. The guy who only uses his saw once in a while, and can never get it started; usually due to old gas. But I really think for most of them, the price is going to get in the way. You correctly point out that the amount they spend bringing the cheap gas saws back to the shop to get them running again can quickly add up to the price of this cordless. But most of these folks will balk at the price and pay to have the cheap gas saw fixed or by another one while promising themselves that "This time I'm going to take care of it." Of course, that promise is rarely kept. LOL.

This is also a great option for older guys and many women who are simply incapable of starting a gas saw. The price for this customer may not be too much of an issue, if it eliminates the exasperation of trying to start a gas saw. Some these people actually need a saw for more than simply occasional use, so your experiments on how much real work/firewood someone can do are very good.

I like how you altered your approach in post #49 by trimming off the useless branches with the hatchet so the saw is only used for "take home" cuts. I have a few women customers who cut firewood, and for the most part they stay within the size range that this saw seems to be happy with. Regardless of what they cut it with, they need to be able to handle the wood. Both you and Philbert seem to feel that going beyond 4" wood begins to affect battery life significantly. I would expect that much cutting for people trying to produce some firewood would be in 6" wood. How dramatic do you feel the drop off is for that size wood?

The pics of how much wood can be cut on a single battery are really not too impressive in my mind. This suggests to me that a second battery would be necessary to make this a reasonably practical tool. And that maybe puts the price into the "I don't know if this makes sense" bracket. What is the cost of a second battery? If the saw and extra battery is going to cost as much as a 562XP, it will be a tough sell.

But what you are doing is really exploring the upper productivity limits of this unit. Using some common sense and thinking ahead, you can get a fair amount of work done. I'm having another thought here that the smaller sized wood in which this saw seems happy, is similar to when people cut firewood with a bucksaw and an ax. They would tend toward the smaller stuff because it was more easily workable with hand tools. So, it's maybe the same approach with a cordless saw, minus a ton of sweat and effort.

I'm not going to sell this Oregon unit. Gotta take 5 and short terms for one thing. But mostly because Husky is coming out with a few new cordless saws this fall. (If they can accomplish the rare feat of meeting one of their own forecasts.) They will have both top and rear handle models. A couple of which are XP's and are outfitted with hooks and such for climbers. My guess is that they will also be fairly expensive, especially the XP models. (I have no other info on these things spec wise.)

But again thanks for doing such an exhaustive study on this saw. It is really very informative and helpful.

You are welcome, it has been fun and informative for me as well.
Target market..NO HASSLES and it JUST WORKS.. It's the #1 selling point. On/off, just cuts. No trying to learn to hand sharpen or have to stop in mid job and trudge to the shop for a grind. Expensive to buy, but cheap to operate, pennies in electric per "tank". I've just done a lot of cords of oak in my front yard and it is running me just a little under a gallon of mix per cord when using the gassers. That's close to six bucks. I can cut 1/4 cord per battery if I hit the sweet spot. Well under a buck a cord in juice bill. Bar oil is a little over three batteries per small tank full.

This is the only saw I have that my GF can start and operate. And no worries on letting it sit on the shelf for six months to a year, it'll still start and run.

Quiet, you can run it in packed suburbia at 6 am sunday morning and not bother anyone. No arcane tuning skills needed, no fuel line and filter replacement, no air cleaner replacement, no trying to find no-ethanol stations, no yanking with no start..all that jazz. Like they say, no hassles.

I also like it when trimming out a tree because I can set it down and it is OFF, no sitting their idling or stopping it then restarting it. I cut, move brush, go to cut again.

At six inches you can still get a lot of cuts. I have always just milked out trees, so this is normal for me to start at 1-2 inches on a tree and work my way back to the stump/butt end. It fits in the saw and cutting rotation then. I go now, hatchet, battery saw, mid size saw a 30,40 or 50 cc (whatever I just got running to try out, this is a variable with my cutting), then my larger saw, a 74cc depending on the work if I need that one.

For pro firewood guys who slap ignore anything smaller than six inches and just leave a slash pile and only take the huge log blocks, nope, not real practical. For anyone else, it is fine, IMO, as the small saw in the lineup and as the backyard saw for joe burbs, or like a camping saw for the weekend, that sort of thing.

Yes, it is expensive...just price a high end cordless drill, then it is a fair price, and their batteries are the cheapest of the other two similar saws, the battery stihl and bosch. Until Husky's saws hit, this is it, three practical cordless chainsaws (and the only one really readily available in the US), although there are a dozen much smaller and cheaper makes and models out there. And this is the only one with built in sharpening, which actually *works* quite well.

You can get a good/pretty decent plug in drill for $40, a cordless is $300-400 for a good one, a top of the line unit. You are paying for convenience, ease of use, reliability, etc. So the saw price isn't really out of line compared to other high end cordless battery tools. And supposedly, they have more yard tools coming out that you will be able to use the same battery and charger for, so the battery itself becomes a lot more practical.

And for me, and I realise this doesn't apply to most people because of their mindset, I like it because if TSHTF and something happens to fuel availability and prices, I have a small, modest but functional solar array which I can use partly as my gaspump for this saw. For a long, long time. Just cutting from one recharged battery a day, I KNOW I can more than cover my yearly firewood fuel needs. I've done the real world tests and measured six ways to Sunday, it could be done, plus extra. And one battery would last me almost three years/seasons of cutting every day.

I currently own 32 saws, around a dozen runners and another dozen waiting for me to finish them, plus parts saws, and if you made me, this is the last saw I would part with. I feel exceedingly lucky and blessed with this thing, first run, first generation of the 21st century practical chain saw. it's almost like being give the first laptop way back when, something like that.

Don't get me wrong, I love my gassers and antiques, but this is just rad, especially since I learned to use it properly.

My two must have firewood tools, this saw and my fiskars splitting axe, because they are top of the line best in breed that I can get my hands on, and if all else fails, just them two tools and I am covered, and my GF and I can stay warm in the winter and cook food year round.

Looking forward to the husky lineup! Competition is good! I'd like to see a pole saw attachment, using the same powerhead, and also just a much more powerful battery saw. Something that can pull at least an 18" chain with some authority.
 
Came across an Oregon booth unexpectedly at a local outdoors / sportsman show. They had the 40 volt saw, and the PowerSharp chains, and were also showing a string trimmer and hedge trimmer that use the same battery. These were also in their printed materials. They did not say when they would be available, but I assume by this Spring?

Philbert
 
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