Rigging setup

[sprung22]

OK here's what I have so far 200' 3/4 stable braid,large port a wrap and a 3/4 block.What I'm hoping to find out is for the money what you guy's like to use to attach these?I think it would be great to have a loopie for the block and a whoopie for the port a wrap but it's a lot more cost effective to use 2 dead eye slings for both.And I know it would be cheapest to just use rope that I currently have,but I like the idea of a knotless setup for ease of setup and speed.So let me know?

Thank's Steve

 

[rob b]

I took two pieces of 3/4 three strand and braided eyes in the end, works good, good how to on the knot webside

 

[sprung22]

I took two pieces of 3/4 three strand and braided eyes in the end, works good, good how to on the knot webside

What length do you use for the block and the port a wrap?

 

[ddhlakebound]

I use an amsteel whoopie for the porty and an amsteel loopie for the block.

They're lighter, stronger, and take up less space than tenex or stable braid.

I bought the whoopie and made the loopie, when I need to replace the whoopie, I'll make that one too, amsteel is easy to splice.

 

[rob b]

I usually use this for bigger wood so about 15 feet this gives u enough to tie different hitches. I have a 20 foot one for the portawrap on big trees. The best site i found making these loops is www.animatedknots.com

 

[sprung22]

Thank's rob ill try that

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

You can use old rope for the porty, or buy a short piece of 3/4 and tie it on. what is the largest diameter you will be working on? Then you need around 4 times that to be able to tie off.

Get a 3/4 loopie for the block, you will be thankful for the added cast when you are working down spars.

 

[teamtree]

Why such a big rope? I know this is not important to your question but you will wear yourself out working with a big rope like that....

I use a 1/2" stable braid with an eye splice on one end....then I use a rigging carabiner or 36" loops with a biner on it.....works great and not as much weight to pull back up.

You can probably buy all the slings you will need for about $200 and then be ready for almost any situation.

 

[John464]

Why such a big rope? I know this is not important to your question but you will wear yourself out working with a big rope like that....

I use a 1/2" stable braid with an eye splice on one end....then I use a rigging carabiner or 36" loops with a biner on it.....works great and not as much weight to pull back up.

You can probably buy all the slings you will need for about $200 and then be ready for almost any situation.

I use the 36" loops as well with biners and snap hooks on them, actually the loops are of different sizes I carry 4 with me at all times. I grab the one with the snap hook on it first because its quicker to snap the rope in. Nylon slings are much easier to handle when taking limbs and small wood. I'll use two stacked at a time to strengthen it up when taking a load bordering on capacity of just one sling/biner. When I go above that weight load cap I send up for the tenex whoopie with ISC block. I am curious to hear about your rigging carbiner and stable combo. Sounds like an intermediate load bearing setup. Ive never heard of a rigging carabiner, although I do use some petzl's in the nylon loop and biner method described above.

 

[rob b]

i agree i use the loops with all my old climbing snaps on small limbs and small wood, the 3/4 i use with big tops, wood and on the portawrap

 

[sprung22]

Why such a big rope? I know this is not important to your question but you will wear yourself out working with a big rope like that....

I use a 1/2" stable braid with an eye splice on one end....then I use a rigging carabiner or 36" loops with a biner on it.....works great and not as much weight to pull back up.

You can probably buy all the slings you will need for about $200 and then be ready for almost any situation.

I just figured with that size rope I could cover all bases,but your right that would be a bear to haul that up all day long.

When you say all slings.What type do you use day in and day out.Like what size whoopies,loopies,dead eye.I kinow the 3/4 block and large port a wrap will work for all size ropes but what about the slings.

 

[teamtree]

This is what I use for rigging most jobs with wood up about 800#.

I use the 1/2" with the carabiner (1124# wll) purchased from Sherrill (page 56) in many situations. I use the loop runners with slideline carabiners when I will attach multiple limbs or want to attach the next limb while the previous is being lowered.

I use a climbing rope with an eye splice as well when rigging small stuff....just like the small ropes for ease of handling.

I usually put a couple of pulleys and blocks in a tree to get the wood to swing where I want but other times you just go with what you have.

 

[teamtree]

I have a few more slings than what I have shown....I have a loopie and a whoopie not sure which is what but I have them....and I have about 4 of the green slings as well and then a few eye slings. I need to start replacing them with new stuff.

 

[sprung22]

Thanks that helps a lot

 

[CjPetey]

you should started out with 5/8 rope smaller the 3/4 and bigger the 1/2. Are you doing crane work that's why you got 3/4?

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I do some pretty big trees and use 1/2 inch for almost everything. I did a cottonwood in December that was a hair too big for my rope, and the primary had a 200 hank of 5/8, for the same reason you use. he is a start-up and is trying to be cost conscious. It is a false economy when the afore mentioned effort is figured in.

After five hours hauling that dang thing around and blocking big wood out my arms were rather noodly.

 

[sprung22]

you should started out with 5/8 rope smaller the 3/4 and bigger the 1/2. Are you doing crane work that's why you got 3/4?

The reason I started out with 3/4 like I said was to try and cover all bases.And yes I will definitely be buying some 1/2 for the majority of the work now.Along with that,im thinking the best setup will be 2 tenex dead eye slings a 3/4 x 25' for the port a wrap and 5/8 x 12 for the block.I have about 10 rigging carabiners and probably 50' of that light duty nylon webbing I bought off ebay that I will have sewn and turned into loops.At least that's what ill start with and see how it works

 

[treemandan]

I have to get some more of that tree cable rope I had. I made an easy eye splice with it and it works great, well it worked great, we overloaded it somehow but the the splice was fine. This rope is simular to Tenex.

 

[outonalimbts]

3/4 inch is standard equipment, but it depends how you lower the loads!

We have 3 3/4 inch green double braid ropes cut to 210' each, we also have 2 3/4" Arborplex bull lines also 210' lengths- We reserve these line when we are either very close to a home, or we have large material to lower.

We use a 9/16" double esterlon for all of our small diameter lowering. The key is always going to be the weight of the items lowered (load) and the technique utilized when lowering.

It is quite easy to overload a sling of any size if you shock load it or "snub it off", I have had brand new slings break if a groundie decides to hold the load without allowing to to run at all. A matter of fact I had to replace an entire set of steps going up to the deck we were protecting because of our groundie not allowing the load to run. cost more than the final payment on the project! Grrr.

If you are expecting to be "snubbing off" many of the loads then go with the biggest slings or loopies you can buy. But, if you are going to allow them to run, then you can get away with anything in the 9/16 to 5/8 range. I like the whoopie slings as they are very easy to tighten around most trees and spars.

On trees larger than 4' diameter, I utilize a logging chain, with a large clevis (45,000 lb), I have a clevis hook on each end, that I hook back into the chain, then I tie a rope around each hook and chain, to prevent them from coming loose. I also use a regular eye sling, in the 1" size for the largest chunks that are lowered.

Of course on the smallest material that we lower I also use a hank of ArborMaster 1/2" line, I like to lower many medium branches myself this way, I employ the Munter hitch and a friction saver to secure these loads while in the tree tops. See Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fs2IjE70Uc
that video shows me lowering the material.

This video shows my groundie lowering the top of the tree, again on a Munter hitch, allowing it to run, you can see how close to the homes this is in the end of the shot. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rs_C5M8mtRE

But, in both of these examples the rope was allowed to run, if the material had been held and it had shocked loaded this tree then the entire tree could have broken off of the base as it was almost totally rotten, and had a wonderful cavity at the root flare.

In short, the keys to remember are your WLL, and the technique you are going to be using on any of your lowering tasks.

Be Safe it is dangerous out there-

 

[sprung22]

I have to get some more of that tree cable rope I had. I made an easy eye splice with it and it works great, well it worked great, we overloaded it somehow but the the splice was fine. This rope is simular to Tenex.

Thank's for the pm Dan very helpful