Roachy/BigJohn 'Biner Setup

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Originally posted by BigJohn
This is how I like to set it up with the eye splice. For me I wouldn't want the extra jingle jangle. I am like Rich with the long monkey like arms if its out of reach use the feet.

GOSH, that Blaze sure is pretty, sigh.

You forgot to mention that you only detach the eye splice to make the split. I think that was a concern futher up in the thread,

Jack
 
I know I did jack. Not problem Rich I just got in from work and feeding the horses. If anyone is intrested this same topic has been talked about before with more pictures and explanations. Yeah blaze sure is nice Jack.
 
If you use the aluminum ring on the bridge of your Butterfly II with a william biner you don't need the extra biner. I can attach and detach entire system without untying friction hitch.

Mike
 
My setup, quite similar, however captive eye biner is threaded on the bridge of my bfly.

I like it b/c of the way it aligns my rope. It is also as easy as opening one biner to get out of the whole system.
 
Rich,
PLEASE lose that snap and get a spliced eye on the end of your climbing line.... One of the main advantages of that set up is pulling your line out to reset is but a quick unclip/reclip away... if you have to stop and think about getting that clip stuck, or worse yet, have to untie/re-tie, you're missing half the fun...
 
Originally posted by murphy4trees
Rich,
PLEASE lose that snap and get a spliced eye on the end of your climbing line.... One of the main advantages of that set up is pulling your line out to reset is but a quick unclip/reclip away... if you have to stop and think about getting that clip stuck, or worse yet, have to untie/re-tie, you're missing half the fun...

Thanks Murph, but I have a 600ft. spool to use up. That is not to say that splicing is out of the picture. Husky288XP ( Steve ) is getting the hang of splicing quite well. That is just another step to move on to.


I really don't see the speed difference. In your view there is nothing to weight the splice to advance the line. So by the time you hang a throwbag on the line it may be roughly the same time it takes me to tie and retie ( maybe once in any tree ) my snap.

Ahhhhhhhh............it is great to have options!!!:D
 
Set up with a spliced eye as per Big Jon's pic... Lose the knot and the snap.... Mike... I've heard you argue for the snap 'cause its easier to handle... How much easier though... In my thinking there is very little downside to giving up the snap and knot, for a lot to gain... Do you see any other downsid here?
 
Originally posted by TreeJunkie
My setup, quite similar, however captive eye biner is threaded on the bridge of my bfly.
Nice; that's the way it should be done for the system, if possible.

Please be more reasonable.

Glen
 
Originally posted by netree
..I do wonder what the differences are in strength-retention between various knots vs the eye splice. Perhaps NickfromWI would be willing to add his expertise in that area?

Both appropriate knots and splices are good enough, strong enough, and secure enough. Regarding strength retention or "efficency"? Splices blow all knots out of the water. A minimum splice should be 90-95% of breaking strength and when properly done, 100% is very reasonable. Knots can get up to about 80% (and some below half!). Some knots will untie themselves, rather than breaking, when pulled in pull tests.

So if strengh is the concern, splice is the answer. If security is the concern, a splice is the answer. If cleanliness and reduction of unwanted bulk is the concern, a splice is the answer.

Now if you want to undo it, tie a knot, eh.

In a related issue, when you use a spliced line, the last foot of the line beceomes stiffer. When you pull this eye over a branch, the stiffness tends to "flip" the eye over the branch, lessening the chance of it getting caught in a crotch.


love
nick
 
Originally posted by Mike Maas
Yet when you pull that stiff splice tail around a sharp bend, it's incredibly weak!

Are you using this as an argument against a splice, Mike. The same is true about knots or anywhere along the line of the rope.

Please expand on this.

love
nick
 
Eric, I don't bother flipping the working end of my climbing line. I have a couple lines that never milked an inch. I have others that I've milked inches or feet off of. Milking is a necessary nuiscance of the first few days we buy a new rope. Also, I fear that when descending, I might milk slack into the splice at the "other" end of the climbing line. Ropes last long enough as it is.

I like having a "free end" of a rope to use for things here and there while climbing in a tree. Sometimes might become a quick lowering line, extra temporary lanyard....things like that. That's just my style.

I don't promote having a splice on both ends, but I'll do it if someone asks. It is an accepted practice.

love
nick
 
Originally posted by netree
Also Nick, speaking of pics:

In the two pictures, would you agree or disagree that bringing the girth around the two parts of the eye would be stronger ultimately than around the splice itself?

You gotta show me a pic of what you mean. I think I am picturing the wrong thing.

love
nick
 
Okay, looks good. I agree with you on that.

Now if you run the inside splice a little more and choke it tighter, it's on the main body of the rope. That's even better. Or clipping both eyes to the 'biner. I like that, too.

love
nick
 
Originally posted by netree
The rope in the pics is an 8-foot piece of (I forget- help me out, Nick!...) with 2 eye splices I bring up as a multi-use line while climbing (custom made by Nick)

That's XTC. I think Yale made that custom color just for Fresco. Maybe others ordered it, too.

love
nick
 
been using 5/8 xtc spearmint last few months as a workline,i whipped the ends,its good on the groundies hands,and runs well
 
I love using my small 8 oz throw ball on the end of my Blaze. I keep the ball on a small keychain beiner and clip right to small ring on the bridge of my Bterfly. With the small ball and blaze I can throw it like a regular throwline. You can accurately throw 30 feet or so. I guess you have to see it in action.
 
Bj,

I here ya there. I got that idea from mark a little over a year ago, and have been carrying the throwball on my saddle ever since. however i'm using the 16oz ball. May lighten up though since i'm climbing on blaze all the time lately.
 

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