Roper 3.7 tear down and rebuild

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. Yes, inside starter/flywheel area. Once you get fresh duckbills working reliably, the oiler actually works quite well.
 
. Yes, inside starter/flywheel area. Once you get fresh duckbills working reliably, the oiler actually works quite well.
Robert and Steve.. Thank you so very much. I wouldn't have spent this much time on an old saw, but it runs so well.. I have no patience, I give up on a turd after 4 minutes.. I'll post what happens.. Again.. Many thanks.. K
 
Will take both to make a half one from the looks of them. Like that starter handle. If it has the compression like mine, he'll need something better that that, like a snow blower motor starter handle.

Steve
 
Will take both to make a half one from the looks of them. Like that starter handle. If it has the compression like mine, he'll need something better that that, like a snow blower motor starter handle.

Steve
I'm up and going on the ROPER, thanks to all the knowledgeable people out there.. AND only took this many beersIMG_20180617_181254.jpg IMG_20180617_181301.jpg
 
Yes it is, one way for off, the other for decomp, I think push down and pull back. Been awhile since I've had mine out. Those air filter covers weren't made out of good stuff. Starter handle busted mine when compression snatched mine out of my hand. Thought I lost a few fingers, it smarted.

Steve
 
Yes it is, one way for off, the other for decomp, I think push down and pull back. Been awhile since I've had mine out. Those air filter covers weren't made out of good stuff. Starter handle busted mine when compression snatched mine out of my hand. Thought I lost a few fingers, it smarted.

Steve
I was starting it without the help. I just figured it was like my Jonny 2094.. MAC 1-70 will, WILL, take a finger or two.. Those covers are plastic, as you know.. But almost looks like a Homey super XL might fit. In any case, I'll put a cover on my boneyard list. Might be a week or two so don't go running to the bank. Thanks K
 
Hope you find one. Sooooo busy, forgot to get back here. :crazy2:
You too?. I sold the newer 3.7.. Now working on the older one.. Those clutches are an SOB to get off.. Just saying.. Boneyard Thursday or Friday.. Just keep reminding me.. I'll write it down, but then forget where I put the note.
 
Ok, I don't know why but I love the challenge of getting old power equipment back to life.
I was given a Craftsman-Roper 3.7/18 that was destined for the dump.
I squirted some pre-mix in the carb and pulled it over.
She ran for a few seconds and died, good news!!
I ordered a carb kit (walbro) from Amazon Prime and got it in today.
She is back to life. Has lots of power, now a keeper!!
I read all 18 pages of this thread, very informative..
I downloaded Craftsman manuals and Walbro carb overhaul manual.
Glad I read the carb manual and the caution about using compressed air and damaging the rubber check valve.
I want to remove the auto-sharp and replace the chain with a more aggressive chain.
What is the most aggressive chain that is available that works on the stock banana bar?
This one ? Oregon 20LPX074G 20181126_192011.jpg
The picture shows the model and serial #
 
This classic thread needs to be made a sticky!!

Wanted to add a note that the 2 screw Tillotson HS-79A carb did NOT use a main nozzle, so you’ll NOT have a check valve!

I rebuilt & ran my standard pressure tests on one yesterday, and thought it was failing the check valve test. It was not!

Called VE Petersens to confirm. They said there’s only a handful of HS series carbs that had the main feed drilled directly into the venturi.
 

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