RPMS for stock 346xp

[arborman]

hi guys. i was wondering if you might help me out to figure out what rpm i can run my stock 346xp at and still be safe. Ive been told bye some that i shouldent go over 13500 but i figured i would check with you guys. because from what i can see on here you guys know more about saws then anyone in this area.
i know that they used to be advertized as being 14700 but is that acurate?
Also one more thing i got a stihl 041 AV from a guy to do some work on and he decided he didnt want to sink any money into it.. not that it needs anything big.. just a bar, chain and posibly an oiler. but im not farmiliar with that saw. can anyone tell me the CCs. and maybe the approximate HP?
And one last thing! This site is realy great.. expechially this forum . ever since i found out about it ive been checking on here everyday about 5 times . to see what you guys are up to. and what your working on . im thinking about buying a new climbing saw here prety soon. ive always been brand layal to huskys . ive worked a bit with the 020T though too and didnt mind it realy . definatly a different feel the the 335xpt though. . but i was wondering if you guys could point me in a direction between either the solo top handle of the echo 3400 ? Ive run the echo and liked it.. it starts good . runs good . not as fast as the rest but a nice little saw.. i dont know much about the reed valve in em either . Never seen a saw with one so i dont know if its good or bad.. if ken or any of the other guys in here who have ran the solo and the echo could help out with this one it would be greatly apprechiated. ! Thanks guys!

 

[tundraotto]

about the 346xp - tune it to what the factory does; 14600rpm, I believe thats the factory figure - it'll stay happy, and from what I can tell so will you

I am Stihl eating breakfast, and it tastes like chicken

 

[arborman]

just fixing a bad from before.. It was Denis who just got the solo 633.. i was thinking it was ken for some reason.. must be geting over tierd or something .. i told myself i would be in bed about 3 hours ago and it hasent hapened yet.. im still up studying the posts on here ! but anyways to any and all who can help with the goods bads and uglys about the solo 633 and the echo 3400 please do .. it would be greatly apprechiated! thanks guys.

 

[treeclimber165]

Echo 3400-

Good- Cheap, reliable (my current one is over 3 years old, daily use), exhaust mods are simple and help power a lot.

Bad- Low power in comparison to the high-dollar climbing saws.

Ugly- Rubber mounts are not designed for lots of abuse. IF you push and pull your saw, they will break. If the wire between the throttle trigger and carb keeps coming out, it's because you bent the top mount. If you force the saw through cuts, you will tear the left side top handle mount and/or rear mounts. I used to tear them all the time, haven't torn one in over 5 years now.

 

[seesaw]

The Solo 633 will run right w/the 3400. Six of one, half dozen of the other. Same price. Solo uses rubber, springs and nylon webbing for mount/anti-vibe. Very well balanced. 2yr. commercial warranty.
Seesaw

 

[sawracr]

Sold a lot of 346s, 13,500 is where they cut the best. Jon

 

[jokers]

Jon, you`re saying you send them out the door running 1200 rpm less than factory spec (14,700)? I find that interesting. Mine was delivered to me from Walkers running at 14K and that`s where I`ve left it. Runs like a banshee. Russ

 

[Dennis]

Russ...Jon is correct here...(as you are)...14700 is factory spec....but the saw cuts best at 13500...When Robert and John were here in March of this year, we did a test...the 2149 vs the 346....we tested them both at 14700 rpm and 13500rpm...13500 consistently cut faster....the thread was called Creative Advertising I think....at the end, if I remember correctly..we posted some times...if not I have the times somewhere in my book...but 13500 was faster...

 

[sawracr]

Russ, I worry about a saw turning in excess of 13,500, the rod bearings don't roll as nicely as they should, I have replaced to many cranks with big end rod bearing failure, all from big RPMs. You know this could leed to another debate about oil or manufacturing. If you could dino the 346, my belief is torque would fall off, somewhere around 13to13,500. Later Jon

 

[Lobo]

"Husky 346" Runs like a banshee. Russ

Dictionnary = "Banshee" spirit who wails to warn of
impending death

 

[jokers]

That`s good Lobo! LOL

Hi Jon, yeah, I know that alot of Huskies have had big end failures, and maybe I`m tempting fate by saying this, but I`ve never had one. I`ve been running 371s through the current 372s at around 13,700 to 13,900 because Soren Errickson said thats where they run best and it has worked for me. Maybe I`m just lucky or maybe because I am meticulous about fresh gas mixed properly, proper carb tuning, sharp chains, clean air filters, and keeping the saw clean so it can cool off. I am inclined to heed your advice based on your experience, but my 346 is actually running a bit rich at 14k. Seems to me that a guy with quite a bit of industry experience who used to post here, with a definite bias toward low rpm saws, said that bearing skate normally started at about 15,000rpm. Can you recomend anything else I should do if I remain hell bent on running at 14k? Synthetic oil or anything? Husky oil has been good enough so far but I have never had to tear down a bottom end. Somewhere around here I have the dyno info from Walkers for my saw, but I can`t see it right now and can`t remember all that it showed, but dialing in a certain no-load speed is only to get the correct fuel/oil ratio isn`t it? Obviously the saw doesn`t run at that speed in the cut, or am I missing something? Thanks, Russ

 

[rbtree]

jokers,

I was wondering the same thing, what everyone meant, no load rpm for tuning, or best working rpm.

anyhow, here's the specs from walker's website:



Husquvarna 346XP
Bitmap


Stock Walkerized Stock Walkerized Stock Walkerized

RPM RPM Torque Torque HP HP
13189.64 14545.00 0.251 0.388 0.630 1.075
13181.00 14545.00 0.260 0.400 0.653 1.108
13181.00 14515.00 0.257 0.402 0.646 1.111
12939.00 13333.00 0.420 0.890 1.035 2.259
12898.50 12606.00 0.427 1.240 1.048 2.976
12878.00 12585.33 0.450 1.233 1.103 2.955
12878.00 12575.00 0.440 1.230 1.079 2.945
12212.00 12539.83 0.690 1.237 1.604 2.953
12143.25 11848.00 0.680 1.490 1.572 3.361
12090.00 11848.00 0.670 1.503 1.542 3.391
12181.00 11848.00 0.700 1.510 1.624 3.406
10666.00 11818.00 1.220 1.523 2.478 3.426
10651.00 11818.00 1.199 1.500 2.432 3.375
10151.00 11818.00 1.310 1.510 2.532 3.398
10118.17 11060.00 1.308 1.760 2.519 3.706
10060.00 10000.00 1.310 1.930 2.509 3.675
10060.00 9969.00 1.320 1.930 2.528 3.663
8848.00 9969.00 1.510 1.950 2.544 3.701
8803.69 9927.75 1.504 1.949 2.521 3.684
8757.00 9272.00 1.530 2.050 2.551 3.619
7393.00 9242.00 1.780 2.040 2.506 3.590
+
6 7393.00 9242.00 1.800 2.050 2.534 3.607
6181.00 9242.00 1.770 2.060 2.083 3.625
6181.00 7575.00 1.770 2.280 2.083 3.288
6181.00 7550.00 1.770 2.268 2.083 3.261
6163.00 7545.00 1.766 2.240 2.072 3.218
5787.00 7515.00 1.740 2.273 1.917 3.253
5787.00 7121.00 1.750 2.240 1.928 3.037
5759.31 7072.00 1.761 2.242 1.931 3.019
999.00 7090.00 0.050 2.270 0.010 3.064
999.00 7051.43 0.040 2.236 0.008 3.002


Peak hp is still at around 9-10000 rpm, but the modded saw pwer band is much broader.

My Madsen's tuned 372 was running at over 15000, before I had them turn it down to about 13500. It lost some power so I bumped it back up some til the sound was right and power was better.

I recently ran a 038 Magnum ll, new square filed chisel, 24 inch bar through some wood in about 3 seconds. My 346XP-G was under 4, with a sharp but far from perfectly filed round chisel 16 inch set up. That saw Dennis did is just fantastic!!

 

[sawracr]

Neat figures Rodger, no load RPMs don't tell the story, as Russ pointed out there are many thing to consider to get the final equation. When you feel Horsepower its got some torque! If you run 16 thou. on your rakers you don't need much torque! To many varibles to say anyone person is wrong, but you can see by Rodgers figures that Torque is a wash at 13,000, its all down hill from there. Most unmodified 346s will not four stroke in the cut at 13,500 and you can push hard.

 

[jokers]

Hi Jon, I was running my 346 all morning, left the bigger saws in the truck. So anyway, after warming up my saw and noting that it was "4 stroking" a little, unloaded, I tached it using my Stihl pocket tach and lo and behold it was running nearly 14,800 rpm and it was cutting good. So just out of curiosity I kept richening the mixture until I hit the stop on the adjuster, rpms now 14,230, and started cutting. The saw never realy cleaned up or screamed, even for a second when it wasn`t in the cut, but it does allow for my forceful handling in the cut. Significantly more torque, but even small changes are apparent on a saw like the 346. But now I`m afraid I`m going to get a carbon buildup, I`m goin to have to watch it very carefully for a few weeks before I`m convinced. Not trying to open a can of worms, but would I be better off with a full synthetic oil to minimize carbon if I am goin to run this rich? BTW, wish I had a photographer handy, I was throwing a pretty impressive stream of chips off the 20" bar in a 36" maple butt log. I never cease to be amazed by this little saw, it`s a real gem. Can`t wait to see how my Greffardized MS260 Pro is going to stack up, if it has more jam than the 346, it will be a truly amazing saw. Thanks, Russ

 

[bwalker]

Two point to consider. Two stroke fuel requirments change alot with load. The a/f ratio that makes peak hp will also produce less torque than a slightly richer one .
Russ, i wouldnt worry about the richer jetting causing buildup. low speed jetting is often rtesponsible for build up as the engine does not have enough heat at low throttle settings to burn of the oil completely. At wfo throttle this really isnt a issue, although you will have a cleaner engine with some synthetics.