Ruined a good chain yesterday

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I figure that I can salvage the saw chain but I am going to lose over half of its usefulness just getting it sharp again.

I was given a chain that was run against brick or cement and looked like that. You just need to do exactly like you said, slowly eat away until your top edge is true again without overheating the cutter.
It's a drag when that kind of thing happens.

But you are correct, if you want to spend a little time, you can still save about half the chain's life. This is one of those places where a grinder shines over a file!

Philbert
 
Unless you want to spend an hour with a file would not hurt to pop it into a grinder. Every now and then I suck up a rock in a good size cut. Even when every thing seems right sparks fly so you go on. Every saw I have has at least three spare chains. Thanks
 
Bricks, fence posts, screws and nails are bad enough but a chainsaw chain? Oh the irony!

I cut down a junk Sassafras tree in my front yard last year, got it all chopped up and then wanted to level off the stump close to the ground. All of a sudden sparks flying and bang bang bang, found a few nails stuck in there 3-4" from ground level, went right through them all. 24" LGX chain had about 1 cord on it ain't been the same since.
 
You guys might get a kick out of what happened to me this past Wednesday. I was trying to remove a large round that was wedged between two large logs. It had been there for about eight months. Its diameter was so close to the gap between the two logs, I decided to simply use the chainsaw to remove some bark on either side in order to free it up.

That was a bad decision because dirt had accumulated there as well, packed into the bark. The chain lasted about 20 seconds. Yes, the round did free up so that I could move it out, but there was no edge left on any of the cutters. I had to switch to another chain to noodle cut the big round in half and quarter it.

In my book, dirt is still the number one enemy of the chainsaw chain and ranks right alongside rocks, gravel, sand, nails, etc. The ground awaits any chainsaw chain that comes near it.
 
In my book, dirt is still the number one enemy of the chainsaw chain . . .
Not surprising when you consider the basis of 'sand'paper - a common abrasive.

We use abrasives to sharpen chains, by removing metal - makes sense that it can take that edge right off, the same way.

Philbert
 
The logs in the original pics have a lot of dirt in the bark from being skidded. A technique I learned from my logger buddies is plunge cutting through the center and then coming up with the bar throwing all the dirt and chips away from the powerhead. Sure you are still cutting the dirt, but it doesn't knock the edge off near as quick.

A maxim on finding metal in the wood you are cutting is exponentially correlated to how new the chain is. Old ragged out chains never find metal. Take one out of the box and voila! METAL:dumb2::wtf::confused:

A few years off I started off the season with 3 new chains on different saws. 1st one hit embedded barb wire on the 3rd cut.:angry: The 2nd hit a stone laying on the ground on the other side of a log.:cry: The 3rd was a pile of logs laying in a field. Cut into the 1st one and see sparks.o_O This log was a foot off the ground.:wtf: Come to find out all the other logs were pile around a single large rock that was pointed. The cut I made was perfectly on top of the sole rock.:innocent:
 
I picked up 3 bars being clearanced and some 10 dollar loops of chain all 18 inch 3/8 .050 for may J-red 2255 because I was going to be cutting in an old barn yard and fence row , 2 years and I hit nothing , but I know the instant I put the 20 inch bar back on with more expensive chain.....

the first nail I found with my Stihl was in the middle of a huge oak , ripped 7 cutters off the chain no coming back from that , I had one chain that got to taste the road cutting a tree over the road , that took some filing but did live to cut another day.

the way those 3 dollar bars are going I may be cutting on them for years with 10 dollar chain loops , the 18 on the 2255 there is no slowing it down a cutting machine if I can get all the way through the log , some still need a larger bar.
 
. . . ripped 7 cutters off the chain no coming back from that . . .
One advantage of always running the same brand / size / type of chain is being able to recombine sections. E.g. save the rest of that chain for donor parts, or combine with another trashed loop to make one good one.

However, if you keep finding $10 loops of chain, that might not be worth your time / effort.

Philbert
 
I had one the other day that was a bear to split. It probably took me 5-6 Try’s to get it in half. There was a lag bolt that was over a foot long inside the tree.
 
One advantage of always running the same brand / size / type of chain is being able to recombine sections. E.g. save the rest of that chain for donor parts, or combine with another trashed loop to make one good one.

However, if you keep finding $10 loops of chain, that might not be worth your time / effort.

Philbert

it looks like the cheapest I can get them now is 14 dollars , I must have caught a good sale a few years ago to get them for 10 a loop.
 
it looks like the cheapest I can get them now is 14 dollars , I must have caught a good sale a few years ago to get them for 10 a loop.
Depends on the quality of the chain too. Bailey's has their WoodlandPro chain (usually Carlton) on sale: 10 loops for $100 a few times a year. That big box store in your state, where 'You Save BIG Money', actually has good everyday prices on Oregon chain. And when they have 11% off, it can be a really good deal. Different if it is 'no-brand' chain.

Philbert
 
Woodland pro is about all I buy that is what I was getting for 10 or a little more per loop I like it, it cuts well.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
 
I get all my logs from a residential tree service so I get crap l im ke this quite a bit. I hit a plant hanger in one this year and found this when splitting.
96bab3d67ad26c6ff282cfe672a9d041.jpg
 

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