Running 16 inch on 200T

[Slvrmple72]

Anybody else running 16 inch bar on 200T? All the guys around here stay at 14".

 

[tree md]

I'm running 14" on mine but I have seen many use a 16". I have a 16" on my 260 and use it once I get into bigger wood.

 

[tomtrees58]

I RUN 16 ON them

 

[Grouchy old man]

16 on mine too.

 

[Scrat]

Anybody else running 16 inch bar on 200T? All the guys around here stay at 14".

I have used a buddies with a 16" and it cuts great, I just added a 200T to my arsenal a week ago and had it set up with a 16" bar from the dealer. I just used yesterday to chunk down a red oak till I ran out of bar length and it did fine. Of course this saw isn't even broken in yet, they seem to wake up after 5-10 tanks, so I am optimistic it will get even better. I guess it really depends on your needs. I have always used Husky's as my top handle saw and wanted a non biased opinion of which is better, a very over debated issue, so I got the 200T to compare myself.

 

[tree MDS]

I have 14" bars on my 200's. I've been meaning to switch up to 16" forever though. I'm hoping I can get a 16" composit bar (if they make one), balance it out some. It seems like the 14" never wants to finish the other side of the box from a nice safe cutting position, or something.. hard to put my finger on it, but it's just off.

 

[tree md]

I thought about going to a 16 as well but usually by the time I get into wood that size I am chunking and would rather have a rear handle for that. Plus I like to have a little more power when I get into wood that size. Seems to make the job go faster.

 

[tree MDS]

I thought about going to a 16 as well but usually by the time I get into wood that size I am chunking and would rather have a rear handle for that. Plus I like to have a little more power when I get into wood that size. Seems to make the job go faster.

I'm more thinking about switching up because of proper cut positioning (getting your body away from the piece/cut), than having the length for bigger wood. I use my husky's for real wood.

 

[tree md]

I have been tossing around the idea of getting a couple of husky saws. I've been looking at the husky 338T as I am planing on buying a new climbing saw pretty soon and wouldn't mind having a 346XP... Only thing is all of my saws are Stihl. I really don't think it would make a lot of sense to start buying huskies. Every climber that I have talked to who is using the 338 is raving about it though. Kinda has me curious.

 

[Chud]

I have always used 16 on mine.

 

[chad556]

I have run both sizes. Regular 16 and 14 and also a 14" E-lite bar. I would say unless you work with smaller trees the 16" is the way to go. That extra 2" is surprisingly useful without being overly bulky or awkward. I always use the 16 now when I have a choice From my experience but never having run one I would say the the 16" E-lite would be ideal because the 16" is slightly nose heavy to me. Pricey though.

 

[TreeAce]

16 on my 200Ts. I think its a good set up. I also keep a 260 with a 20 inch handy. I do kinda wish i had went with 18 inch on the 260 though. I also freely admit to using a 192 for trimming sometimes. Mostly when the 200T is str8 over kill. A 192 and a silky makes for some enjoyable trimming IMO.

 

[TreEmergencyB]

12 on mine, chain speed is your friend. If i need more bar i need more saw, who wants to beat up there 600$ climbing saw cutting through dead oak thats 14" in diameter.

 

[Blakesmaster]

12 on mine, chain speed is your friend. If i need more bar i need more saw, who wants to beat up there 600$ climbing saw cutting through dead oak thats 14" in diameter.

I'd like to try a 12 inch bar on my 200 for ####s n' grins but I think the 14 is just fine and can't really see spending the money if there won't be a marked improvement in power. BTW, your bar length has almost nothing to do with your chain speed.

 

[CNBTreeTrimming]

12 on mine, chain speed is your friend. If i need more bar i need more saw, who wants to beat up there 600$ climbing saw cutting through dead oak thats 14" in diameter.

Yeah good way to over heat one and melt the side cover.don't ask how I figured that out but the 14" dead oak is exactly what did it.

 

[ipkyss]

I use a 16 for crane work and pine trees. Its a little tip heavy. 14" for everything else, but I also have three 200's in the truck so no swapping the bars.

 

[TreEmergencyB]

I'd like to try a 12 inch bar on my 200 for ####s n' grins but I think the 14 is just fine and can't really see spending the money if there won't be a marked improvement in power. BTW, your bar length has almost nothing to do with your chain speed.

you dont think less distance to travel wont improve chain speed? Longer bar longer chain longer cycle, shorter bar means more revolutions of the chain to me that = faster cutting/chain speed

BTW: i bought mine with a 12" RIPS let me tell you i can notice the difference between mine and my co-workers with a 16 on it

 

[Blakesmaster]

you dont think less distance to travel wont improve chain speed? Longer bar longer chain longer cycle, shorter bar means more revolutions of the chain to me that = faster cutting/chain speed

BTW: i bought mine with a 12" RIPS let me tell you i can notice the difference between mine and my co-workers with a 16 on it

The sprocket is still spinning the same speed regardless of the bar length. The advantage of a shorter bar is in the power because there is less friction and weight from the shorter chain.

 

[imagineero]

12" on mine too. A lot of guys in Aus run 12" or 14" max, even 14" is kind of not that common. Nobody runs 16" over here. I don't know if it's the harder wood here, or the smaller penises stateside, but it just doesnt happen

The 12" is more than enough to satisfy, and it gives you a bit more confidence in residential work to pop branches off where you need them to go. Some guys say that the 14 or 16 gives you a bit of extra reach, but to me that's just bad practice right there. You don't want to be out at the end of some awful limb, straining and reaching on a top handle saw with an extra long bar, everything hanging in the balance and using the part of the bar most prone to kickback. Rig properly, climb properly. Get yourself in a safe position and cut safe. Having that extra long bar will only tempt you to do things you know you shouldn't, to save an extra 30 seconds!

Same story with big wood. Over here a 200T is $1500, and we go through them at about the same rate you guys do. When it's getting to the point I cant get through barrel/limbs with a 12" bar, it's time to step it up a notch. My next size up rear handled saw has a 16" bar, and the next one up a 20". I want to have the smallest saw I can up in the tree, and in that sense it's kind of tempting to put a bigger bar on the 200t, but lets get real here... it's time for a bigger saw!

Shaun

 

[Scrat]

I have been tossing around the idea of getting a couple of husky saws. I've been looking at the husky 338T as I am planing on buying a new climbing saw pretty soon and wouldn't mind having a 346XP... Only thing is all of my saws are Stihl. I really don't think it would make a lot of sense to start buying huskies. Every climber that I have talked to who is using the 338 is raving about it though. Kinda has me curious.

Tree Md,
I run both Huskys and Stihl, I am not brand loyal rather tool loyal...the one that gets the job done best. I run a 334T which is the less expensive version of the 338XPT and have done a muffler mod. It has run flawlessly since 07. The 200T is brand new and really hasn't broken in yet to give a truely fair evaluation on power. I can comment that the ergonomics on the Husky are definately superior. As for the 346XP it is an awesome saw, I have not run a 260 so I can't comment other than if it is anything like my MS460 it is probably great. The new MS261CQ model is almost a pound and a half heavier (12.3lb/3.75hp)than the Husky 346XP (11.0lb/3.7hp) so you can get a Husky 357XP (12.1lb/4.4hp) and increase hp from 3.75 to 4.4 hp for the same weight. I believe both outfits make great saws which give you many options.