Running 16 inch on 200T
- Thread starter Slvrmple72
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But the chain aint!
Blakesmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
You're right...kinda. I made a picture!
Imagine the smallest circle as your sprocket/axle. As you can see in the first two pictures the axle will affect how fast the rim moves on the outer edge in a conventional setup on a car. In the second two pictures you see how it affects a chain. Yes, the chain will go around more times (faster) with the smaller one but it is not moving your teeth or cutting any faster. For that to take place your axle needs to be in the middle like in the first 2 pics.
View attachment 215106
Formula for Chain Speed Calculation
Take chain pitch and multiply x two.
Multiply above number by number of teeth on sprocket of saw.
Multiply that number by saw RPM. The number you get will be chain speed in inches per minute. To convert to feet divide by 12. To convert to feet per second divide by 720.
Example: 3/8 chain, with 7 tooth sprocket.
3/8 x 2=3/4 or 0.75
0.75 x 7 (number of teeth on sprocket) = 5.25.
5.25 x 12,000 (saw RPM) = 63,000 inches per minute.
63,000 divided by 12 = 5,250 feet per minute, 63,000 divided by 720 = 87.50 feet per second.
Got more questions about pro saw chain speed? Call or stop in.
Take chain pitch and multiply x two.
Multiply above number by number of teeth on sprocket of saw.
Multiply that number by saw RPM. The number you get will be chain speed in inches per minute. To convert to feet divide by 12. To convert to feet per second divide by 720.
Example: 3/8 chain, with 7 tooth sprocket.
3/8 x 2=3/4 or 0.75
0.75 x 7 (number of teeth on sprocket) = 5.25.
5.25 x 12,000 (saw RPM) = 63,000 inches per minute.
63,000 divided by 12 = 5,250 feet per minute, 63,000 divided by 720 = 87.50 feet per second.
Got more questions about pro saw chain speed? Call or stop in.
Last edited:
Cool!
My 200T runs at "a mile a minute".
Oops. I might need to count the teeth on the sprocket.
My 200T runs at "a mile a minute".
Oops. I might need to count the teeth on the sprocket.
imagineero
Addicted to ArboristSite
A lot of guys in aus run the 12" bars. What I run on mine is actually the 12" .043 gauge bar made for pole saws. If you run a couple chains on them with the pole saw, then .050 runs on them fine. They're a little narrower than the standard 12", and smaller diameter tip. Lots of guys seem to like the lite 12" bar because it's flexy. You can twist it easily, and it springs back.
I used to think that 12" was the way to go. I always thought that proper work positioning and not running a saw way out past your reach, then adding an extra 4" of bar to the saw and cutting with the kickback prone tip was dangerous, and put unnecessary strain on your body. I even used to think that getting that last little bit of power from the saw was good for making all kinds of jump cuts and chasing wood off the tree, giving you a little extra finesse. I used to change up to a bigger saw when I needed more than 12" of bar.
All that is behind me now. I compared my 12" bar to a 16" bar I couldnt help but notice the 16" bar was bigger, and I felt a little embarassed about my small one. Life was really great with that 16" bar, everything was way better. Until I noticed an 18" bar one day. That was way better! I could reach even further than the 16" guys, and the nose was only just a little heavier. But then I found a 20" bar.
Well, this year I'm doing things different. I'm selling off all my saws except one 200t and one 660. It's a 2 saw plan that covers everything. The 200T has a 36" bar on it. I Know it sounds like a lot of bar to run on a 35cc saw, but I pulled the spark arrester out. You get used to the balance pretty quick. I use the 200t for everything from pruning small fruit trees and shrubs right up to felling trees 6' in diameter. The small dogs let you really take advantage of the full length of the bar, and the reach is awesome. I hardly need to limbwalk anymore. It's not quite as fast as a bigger saw, but when you look at the time you save not swapping saws, it works out about even. Plus the 200T is really light. I'm putting a 6' bar on the 660 to do trees from 6' to 12'. I'm not going to do trees over 12' anymore.
The other benefit that you might not have thought of is that it makes it really easy on my groundies too. Instead of all those confusing numbers, I just say 'give me a saw' and they can ask 'the big one, or the little one?'. Some of the smarter guys work out which saw I want without even asking!
Shaun
I used to think that 12" was the way to go. I always thought that proper work positioning and not running a saw way out past your reach, then adding an extra 4" of bar to the saw and cutting with the kickback prone tip was dangerous, and put unnecessary strain on your body. I even used to think that getting that last little bit of power from the saw was good for making all kinds of jump cuts and chasing wood off the tree, giving you a little extra finesse. I used to change up to a bigger saw when I needed more than 12" of bar.
All that is behind me now. I compared my 12" bar to a 16" bar I couldnt help but notice the 16" bar was bigger, and I felt a little embarassed about my small one. Life was really great with that 16" bar, everything was way better. Until I noticed an 18" bar one day. That was way better! I could reach even further than the 16" guys, and the nose was only just a little heavier. But then I found a 20" bar.
Well, this year I'm doing things different. I'm selling off all my saws except one 200t and one 660. It's a 2 saw plan that covers everything. The 200T has a 36" bar on it. I Know it sounds like a lot of bar to run on a 35cc saw, but I pulled the spark arrester out. You get used to the balance pretty quick. I use the 200t for everything from pruning small fruit trees and shrubs right up to felling trees 6' in diameter. The small dogs let you really take advantage of the full length of the bar, and the reach is awesome. I hardly need to limbwalk anymore. It's not quite as fast as a bigger saw, but when you look at the time you save not swapping saws, it works out about even. Plus the 200T is really light. I'm putting a 6' bar on the 660 to do trees from 6' to 12'. I'm not going to do trees over 12' anymore.
The other benefit that you might not have thought of is that it makes it really easy on my groundies too. Instead of all those confusing numbers, I just say 'give me a saw' and they can ask 'the big one, or the little one?'. Some of the smarter guys work out which saw I want without even asking!
Shaun
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
A handsaw has to be faster then that 200 pushing that bar.
tree md
Addicted to ArboristSite
Like I mentioned at the beginning of this thread, I really like the 14" bar on my climbing saw. I started out climbing with a Stihl 028 super with an 18" bar and would use it throughout most removals. That was many moons ago and I'm glad someone showed me a better way. I don't see anything wrong with using a larger bar but using the lightest power to weight ratio really saves a lot of energy and saves your body as well.
Case in point: My 260 went down over the Summer and the only replacement I could find was a 261. I opted to wait until I could find a 260 or get mine rebuilt. So I started having to use the 361 mostly on the ground and in the tree when I needed a bigger saw. Then about 2 months ago my 044 went down and I had to start using the 660 on all of my big wood on the ground and in the tree. I started to notice that my shoulders would hurt at night sometimes making me wake up and toss and turn. I really didn't put 2 and 2 together until I had to work the next morning and pick up where I left off bucking a large log with the 660. As soon as I put the 660 in wood and started cutting I could feel the pain in my shoulder. It was crystal clear to me at that point how much using the right sized saw for the job really saves your body. Thankfully I have got all of my saws back up and running now so I am not having to use a saw that is too large for the job and wearing my body out. I doubt it matters much if you only cut occasionally but if you are cutting everyday for a living using the right sized saw for the job will save your body and give you longevity.
Case in point: My 260 went down over the Summer and the only replacement I could find was a 261. I opted to wait until I could find a 260 or get mine rebuilt. So I started having to use the 361 mostly on the ground and in the tree when I needed a bigger saw. Then about 2 months ago my 044 went down and I had to start using the 660 on all of my big wood on the ground and in the tree. I started to notice that my shoulders would hurt at night sometimes making me wake up and toss and turn. I really didn't put 2 and 2 together until I had to work the next morning and pick up where I left off bucking a large log with the 660. As soon as I put the 660 in wood and started cutting I could feel the pain in my shoulder. It was crystal clear to me at that point how much using the right sized saw for the job really saves your body. Thankfully I have got all of my saws back up and running now so I am not having to use a saw that is too large for the job and wearing my body out. I doubt it matters much if you only cut occasionally but if you are cutting everyday for a living using the right sized saw for the job will save your body and give you longevity.
...
All that is behind me now. I compared my 12" bar to a 16" bar ...
Well, this year I'm doing things different. I'm selling off all my saws except one 200t ...
Shaun
You sure went to a lot of work just to be a bit sarcastic. Good effort!
Does that bar actually fit the little 200, or does it just "look" mounted on the saw?
imagineero
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm glad somebody got it ;-)
It wasnt really much work, I was trueing all my bars so they were all off the saws and I had the camera sitting there for the RDR chain review so I snapped one off. Standard mount bars wont fit on the small mount saws, they only have one bar nut and nothing lines up oiler/tensioner/sprocket etc. Looks about right though
Shaun
David (saltas)
Addicted to ArboristSite
Shaun
I was reading your post thinking wtf and it just got more and more ridiculous.
I was thinking it is too early for april fools day
Any how there is a guy wanting help to quote tree removal in a caravan park, you might like to give him 2 cents worth, I remeber you posting how you quote a couple of months back
I was reading your post thinking wtf and it just got more and more ridiculous.
I was thinking it is too early for april fools day
Any how there is a guy wanting help to quote tree removal in a caravan park, you might like to give him 2 cents worth, I remeber you posting how you quote a couple of months back
imagineero
Addicted to ArboristSite
Shaun
I was reading your post thinking wtf and it just got more and more ridiculous.
I was thinking it is too early for april fools day
Any how there is a guy wanting help to quote tree removal in a caravan park, you might like to give him 2 cents worth, I remeber you posting how you quote a couple of months back
I guess it would have been funnier to just leave it and see how many people agreed.... I guess there would have been a few ;-)
Just done the whole 'help out a quoter' again few days ago. Here's the link;
http://www.arboristsite.com/arborist-101/189278-2.htm#post3371940
I'm thinking I should just put my quote sheet up with written instructions and be done with it
Shaun
alonfn4
ArboristSite Member
Yup I am running a 16"
Its a little nose heavy but your wrists get used to it. I use it for the extra reach as it can come in very handy at times.
Its a little nose heavy but your wrists get used to it. I use it for the extra reach as it can come in very handy at times.
Saw Dust Smoken
ArboristSite Operative
16
One 200T with 16 bar. Used that all day today. The other 200t with 14 bar. Never used a 12" bar.
One 200T with 16 bar. Used that all day today. The other 200t with 14 bar. Never used a 12" bar.
the Aerialist
Addicted to ArboristSite
Been running a 16" E light composite bar on my 200T ...
I recently bought a Stihl E light composite bar. They claim 30% reduction in weight and on the saw the balance is perfect. The idea was to have a bit more length to chunk down trunk sections before having a bigger saw sent up. I'm surprised that the extra 2" of reach is quite noticeable. I took down a large Pine yesterday and the additional reach was very helpful also when it came to the trunk chunking' I was able to do it all with the 200T. With a 14" bar I would have had to move around to cut through or have a bigger saw sent up. It has saved me time and effort so I like it, but it's kind of costly.
I recently bought a Stihl E light composite bar. They claim 30% reduction in weight and on the saw the balance is perfect. The idea was to have a bit more length to chunk down trunk sections before having a bigger saw sent up. I'm surprised that the extra 2" of reach is quite noticeable. I took down a large Pine yesterday and the additional reach was very helpful also when it came to the trunk chunking' I was able to do it all with the 200T. With a 14" bar I would have had to move around to cut through or have a bigger saw sent up. It has saved me time and effort so I like it, but it's kind of costly.
limbwalker54
ArboristSite Operative
.....Yep......opcorn:
opcorn:
arborjockey
ArboristSite Guru
Wait tell u run an 18" . Even better no more reaching out. Close cuts on thick trunk trees. I don't even know how guys run a 14. Must have some little trees where they're at.
mattfr12
The Bulldog
Or use a bigger saw? 200t is a good saw for what Is intended for.
arborjockey
ArboristSite Guru
I assumed for trimming.
I read the forum intro but Im not actually talking about the 200t. Not a fan of that thing. I am talking about using a 18" bar on a trim saw. Not because I cut 18" pieces wood or 16" or 12 " I change saws if the wood is bigger then 4-5"s. Its the reach and being able to get a flush cut on a big tree.
I read the forum intro but Im not actually talking about the 200t. Not a fan of that thing. I am talking about using a 18" bar on a trim saw. Not because I cut 18" pieces wood or 16" or 12 " I change saws if the wood is bigger then 4-5"s. Its the reach and being able to get a flush cut on a big tree.
sgreanbeans
Treeaculterologist
What do you mean?
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