Nailsbeats
Addicted to ArboristSite
I would assume he is talking about being able to cut the branch collar off of a lead on a removal as to not catch on the rigging, etc....
Running 16 inch on 200T
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I would assume he is talking about being able to cut the branch collar off of a lead on a removal as to not catch on the rigging, etc....
arborjockey
ArboristSite Guru
at sgreenbeans
When the trunk of a tree gets to be so big around its almost as if your cutting a branch off a 90 degree flat surface. If you take a rope and make a circle say 3' across. Now take that 200t with a 14" bar and place the left side of the wrap around bar next to the rope. Next the tip of the bar. See the angle? It works if you go left like nascar but when you want to cut to your right you're going to leave a stub. Most important is the reaching. The longer bar save my neck,elbow, and shoulders.
When the trunk of a tree gets to be so big around its almost as if your cutting a branch off a 90 degree flat surface. If you take a rope and make a circle say 3' across. Now take that 200t with a 14" bar and place the left side of the wrap around bar next to the rope. Next the tip of the bar. See the angle? It works if you go left like nascar but when you want to cut to your right you're going to leave a stub. Most important is the reaching. The longer bar save my neck,elbow, and shoulders.
mattfr12
The Bulldog
I read through it twice I'm lost also if you don't need all 18" of bar why use it.
I run 14" and think that a 14 baried in oak will put it to the test. After that I go to a 260 with n 18 and so on.
tree md
Addicted to ArboristSite
My saws are configured as such:
192: 14" (used on the ground now for light limbing)
200: 14" (used on the majority of my removals and all prunes larger than handsaw need)
260: 16" (used on the ground as the main limbing saw and occasionally in the tree when doing crane work and bypassing the 200 entirely)
361: 20" (used on the ground for as big as I can get away with. Same in tree)
044: 25" (used on the ground and in the tree. this is my main ground saw which sees the most action)
660: 32" and 36" (my heaviest ground saw. Used for flush cutting stumps and bucking when needed, as well as in the tree as needed)
When I am climbing I will generally only change over saws one time. This means I will go from the 200 to the next largest saw I need to complete the work in the tree. Occasionally I will start out with the 260 and then go to the next biggest if I am doing crane work or swinging big leads from jump street. I very rarely need to go to the 660 (that is here, I had to use it on a daily basis when working an area with larger trees) except for when I am flush cutting here. I very rarely have a need for a larger saw than the 660. I have needed an 880 with 5' bar for one flush cut I had to make here and luckily have a friend who let me use his. When I first started out on my own I used an 028 super with an 18" bar which doubled for climbing and ground duty. I no longer even have an 18" bar in my line up. I'm glad I have moved on past those days and can use the right sized tool for whatever job I encounter these days. Different regions will have different requirements for saw needs.
192: 14" (used on the ground now for light limbing)
200: 14" (used on the majority of my removals and all prunes larger than handsaw need)
260: 16" (used on the ground as the main limbing saw and occasionally in the tree when doing crane work and bypassing the 200 entirely)
361: 20" (used on the ground for as big as I can get away with. Same in tree)
044: 25" (used on the ground and in the tree. this is my main ground saw which sees the most action)
660: 32" and 36" (my heaviest ground saw. Used for flush cutting stumps and bucking when needed, as well as in the tree as needed)
When I am climbing I will generally only change over saws one time. This means I will go from the 200 to the next largest saw I need to complete the work in the tree. Occasionally I will start out with the 260 and then go to the next biggest if I am doing crane work or swinging big leads from jump street. I very rarely need to go to the 660 (that is here, I had to use it on a daily basis when working an area with larger trees) except for when I am flush cutting here. I very rarely have a need for a larger saw than the 660. I have needed an 880 with 5' bar for one flush cut I had to make here and luckily have a friend who let me use his. When I first started out on my own I used an 028 super with an 18" bar which doubled for climbing and ground duty. I no longer even have an 18" bar in my line up. I'm glad I have moved on past those days and can use the right sized tool for whatever job I encounter these days. Different regions will have different requirements for saw needs.
arborjockey
ArboristSite Guru
:chatter: WITH NO PICS
sorry guys. dont lose your tension span. I'll clarify with pics later.
sorry guys. dont lose your tension span. I'll clarify with pics later.
arborjockey
ArboristSite Guru
Oky doky
tree md
Addicted to ArboristSite
OK son, you're losing me here... Now what exactly is it you are trying to get across??? You said you don't smoke weed... I got high hopes for you.
Don't drink and draw. Someone could get hurt.
mattfr12
The Bulldog
Well it's a good thing your not an artist for a living, but then again it seems like the worse a painting looks the more it's worth.
Still lost tho I see the circle and is that a chainsaw you drew.
I gave him "sketch rep". LOL!!
Maybe you could add some discriptive labeling to your pic to help further clarify? Just a suggestion.
I understood the pic quite clearly. There are none so blind, as those who don't want to see.
The 200t has a boxy little engine. It doesn't trim close to a large trunk on the left side of the saw, particularly with a short bar. If you spend much time working in bigger trees, you might prefer a longer bar.
It's that simple.
If you just like as light a saw as humanly possible, and you resent the weight of an extra two or four inches of bar, then you will prefer a shorter bar. If you are one heck of tree monkey, and don't mind running around a big trunk for flush cuts, only using the right side of the saw...you will prefer the shorter bar.
If you are concerned about poor control on a top-handled saw, you will prefer the shorter bar.
If you prefer a longer bar for greater reach into tight spaces or don't mind less control while reaching further out, you will prefer the longer bar.
Geez, there is no point in bickering about preferences.
The 200t has a boxy little engine. It doesn't trim close to a large trunk on the left side of the saw, particularly with a short bar. If you spend much time working in bigger trees, you might prefer a longer bar.
It's that simple.
If you just like as light a saw as humanly possible, and you resent the weight of an extra two or four inches of bar, then you will prefer a shorter bar. If you are one heck of tree monkey, and don't mind running around a big trunk for flush cuts, only using the right side of the saw...you will prefer the shorter bar.
If you are concerned about poor control on a top-handled saw, you will prefer the shorter bar.
If you prefer a longer bar for greater reach into tight spaces or don't mind less control while reaching further out, you will prefer the longer bar.
Geez, there is no point in bickering about preferences.
Blakesmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
Turn the saw upside down and cut with the top of the bar. The ####'s the deal with you guys?
But won't it get all flooded out? and what about keeping the oil down in the crankcase, where it's needed to lubricate the bearings?? Hahahaha...
That requires cutting overhead or hanging upside down. Too much "tree monkey" for me. Then, the branch is going to fall on you.
I was thinking of putting an 18" on mine. It never occurred to me until suggested in this thread. I don't mind the weight.
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Blakesmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here, I drew you a picture.
mattfr12
The Bulldog
I couldn't figure out what he was talking about untill you Posted. I've never had a problem running them upside down.
I definitely wouldn't go to a larger bar for that. 200t is a cool saw but it's way to slow for me to be cutting wood that would require an 16-18 inch bar. 260 is pretty light. And would save you a lot of time. If you bury a 200t with 16 inches of bar in oak your talking like15 seconds a cut with a new chain or more a 260 would fall in under 10 seconds.
Here, I drew you a picture.
I'm not.
And I've run them upside down, too. When you turn them upside down, you sacrifice much more control than if you just had a longer bar. So what is the advantage?
Upside down is the last ditch effort to get to the cut, not the standby alternative to an easy cut. If it works for you, I don't really mind if you prefer cutting that way. I don't.
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arborjockey
ArboristSite Guru
When dead wooding 140'+ fir trees, 8 hrs a day I dont see running my saw upside down a 1/4-1/3 of the time:bang:. Then you dont want to go back to a shorty. Makes you feel small. I dig the reach, saves on the back .
tree md
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks for straightening that out David.
Thank God I've got saws of all shapes and sizes (most of the Stihl line up) and can use whatever saw/bar combination I choose. But I certainly don't know it all and I'm willing to learn from the new generation. Some of them sure do seem to have a lot going on.
OK so AJ, carry on son, give us a little more in depth explanation...
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