Sachs Dolmar 112

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woodchip

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I have had the sachs dolmar 112 for about 20 years. I use it occasionally to down trees and chop them up into firewood. Just recently a wind storm took down a oak and part of a cherry so now I have to clean them up. The tree crew that took off the oak from the corner of the house was due to come back for cleanup and buck a couple more trees down. So far I haven't seen them. Soooo... first off I'm looking to get a newer saw (maybe) but first I'd like some well seasoned imput.

1) How does the sd112 compare to the newer stihl. I wanted to get a longer bladed saw so I don't have to cut the larger base of the trunk by cutting from two sides. I was looking at the stihl 310, but while the 310 has a slightly larger motor the hp is much less (sd has 5 hp; stihl has 4 hp)

2) This brings me to the next question.
The stihl 310, with less hosspower, is rated to use up to a 24" bar. Yet the sd112 with more hp is only rated for a 18" bar max. So I'm a little confused here. My original thinking was to get another longer bar for the sd112 but it is not rated for such.

So as not to be too long winded I'll stop here and await your learned responses. :blob2:
 
Howdy woodchip-

Often manufacturers will conservatively rate a saw's recommended bar length strictly for longevity reasons. As a lot of these well experienced guys here in this forum will tell you, they run either longer or shorter bars than recommended from the factory. Your Sachs 112 is a surprisingly strong saw for its displacement. The power company here has a lot of the older Sachs and Jonsered saws left from that era and they are strong runners.

I personally don't like the Stihl 310. It's a "consumer" type model with a plastic crankcase and a integral cylinder/mixing area that's separate from the case body just like a Husky 350. Difference being that the Stihl doesn't seem to get the power output or chain speed. The saw tuners here can shed some light on that?
 
sachs

I would definitely stick to the pro line of Stihl. After running the Sachs, I think you would not be happy. The consumer line works great for the weekend warriors, but if you are used to a pro saw, stick with it.
 
if i were looking for another mid-range saw for stuff in the 16-24'' size (with 20-24'' being ocasional) i would look at the Stihl 036 Pro or the husky 357xp both w/20'' bar and chisle chain. now if you want a large saw for 24''+ then i would look at the stihl ms440 mag or the stihl ms460 mag or a husky 372xp with a 24''-28'' bar and full comp chisle chain just my two cents worth:angel:
 
Thanks for the imput thus far. Now I've read a number of threads on comparing the various stihl models. I've talked to the repair guy at the local stihl dealership. When I ask what the difference between the 310 and the 26 are, other than a electric start on the 26 pro, no difference seems to be forth coming. I ask specifically about internal engine parts but supposedly no difference there either. So just what differentiates quality wise between a 26, 29, 31 or a 36?

If its possible to use a longer bar on my sd112, where would I turn to in order to determine this? I think Sachs Dolmar was bought out by Makita and I don't know if I'd get a good answer there. Would Oregon bars be of any help? Suggestions please :confused:
 
Thanks Lobo...sent them a email.

I found that Griffiths Beerens makes a 24" blade for the sd112 in their super pro grade. Is this company qualty?
 
I have no personal experience with GB, but a few members here have posted that their products were OK.

LOL :)
 
The 310 is a completely different saw from the 026 and doesn't share any parts that I'm aware of. It's a consumer saw that is designed more for price than performance or durability. The 029 is basically a slightly smaller model of the 310. I bet Fish will be more than happy to fill you in on the details. :)

The 036 is the next pro saw up in size from the 026. Similar design but on a bigger scale. Oh, the 026 Pro just offers a decompression valve, not electric start. I think that last saws with ES were the Mac X-10E series from the '70s.

Finally, that Sachs Dolmar of yours should be good for only a 20" bar with 3/8" chain. Where'd you get the 5HP figure? Your saw is rated at 2.2KW. That's more like 3 US HP.
 
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John, 5 hp is on a sticker on the inside of the handle. Says: 5 hp sae. SAE I always thought meant Society of Automotive Engineers. I'll check the manual later today.
Manual only lists a 18" bar but I was interested that Griffiths sells a 24" bar for my model 112. In the litigious society we live in, I'm surprised a company would offer a product that wouldn't work.or more importantly be a liability.

As to electric start for the Stihls, I got that out of their most recent catalog.
 
Something strange's going on here. According to the spec sheets, the 112 is rated at 2.2KW or 5HP SAE. That doesn't work. 2.2KW is 2.9 HP. For a roughly 3 cid engine like the 112 the 2.9 figure is correct. A 5HP chainsaw is going to be more like 4-5 cid, depending on the model.

Mike Acres, any idea what's up?

The 24" bar will work, but only if you were doing softwood. A bar that long is a lot of load for a saw that size. 20" for more general cutting is usually the limit. That's what I have on my Stihl 032 (same size saw).

Can you quote the passage about electric start from Stihl's catalog? The 026 Pro's extra features are supposed to be a decomp valve, and the "IntelliCarb".
 
There are some more q?'s I'd like to ask...That 3 cube Sachs could pull a 24" bar w/ skip chain if you were willing to baby it along...but you'd want to be very careful not to wreck the clutch.
Probably OK for just 1 tree. After you get this tree taken care of will you have further use for the long bar? If you really want to use a 24" bar regularly, then you need to go to a 4-5 Cu in saw, and the best bang for the buck in that size (new) is the 971 EFCO or John Deere branded equivalent model...usually under $600.

You can probably find a used saw that will serve for less, but you still have to ask yourself if it's worth it. What's up w/ the tree service not coming back to finish the job?
 
John, the manual for the 112 says:

kw=2.2; ps/din hp=3.0; ps/sae hp=5.0

As to the electric start for the stihl 260, I am in error...catalog says"ElastoStart".
Sorry my speed reading gave me a mental image of "ElectricStart". :angel:

Eyolf, haven't heard much on the John Deere saws...whats your opinion.
 
Hi woodchip,

2.2 kw = 2.951 hp SAE (Society Automotive Engineers)

DIN is strictly a German based measurement.

Your tag should have read:
kw=2.2; ps/DIN hp=5.0; ps/SAEhp=3.0

5 hp SAE = 3.73 kw

Sorry but that being the case about the maximum length you can efficiently run is 20" maximum. :eek:
 
Lobo, those ratings come right out of the manual. I always thought the Germans were sticklers for correct detail?
 
Hi woodchip,

No matter how you do the calculations 2.2 kw = 2.951 hp.

That is probably why the recommended bar length is 18" in your manual.

Sorry, :Eye: :Eye:
 
Dolmars reply to my email:

You can use the 24" guide bar but it is not recommended from us
because of loss of power.
Best regards

DOLMAR GmbH

Bernhard Giersch
 
I'm missing something here. You have a sachs -dolmar you are pleased with, had it a long time etc... Why aren't you looking at a new Dolmar? Theyr'e still made in Germany by the same factory as always. I have 2 and a 3rd one on the way.... Great saws.
Terrific power to weight ratio's. www.dolmar.com. Check em out.
Steve
 
django, Your linky doesn't work on my comp. I sent a email to the importer down in tx. to see where the nearest dealer in michigan is. One of the Reasons I'm leaning toward Stihl is there are 3 dealers within 20 min of where I live. If I can find a Dolmar dealer near me I will most certainly take a look (and find out why my saw is listed at 5hp. ;)
 
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