Jacob. I just measured a piston ring and
you are correct, they are 1mm thick which
is thinner than the stock ring.
Lee
Sachs Dolmar 166 complete motor rebuild
- Thread starter leeha
- Start date
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Jacob. I just measured a piston ring and
you are correct, they are 1mm thick which
is thinner than the stock ring.
Lee
Leeha, aren't you the one who posted the vid of 8 166's idleing? Now you'll have to make a vid with 10 166's running. :greenchainsaw:
sachsmo
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Me thinks Lee posted awhile back he was going for 12!
My Dodge truck has a 10 cylinder, sounds like an overgrown Datsun 240Z.
Personaly I have never heard a 12 cylinder that sounded as good as an 8.
Guess Lee needs to unload 4 (hint hint):smoking:
My Dodge truck has a 10 cylinder, sounds like an overgrown Datsun 240Z.
Personaly I have never heard a 12 cylinder that sounded as good as an 8.
Guess Lee needs to unload 4 (hint hint):smoking:
Gumnuts
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Forged...yum 
1mm rings on replated Nickasil....hmm.....lot cheaper to replace rings I guess.
1mm rings on replated Nickasil....hmm.....lot cheaper to replace rings I guess.
Forged...yum
1mm rings on replated Nickasil....hmm.....lot cheaper to replace rings I guess.
Their 1mm rings actually last a long time in a Nikasil bore. I think they're cro-moly rings, which is why they won't work in the older chrome-bore saws. I talked to a technician there once and he said the 1mm rings if fitted into a chrome bore would last about ten seconds before everything explodes.
Gumnuts
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Good to hear a vote of confidence .
What came to mind was the early 084 chrome cyls....when they changed to
Nikisil bores they used the thicker 1.5mm because the thinner as you say........
YET - Wiseco are a better quality than Stihl mass produced .
I don't know about cro-moly rings or whether Wiseco use them.
Intend to put one to work in a good cyl and see what happens if worst comes to worst and the rings turn to dust i'd consider a re-turn(lathe) to take
a thicker ring.( I have 2 good cyls and pistons with the original chrome and
2 that i will have re-done in NIK.
How do you think Lee will go on his re-chrome and new piston ?
hmm...What late model big bore saws today use 1mm cro-moly rings ?
I still have alot to learn.
Last edited:
And here is the part i have been waiting for.
I have been working with Wiseco pistons for
2 months getting a run of these made and they
arrived yesterday. These pistons are a high quality
forged piston that will with stand any abuse a chainsaw
can give them. Wiseco was the only option i had at
getting pistons for the 166 Dolmar.
Lee
:love1::love1::love1:
undertaking a rebuilt like that with NOS parts is a real joy...
Jacob, These 1mm rings are a cast ring,
And can be used in a chrome bore and
a nicasil bore. I can get chrome rings that
can be used in the nicasil bore but you can't
put a chrome ring in a chrome bore.
Lee
rickyrooster
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Lee, great thread. Very impressive saw and nice pictures. Thank you for taking the time to share your build. Rick!
Dear Lee,
had to dig out your thread, because I had to pull apart my 2nd Dolmar 166.
Different from the description (while buying more than 7 year ago) it needs major revision.
Today I removed the crank. The inner bushing of the roller bearing makes me nerveous, it is just a plain cylinder
which might come with the bearing of type NU2041E.
That means not "step" at the inner end, to prevent the crank from getting pushed to the bearing.
Seems that the one who assembled that particular saw made a major mistake ?
(glad that I finally pulled it apart completely)
At your picture, however, the inner ring is different:
Where do I get such a ring from ? Bearing Type "NJ" comes with such a ring, however, I have seen the type "NU" in various crank cases of 166.
Was it part of the original Dolmar bearing ?
I cannot find it on the IPL, it is not drawn separately.
Did they combine 2 bearings, inner ring from NJ and outer ring and rolls from type NU ?
Or is it just an NJ204E, and the outer ring of those bearings is also labelled "NU" as they might be the same ?
https://www.ekugellager.de/nj204-ec...SA&utm_term=kugellager&utm_content=Kugellager
would be glad if someone could give some information
best Chris
had to dig out your thread, because I had to pull apart my 2nd Dolmar 166.
Different from the description (while buying more than 7 year ago) it needs major revision.
Today I removed the crank. The inner bushing of the roller bearing makes me nerveous, it is just a plain cylinder
which might come with the bearing of type NU2041E.
That means not "step" at the inner end, to prevent the crank from getting pushed to the bearing.
Seems that the one who assembled that particular saw made a major mistake ?
(glad that I finally pulled it apart completely)
At your picture, however, the inner ring is different:
Where do I get such a ring from ? Bearing Type "NJ" comes with such a ring, however, I have seen the type "NU" in various crank cases of 166.
Was it part of the original Dolmar bearing ?
I cannot find it on the IPL, it is not drawn separately.
Did they combine 2 bearings, inner ring from NJ and outer ring and rolls from type NU ?
Or is it just an NJ204E, and the outer ring of those bearings is also labelled "NU" as they might be the same ?
https://www.ekugellager.de/nj204-ec...SA&utm_term=kugellager&utm_content=Kugellager
would be glad if someone could give some information
best Chris
The bearing comes with the inner race, The sleeve as you call it.
The bearing i have used it a *** bearing # NJ204E. TVP2 and is
the same type as in your second picture.
The bearing i have used it a *** bearing # NJ204E. TVP2 and is
the same type as in your second picture.
You're the 166 MAN!
All the 166's i've had apart all had the bearing i mentioned.
yes, I am just glad that the NJ204 is a standard package, still available.
And that Dolmar did not do any fancy stuff back in those days.
This is what I tried to say. Will get one or two from INA or SKF.
that was a tough one. Had the crank turned in to a special repair shop here in Germany.
When the ring was removed (took them brute force in the end), the surface of the seal was damaged too.
Solution was a sleeve, which came over the old surface. Crank seal format can stay as is (called "speedy sleeve" by SKF)
In additionto that, I asked them to "transplant" the rod, because the old one showed signs of a chemical reaction with an
odd smelling grease which I found inside the crankcase. And fortunately, I had a NOS-crank in stock, however, with broken shaft.
This is where the new rod came from.
now it is done. New bearing and rod, correct ring.
anoying saw...
cheers, Chris
When the ring was removed (took them brute force in the end), the surface of the seal was damaged too.
Solution was a sleeve, which came over the old surface. Crank seal format can stay as is (called "speedy sleeve" by SKF)
In additionto that, I asked them to "transplant" the rod, because the old one showed signs of a chemical reaction with an
odd smelling grease which I found inside the crankcase. And fortunately, I had a NOS-crank in stock, however, with broken shaft.
This is where the new rod came from.
now it is done. New bearing and rod, correct ring.
anoying saw...
cheers, Chris
