Salvage cylinder or not on old Stihl 064?

[smokey7]

Jug cleaned up pretty good. Sounds like you learned a lesson on cleaning transfer on a cylinder with power tools. The tune sounded good at times and at others it sounded a touch lean when returning to idle. Kindof had that lean bobble as i call it. Since we dont know what killed it and all of the suspect things ie jug and piston being so clean with no carbon. I would like to ease my mind with a vac and pressure test. Likely if it had a bad air leak it pribably would have burnt up within that3.6 or 3.9 hrs you said it had ran in the video. But if its a smaller leak or one that is intermittent you may be tuning around the leak. I usually tune pretty rich for milling as in atleast 1000 rpm richer. The heavy load and heat will provide complete combustion. Do you know what yoyr current carb settings are right now? Also im one of the guys that recommends 32:1 especially while milling and would say 40:1 is ok for regular firewood work. If you are stumping running a long bar 32" or bigger and cutting large rounds cut after cut and in the heat i dont feel like 40:1 is enough. I dont believe that a boutique/bike oil is so good that you can run lean mix ratios and still do the heavy duty cutting i described earlier. Oil migration at the rpms these saws run at is barely replacing what is used @ 40:1 at 50:1 they are starving for oil mostly the bearings and especially the rod bearings. At 32:1 and cutting like i described you will actually have a small puddle of oil in the crankcase which is very good while milling. Now do what you please and enjoy that saw and let us know how it all goes for the long run. Im kindof jealous of itvas id love to find a 064 or a 385/390 project saw

 

[Daniel Haglund]

Jug cleaned up pretty good. Sounds like you learned a lesson on cleaning transfer on a cylinder with power tools. The tune sounded good at times and at others it sounded a touch lean when returning to idle. Kindof had that lean bobble as i call it. Since we dont know what killed it and all of the suspect things ie jug and piston being so clean with no carbon. I would like to ease my mind with a vac and pressure test. Likely if it had a bad air leak it pribably would have burnt up within that3.6 or 3.9 hrs you said it had ran in the video. But if its a smaller leak or one that is intermittent you may be tuning around the leak. I usually tune pretty rich for milling as in atleast 1000 rpm richer. The heavy load and heat will provide complete combustion. Do you know what yoyr current carb settings are right now? Also im one of the guys that recommends 32:1 especially while milling and would say 40:1 is ok for regular firewood work. If you are stumping running a long bar 32" or bigger and cutting large rounds cut after cut and in the heat i dont feel like 40:1 is enough. I dont believe that a boutique/bike oil is so good that you can run lean mix ratios and still do the heavy duty cutting i described earlier. Oil migration at the rpms these saws run at is barely replacing what is used @ 40:1 at 50:1 they are starving for oil mostly the bearings and especially the rod bearings. At 32:1 and cutting like i described you will actually have a small puddle of oil in the crankcase which is very good while milling. Now do what you please and enjoy that saw and let us know how it all goes for the long run. Im kindof jealous of itvas id love to find a 064 or a 385/390 project saw

The carb setting is currently 1.3 turns out for the L screw and a whopping 2.5 turns for the H screw! Who knows what that means on a Chinese copy of (possibly) a Walbro WJ-67A. The only apparent problem I have with the carb is that if I let the saw sit for a long time I have to pull 10 times or so to get it started. After that it will start easily for the rest of the day, and probably the next day as well. I will try to richen the mix at idle a touch.

I would like a vaccuum and leakdown test as well. I was able to do a pressure test with the tools I had at hand and that turned out fine. I would like a MityVac kit, but for the little engine work I do it is a bit pricey.

I did learn my lesson on cleaning a cylinder with power tools. However I might just do it again because it was really painless and the result was good. By the way, I have another 064 parts saw. If you just swing by Sweden (where I am located) I'll give you a good deal on it! This 064 will probably just be used for firewood from now on. I have a Stihl 066 that I use for milling.

 

[smokey7]

Very good ill keep you in mind. Tune changing can be from the china carb or the rings breaking it. They seem to want more fuel as they seat for me. Cabers are very hard and take a long time to bed in
Jug looks good for what it is.